bushmeat

I don't see anything wrong with a Lee press or dies. I use a very old 3-hole turret press. I don't do anything fancier than powder drop separately with an RCBS. I use once-fired PMC Bronze brass, Fed Match primers and 77 SMKs and get sub-MOA groups from both my 3-gun rifle and my SPR (which I use for DMR matches). I have never checked for run out or weighed cases. If your ammo is sub-MOA at 100 or 200 yards, your ability to hit further is dependent on having good dope and wind reading.

That's what I did. Chronoed then generated a ballistic table. The 75 yard zero is also dead on for 25 yards and 1.25-1.5 inches high at 50. Then when I checked the subtention for the 300 yard hold on the PA 1-6 which was 3.3 MOA, it worked out to something like 105 yards and the 400 yard hash was 120 yards. Has done really well on squirrels and crows.

I put my Primary Arms 1-6 on my .22 AR. Using Winchester M-22 ammo, with the dot zeroed at 75 yards, the top of the vertical line is good at 100 yards. The first hash (which is intended as the 400 yard mark) is on at 120 yards.

Sorry, for late reply. It was mounted on a rifle. It's an excellent scope if your matches are regularly past 300 yards and you don't ever run stages with funky shooting positions like reverse rollover prone. Try it out shooting from the lowest port of a VTAC at 200 yards. If you have such a great spot weld that you never get the black tunnel effect, then you're golden.

Sorry for the thread drift. Got a chance to look through a Burris 1.5-8 XTR II and its eye relief seems a bit unforgiving.

Michael, Any chance you are shooting the Vortex PST with the FFP? I've been shooting the 2.5-10x mounted in a Warne scope mount. If you are using the same scope, how are you getting enough clearance to see through your mini red dot? The reason I ask is because I bought a Burris FF3 and Warne offset mount and the adjustment knobs on my scope stick out almost too much to mount the FF3 offset by the scope. Thinking I might have to put a riser or something on there. Thanks, Powderman81 I'm not Michael but I have a Vortex 2.5-10x44 on a Warne mount with a Burris FF3 on the offset. I run this setup for DMR matches. I rotated the scope so that my elevation knob is now my windage on the left side of the scope and the windage now handles the elevation leaving the right side of the scope clear for the FF3. Since there is very little space between the ocular and the FF3's "on" switch, I use a popsicle stick to activate. After swapping out the turrets, magic marker on the left (now windage) knob for the difference in rotation direction. Hope this helps.

Because of the angle of the plate rack, it looked like lower left shooter had problems with the two furthest left plates not wanting to go down with his shot/choke combo. Loading more shells might not have helped.

Dean, Any changes to the shotgun capacity rule?

I want strippers resetting.

1 MOA. I zero on a paster.

You can't go wrong with the Stag 3G barrel. Got mine 3 years ago and it shot a 0.62" 5-shot group when new with 69SMKs and still sub-moa now. Aside from cleaning every 200 rounds, I have never shot .22LR, Russian ammo or reloads hotter than 2800fps thru it.

fat bastards doing yoga ... ewww

Peacemaker in WV hosts a monthly Long Range match followed by a Designated Marksman Rifle match. Both are over natural terrain, the first goes out to 1000+ yards and the latter to 600yards. Not too far away from you.

No a 300 yard zero is dang near a 25 yard zero. He should not be missing head shots something else is wrong. Now head shots at 100 yards with a 300 yard zero is an issue as you will be 4 to 6 inches high depending on the load. Alaskapopo, you and Kurt are correct. I stand corrected.

If the OP is doing this with a 512 Eotech, I think a 200 yard zero offers most flexibility. A 300 yard zero would have him missing head shots at 25 yards or slowing down too much to think and negating the advantage of an Eotech.

Vote for the 69gr SMK load. Zero with this and your 55s should be within an inch or two. Use the 55s for short range hoser stuff and the 69s for 100+. The 77s shoot very well but I've found that the 55s don't hit as close to afford me the same zero.

I agree with this. The cantilever rail was visual obstruction and p.i.a. The vent rib was much faster to use. Also, the backboring and Invector + chokes in the vent rib gave better patterns. I'll respectfully beg to differ here. Whether with the cantilever or vent rib barrels, SLPs have a well-deserved reputation for accuracy with slugs. That is mostly due to that one-piece 8-round magazine tube it comes with. Other shotguns with two-piece tubes sometimes require barrel clamps to hold up to the abuse of dumping. Changing tension in the barrel clamps screws up p.o.i. You can take an SLP apart for cleaning and after it's back together, it's shooting slugs to the same spot. I wouldn't suggest going to a 4-round tube and then hanging a +5 or +6 on there. Just my two cents.

You need some constriction, at least Modified, to make spreaders work. Spreaders are hard to come by locally and expensive if available. I like working out the angles to get clay and steel doubles. I tend to use an IC choke for everything and just change loads from #6-#7.5s for steel and use #9s for the clays. The lighter shot have a more open pattern.

How long have you had your magazine tube spring? It gets tired and the Federal bulk hulls are not the smoothest.

With my reloads, Hornady 55fmjs give me 1-1.5 MOA and 69 Sierra MKs shoot half MOA.

I understand there may be 50,000 Russian shooters that may be trying to get in.

Well, there have been stages in 3Gun matches where shooters go prone and everybody behind the line gets swept by a holstered loaded handgun. Just sayin ...

Your friends steered you right. The Burris XTR has a great reticle. The MTAC and TAC 30 aren't bad but that 2.5 center dot obscures skinny sammies. Learn your subtensions and wind holds out to the distances you will be shooting.

I would be take a look at the barrel crown and see if it had gotten dinged too. Also, carbon buildup does affect accuracy.

Hopefully you get to zero the guns and pattern the shotguns before you shoot. And they give you a full set of chokes. Otherwise, it'll be a crapshoot.