ELK-K

I bought the $1800 Rollsizer a few months ago to process appx 5,000 pieces of 9mm per month. It works really well and runs fast but I am very disappointed in the build quality at that price point. From a functionality perspective, I don’t know that there is a better option, however, it would be nice if it was either cheaper or better quality. It looks and feels like it was built in someone’s garage BUT, as I mentioned previously... it does work well!

Sounds like just about everyone agrees... lube it and shoot it! Thanks for the feedback.

I’ve spent 20 years reloading pistol brass dry but I have recently started lubing cases just because sizing requires so much less force with lube. Ive been using a minimal coating of Hornady One Shot on 9mm and I’ve been tumbling off the the lube in dry corn cob after loading. I’ve shot several hundred rounds without removing the lube and it seems to have no adverse affect on reliability or the gun. I’m looking for feedback from others on shooting pistol rounds without removing lube. By the way, I am referring exclusively to range practice rounds by the thousands... not defensive or match ammo.

Solsand, I just want to give you credit for the outstanding thread. Lots of good discussion and information for everyone to learn from. But, most importantly, I appreciate your conclusion to the thread. There aren't too many people in this alpha community that would own a screw up like that even though EVERY ONE of us have made mistakes in our reloading over the years. Thanks!

I had the same problem with decapping 9mm and tried all the usual advice floating around the internet without success. This problem has plagued my reloading for years. Recently I made a small modification to the standard Dillon size/decap die and it has worked wonderful for the last ~20,000 rounds. I have only had two or three primers get sucked back in over the course of these last 20k whereas before I would have 5+ suck back in for every 100 rounds I loaded. I experienced the same problem on my 1050 and my Revolution and this mod fixed the issue on both machines. I’ll try to post some pictures this evening with a description of the modification. Here are some pictures of the modification I made to the standard Dillon decapping/sizing die. I essentially modified the assembly to allow the spring to compress approximately 0.100” before pushing the primer out. After the primer is pushed out, the spring snaps the assembly back by the 0.100” with a significant amount of force and it launches the primer off the end of the decapping pin. There is a very audible “snap” each time a case is decapped. The primer is shot off with such force that often the spent primer will bounce out of the primer catcher on the 1050. This modification has completely solved the problem for me! I tried a version of this using the original snap ring design at the top of the assembly but I kept breaking the snap rings about ever 2,000-3,000 rounds. This is why the end of the assembly has been turned down to the base of the snap ring grove and then drilled, tapped, and reassembled with a threaded fastener and washer. Also, I have found that the standard decapping pins from Dillon have just enough variability in the diameter that some are so large they get stuck in the flash hole and don’t snap back easily. This prevents the new design from functioning correctly. Therefore, I measure the pins and turn off a few thousandths from the big ones and problem solved. This could be done with sandpaper and a drill if you don’t have a lathe... it doesn’t take much and they don’t all need it. A lathe is required to make the modification. If you don’t have access to one or have a friend with one, any machine shop could make these mods in about 5 minutes and would probably only charge about $20. If you want a video of the modified die running on the Revolution, PM me your email address and I will send it to you (it is too big to post). Let me know if you have any questions.