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You know, I don't lube very often, but when I do, I break out my 45+ years old RCBS lube pad and case lube. I gently roll a few cases over the pad. This has always worked. I don't bother about case lube. very little is used and most of that is wiped off handling the rounds. Never had a case that was sticky, even after several years. Sticky means too much lube. I'll stick with the method that has been 100% successful so far in my life.

You paid for great service--use it. Call Dillon. If they treat you like they did me, they'll send you a new measure or the part that is failing. Blue Loctite is great. Use it on any M-dies you have.

You know, it just isn't worth it. I don't care. My conversion was bad. That is all. Apple Numbers did a poor conversion. Went back, and Open Office did a good conversion.

HOGRIDER: Don't doubt you. I just don't see any on MY converted version. No complaint, except I wish it was it old .xls format so the odds of conversion errors would be smaller. Not Poster's issue, mine.

I run Hornady on my 1050s. Exactly the same as far as I can tell.

Didn't find a guns sheet. Conversion must be messed up.

If it works, OK. However... Max COL is for the industry so ammo will be safe in all guns. Make a couple of inert rounds (no powder/primer) and find out how long a COL will work in your pistol with your magazine. Per Ramshot: "SPECIAL NOTE ON CARTRIDGE OVERALL LENGTH “COL” It is important to note that the SAAMI “COL” values are for the firearms and ammunition manufacturers industry and must be seen as a guideline only. The individual reloader is free to adjust this dimension to suit their particular firearm-component-weapon combination. This parameter is determined by various dimensions such as 1) magazine length (space), 2) freebore-lead dimensions of the barrel, 3) ogive or profile of the projectile and 4) position of cannelure or crimp groove. • Always begin loading at the ‘Start Load.’" Your COL (OAL) is determined by your barrel (chamber and throat dimensions) and your gun (feed ramp) and your magazine (COL that fits magazine and when the magazine lips release the round for feeding) and the PARTICULAR bullet you are using. What worked in a pressure barrel or the lab's gun or in my gun has very little to do with what will work best in your gun. Take the barrel out of the gun. Create two inert dummy rounds (no powder or primer) at max COL and remove enough case mouth flare for rounds to chamber (you can achieve this by using a sized case—expand-and-flare it, and remove the flare just until the case "plunks" in the barrel). Drop the inert rounds in and decrease the COL until they chamber completely. This will be your "max" effective COL. I prefer to have the case head flush with the barrel hood. After this, place the inert rounds in the magazine and be sure they fit the magazine and feed and chamber. You can also do this for any chambering problems you have. Remove the barrel and drop rounds in until you find one that won't chamber. Take that round and "paint" the bullet and case black with Magic Marker or other marker. Drop round in barrel (or gage) and rotate it back-and-forth. Remove and inspect the round: 1) scratches on bullet--COL is too long 2) scratches on edge of the case mouth--insufficient crimp 3) scratches just below the case mouth--too much crimp, you're crushing the case 4) scratches on case at base of bullet--bullet seated crooked due to insufficient case expansion (not case mouth flare) or improper seating stem fit 5) scratches on case just above extractor groove--case bulge not removed during sizing. May need a bulge buster.

Where is powder ID column?

TiteGroup burns very hot and SOME coated bullet manufacturers state not to use it. I've never had an issue, other than the powder, for me, is simply not accurate compared to so many other powders.

>not seeing 180's listed at precisionbullets.com, maybe they're just showing what's in stock? Precision Bullets tend to reduce available bullet selection during tight times to try and produce the most popular bullets to sell to the most people. When times are easy, they start to open up their selection of bullets.

Hate all plated bullets I have tried. Love Precision Bullets (swaged coated lead bullets) Love ANY Zero bullet (check with Powder Valley) Love Precision Delta bullets (jacketed and as cheap as those plated "bullets") Accuracy not an issue, so order FMJ-RN or L-RN.

Ask any commercial lead bullet company and they will probably make some for you. Order .38 bullets. Order as-cast bullets and powder-coat them yourself (don't size them)

All that matters is how the bullets perform in your barrel. Strapping a Timex watch to a propeller does not mean that it will last through your lifestyle (only old folks will remember THAT). However, coating that flakes off is BAD.

No, but I don't care for the Dillon sizing dies. Much prefer Lee and Hornady as they size further down the case.

God, never seen anything like that with my 1050s. The primer system must be free moving/floating and clean. I know that is you over tighten the lock collar, you can damage the plastic primer tube tip, but I haven't seen THAT. I would call Dillon. Actually, I would pack the press up and go visit the Dillon store.

I used 1.100" and had no issues, but head space dimension varies a lot with 9x19.

