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Parallax3D

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Everything posted by Parallax3D

  1. The thumb rest I have on the left side of the gun props it up higher than a slide racker does, so a left-side racker for me is pointless. Rolling the gun over to reach the racker is minor IMO, and I can also see the ejection port when I do so, so I can see what the jam is.
  2. Mine is similar to Matt's. but I have an extra top port. They are all smaller ports too. First port is 1/4", the rest are 3/16". BTW Matt, I think you might know the guy who built my gun, Darren Mulford.
  3. I shoot right-handed, and have a Cheeley short racker on the right side. The benefit for me is that I can disassemble the gun without removing the slide racker. I really don't see a big advantage to having it on the left side. You get used to it on the right, and it ceases to be an issue.
  4. Any open-style holster for a CZ-75 should work fine. The most popular brands are CR-Speed, Double Alpha, and Ghost.
  5. The actual trigger has little to no impact on how long the trigger job will last. That's all a function of the hammer and sear, and how well they are fitted to each other. If you want a really light trigger pull, the lighter the actual trigger is the better. Lighter weight means you can go lighter on the trigger pull without fear of trigger bouce causing hammer follow. The polymer STI triggers are ok, but if you really want a light trigger that will last, I suggest getting an SV Tri-Glide modular trigger with a titanium bow. The added benefit of the SV is that you can change the insert to be long, med, or short, and to be flat or curved.
  6. I had to sand a little of the paint off of the interior mating surfaces.
  7. Not shure how well Shay Akai's comps work, (although I hear they work well), but I've always been told that the more ports the better. Every port presents a flat surface for the gas to push against. I know I had my friend make a new comp for my 9mm major gun that had three top and two side ports, as well as bleeder holes on the side, (think of a copy of Brazos Thundercomp.) He made the first port WAY too large, (about 1/2"), and the result was all of the gas dumping out of the first port, and the other ports becoming pretty much useless. He made another comp to replace that one that has four top ports, and two side ports. The ports are all smaller than normal, (3/16" as opposed to 1/4"), and it seems to shoot flatter and softer than before.
  8. Compensator ports do not lower the PF. Once the bullet leaves the barrel, it's going as fast as it ever will. The only "ports" that would lower your PF would be popple holes in the barrel that bleed off gas before the bullet exits the barrel. That said, sometimes variances in PF from one gun to another have more to do with the actual barrel. No two barrels are exactly alike, no matter how tight the manufacturing tolerances. Fire the same load through two identical guns and you probably will not get the same results.
  9. I would just get a new barrel+comp fitted for major. The biggest difference between the Matchmaster and Steelmaster is the comp. Run a barrel with a better comp, (more ports), and the slide lightening won't be an issue. I've seen plenty of open major guns that have similar slide cuts.
  10. That would be a really stupid rule. Part of the challenge is figuring out the quickest way to shoot a COF. Sometimes, that means stepping out of bounds to take a shortcut. If you're going to limit someone's options, use barricades.
  11. Personally, the only one of the three I've tried is WAC, but my friend, (a master class), used to use Silhouette, but switched to True Blue. He said it was cleaner. You may want to give True Blue a try.
  12. The Precision Delta FMJ's are the cause. You should get no leading from MG 124 JHP or CMJ. Buy whichever is cheaper for you. I tend to go with the MG JHP's just because they are a little more accurate for me, and the price is only about $1.50 more per 1000 from my local distributor.
  13. Tubes: Micropolished factory STI tubes from Thunder Mountain Custom. Springs/Followers: Grams. Bases: Dawson +1 Plus S.N.L. I get 23 rnds in my 140s, and 29 in my 170, all reloadable. My mags are not "tuned", (aside from me removing the slide-stop ledge), and they all run perfectly.
  14. And just why are the 170's with the Dawson +1 Plus S.N.L. bases illegal? That's what my 170's are, and they fit the gauge just fine.
  15. Range brass through my Lee Loadmaster with a factory crimp/full-length resizing die.
  16. Doesn't make any difference for me. I only get 29 reloadable. No, actually, I still don't know anyone. I've never met you in person, so it's still all just talk. I'm from Missouri, so you have to "show me."
  17. I have STI tubes, Dawson +1+ (S.N.L.) basepads, plastic spacers, and Grams springs & followers. I get 23 in my 140 mags, and 29 in my 170. I don't know anyone who has gotten 30 rnds in a 170 mag with 9mm. I hear that it's possible with the right tuning un 38SC, but not 9mm. I got the tubes from from Thunder Mountain Custom. They polish the tubes and mags for you, but sell them for the same cost as standard STI mags.
  18. I haven't tried this yet, but it sounds like a solid idea: Someone here on another thread suggested using 95gr .380 bullet with the same powder charge you use for major as a Steel Challenge load. In my case, that would be a 95gr bullet over 6.8gr of Autocomp. Checking Hodgdon's website data, it lists the max load for a 95gr bullet as 6.1gr of Autocomp, and a velocity of 1306fps, (which would be about a 124 PF.) I think going to 6.8gr should probably increase the PF to around 140, and it would provice plenty of gas to work the comp. (Like I said, I haven't tried it yet.) Since you're only shooting minor, the rule for minimum bullet weight of 112gr does not apply, so a 95gr bullet should be fine.
  19. Shoot 'em until they split or your lose them.
  20. Tristan, just start reloading. It's really not that dangerous if you follow directions and pay attention to detail. Reloading for Open Major, (.38 Super or 9mm), got a bad rap because years ago the PF for major used to be 175. Since they have reduced the PF to 165, and because there are better powders available now than there were years ago, it is a LOT safer now. My 9mm major load is currently a 124gr MG JHP, 6.8gr of Winchester Autocomp, and CCI #400 primers, (small rifle), loaded to 1.165" OAL. It makes 174PF out of my full size open gun, and there are no pressure signs. Get a press and read the manuals. Consult your friends who shoot Open and ask them what their load is, or check the Reloading forums here. Reduce their load by .5gr - 1gr and load a few rounds. Shoot them through YOUR gun and chrono them. Put down a tarp to catch the brass and examine it for pressure signs. Increase your load until it makes major and you don't have any pressure signs.
  21. Do you think I can just down load the 6.8gr of Autocomp down to some thing for minor? 5.3 grains of Autocomp SHOULD get you somewhere around 1150 fps and a PF of 142.
  22. The powder hopper is on correctly. This ain't my first rodeo. The problems comes from when/if the powder hopper gets jostled. That can cause the powder to settle into the cavity and cause a slight overcharge. It's not enough to cause a KB, but it is enough to raise the velocity a bit.
  23. Nobody I know of stocks them. The size, (5-40), is just oddball. Most places dont stock anything smaller than 6-32. When I needed some longer screws so I could mount a Go-Gun G@s Pedal, I ordered them through Grainger. I got a box of 100 for about what 6 would have cost from Shooter's Connection. BTW -I had to type G@s Pedal, because the forum kept changing it to "thumb rest generic." WTF is up with that?!
  24. That's exactly the same load I use. 124gr MG JHP, 6.8gr Autocomp, 1.165" OAL. I just shot the Illinois Sectional, and I chrono'd at 174.5 PF. The velocities were, (if I recall), 1399, 1426, 1397. I chalk the high velocity on the second shot up to my press/powder throw combo. I'm using a Lee Loadmaster with the Lee adjustable charge bar, and sometimes it can be inconsistent from throw to throw.
  25. 3 - 140mm and 1 - 170mm minimum. That's what I have on my belt when shooting. Of course, having a spare 170 and 1 or 2 spare 140s is a good thing, (in case a mag goes bad during a match.)
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