Per Ramshot: "SPECIAL NOTE ON CARTRIDGE OVERALL LENGTH “COL” It is important to note that the SAAMI “COL” values are for the firearms and ammunition manufacturers industry and must be seen as a guideline only. The individual reloader is free to adjust this dimension to suit their particular firearm-component-weapon combination. This parameter is determined by various dimensions such as 1) magazine length (space), 2) freebore-lead dimensions of the barrel, 3) ogive or profile of the projectile and 4) position of cannelure or crimp groove. • Always begin loading at the ‘Start Load.’" Your COL (OAL) is determined by your barrel (chamber and throat dimensions) and your gun (feed ramp) and your magazine (COL that fits magazine and when the magazine lips release the round for feeding) and the PARTICULAR bullet you are using. What worked in a pressure barrel or the lab's gun or in my gun has very little to do with what will work best in your gun. Take the barrel out of the gun. Create two inert dummy rounds (no powder or primer) at max COL and remove enough case mouth flare for rounds to chamber (you can achieve this by using a sized case—expand-and-flare it, and remove the flare just until the case "plunks" in the barrel). Drop the inert rounds in and decrease the COL until they chamber completely. This will be your "max" effective COL with that bullet. I prefer to have the case head flush with the barrel hood. After this, place the inert rounds in the magazine and be sure they fit the magazine and feed and chamber. You can also do this for any chambering problems you have. Remove the barrel and drop rounds in until you find one that won't chamber. Take that round and "paint" the bullet and case black with Magic Marker or other marker. Drop round in barrel (or gage) and rotate it back-and-forth. Remove and inspect the round: 1) scratches on bullet--COL is too long 2) scratches on edge of the case mouth--insufficient crimp 3) scratches just below the case mouth--too much crimp, you're crushing the case 4) scratches on case at base of bullet--bullet seated crooked due to insufficient case expansion (not case mouth flare) or improper seating stem fit 5) scratches on case just above extractor groove--case bulge not removed during sizing. May need a bulge buster.

Practical Man: Very different load data for a 148gn WC and a 148gn SWC. If you can't find data for 148gn SWC, use data for next heavier bullet you CAN find data for (probably 158gn SWC). However, for just putting holes at 30 feet, you can safely start at 1 gn and work up, I suppose.

>Have your doc run a blood lead level test and make sure you get it done every year. What a load of BS. You get more exposure to lead from the primers. Hear are all the safety measures to take for casting and handling lead bullets: 1) don't eat at the bench 2) don't drink at the bench 3) don't smoke at the bench 4) don't pick you nose at the bench 5) don't rub your eyes at the bench 6) wash your hands and blow your nose after you leave the bench Note: the bench can be either the reloading bench or the shooting bench. All the same rules apply. You do wash your hands and blow your nose thoroughly after every shooting session, right? PS: no self-gratification at the bench either. I asked for a test several years ago (very early '80s, I believe) as part of standard blood work-up. Came back at 6 µg/dL, which my doctor said was the same as ZERO. This was after more than a decade of casting, reloading, and shooting competitively and recreationally, shooting at least 5000 rounds a year. A few years later (when I was 55 years old) I asked my doctor for the test again. He told be that it didn't matter at my age any more. The danger is to children as their bodies/nervous systems grow. Now, just so people learn about the "DANGERS" of lead, the CDC has a little game they play. They get blood samples from some number of children and test for blood lead levels. They then take the average and establish THAT as the new "safe" lead blood level. They are currently down to 5 µand will continue dropping it as they can. This is NOT based on any problem the child has, not based on any medical reason, not based on any science (just control)—as they say, they just consider that no child should ever be above the average lead blood level. This way, they get lots of funding to keep us "safe." Note: half of any test population will be above the average for any test.

No, but it should work just fine for light loads. Bullseye and Red Dot have been great. Don't know if much data is out, since it is primarily defined as a shotgun powder.

The average peak torque to achieve two finger tightness was 0.25 N-m (std dev = 0.06). The torques ranged from 0.11 to 0.32 N-m among the subjects. So, if you want to torque the lock ring, use 0.32-0.52 N-m (4.3 in-lb max) to exceed recommendation.

I walked mine into the Dillon store, put it on the counter, clerk looked at it, bent down, and gave me a new powder measure.

I find swaged lead bullets to be more accurate than cast. Any real H&G 68 clone (long-nosed) SWC will feed if you set the COL correctly. I use Zero, Precision Delta, and Precision Bullets 200gn L-SWC. The latter company sells coated bullets. Other than that, I find most commercial cast bullet companies pretty much use the same equipment and produce bullets equal to the others, so I have not real preference; however, mastercastbullets.com, Missouri bullets, and Penn bullets have worked well for me. Almost all my .45 feed empty sized cases without issue and they have never had an issue with any bullet—if the COL is set correctly.

Since we have 231/HP38 and 296/H110, Hodgdon won't eliminate if there is a large enough market for each powder

bottleneck/wasp waist is a desirable result for 9x19. Makes bullet set back more difficult.