JWard79

I have a Cheely with another on the way. Getting a full custom will provide a 95% solution, the remaining 5% will be personal preference (which may change over time).

Are the minor loads the same oal or shorter? Might try playing with your major load oal, and see if that makes a difference.

I switched the factory sights out with a Dawson Precision standard height sight set. Doing this removed the iron sights from the DeltaPoint lense, and provides a better iron sight setup (.100 front / .125 rear) for production when the sight is off.

I wouldn't give up on open just yet. Try shooting it for a year, to gain speed & fluid shooting. After that point, if you decide to go back to production, you will be able to bring that back to the division. Just look at how a number of high level open shooters (JJ, Jarrett, & Eric G.) have brought open speed to reduced capacity divisions. You may not derive the same level of satisfaction from shooting open, but you wil learn a lot of skills that will make you a better shooter.

Your current setup is ideal for production; however, that does not mean that limited minor would not be beneficial. You may take a disadvantage points wise shooting in limited, but you will be able to focus on shooting rather than reloading. Production requires a little more stage planning, a few more mags, and a little more precision. Use limited division to learn position entry/exit, confidence on steel/difficult shots, and basic stage planning. Once you have that down, focus on reloads & breaking down a stage for 10 round mags.

Tape vs. stippling is personal preference, but with the latter you have a permanent modification on an M&P. STI double stacks have a modular grip frame, so stippling isn't permanent. Two issues that may arise from stippling an M&P would be "unauthorized modifications" and/or potential resale value. If you choose stippling, make sure the frame modification is within the rules for the division you intend to shoot. And since stippling is a personal preference, the resale value may be affected if you choose to part with the gun in the future (not all gun buyers are competitive shooters). I prefer skateboard tape for a few reasons; I can choose the texture, color, and location the tape will be applied. The gun can easily be returned to stock configuration. Re-applying fresh grip tape is easier than modifying a stipple job or refreshing a grit job.

Don't have experience with the RMR, but I put a Delta Point on my daughter's CORE. My best advise would be to get a laser bore sight, it will cut down the sight in time & allow you to confirm zero without hitting the range. I purchased a caliber specific bore sight that resembles the cartridge, and it was money well spent.

I would recommend either a Springfield Range Officer or the STI Trojan. The basic difference between the two besides cost are that the RO has a forged frame, and the Trojan is a 70 series 1911. Dawson precision provides competition ready package (CRP) configurations that will set you up with a magwell, .100 fiber front sight, and a drilled & tapped mag release (with lo-pro button). This package does not include a trigger job, but you may choose to select an upgraded trigger group before having that taken care of anyway. Everyone has their personal preference when it comes to 1911's and accessories, so I'd recommend asking to handle a fellow shooter's SS at a local match and see what feel right to you. For the most part you will get what you pay for, but at some point you will reach diminishing returns. Decide whether you want a workhorse range gun, or something higher end; but in the end a competition gun must be reliable.

A 10 round 45 magazine is pushing 140mm; which puts you in Lim10, Lim, or Open territory. A SS 40 with a "box" length magazine allows someone to be competitive in 2 divisions (SS & Lim10) and 2 sports (USPSA & IDPA), whereas an extended length magazine (140mm) only allows for one division within one sport to be competitive (Lim10 only).

One possible compromise to your issue would be to use a CMJ bullet, which provides the profile of a FMJ with a sealed base. The HP rounds are popular because they provide a sealed base, but have a distinct profile requiring a more precise load and extractor tuning. A round nose profile allows for more deviation from the "perfect" timing and alignment required to run a HP setup. In reality, the only advantage gained by using an HP or CMJ bullet is a cleaner bore and compensator. If you are willing to put in the time to visually inspect and clean these components, there is no discernible advantage. With this in mind, a high-tech bullet would suffice as well.

The Tripp mags are the only ones I'm aware of that can load 10 rounds. To clarify the previous post; the Corey mags have a modified polymer follower and will only allow 9 rounds while the traditional metal follower allows for 9. I believe the springs are the same between the standard and Corey mags, which allows for the followers to be changed out for more capacity. I'm not sure if the standard 10 round magazines will fit the box without modification, because the Corey mags have modified base pads. If you are looking to have a SS major/minor, Lim10, ESP setup; the 10 round magazines will be required. If you intend to shoot SS major then there are other magazine manufacturers available. There is considerably less magazine tuning required if you choose the latter.

Overlap in back for open, limited, production, and single stack. All of my rigs have either a mag pouch or electrical tape on the front centerline, ensuring the belt is always positioned in the same manner. If you run your equipment close to the division boundaries or want to position your equipment precisely, this is the easiest way to put it were you want it every time.

The movement of the spacers does not become an issue until there is enough travel to allow the spacer the fall below the top round in the magazine. With a 4 there should be no functional issues, but using a 7 (open division) will require the spacer to be attached to the tube or a longer spacer cut to size.

Major or minor is related to the caliber you choose. You can always download a major caliber to minor, but cannot shoot a minor caliber in major. With that said 9mm will limit you to minor only, whereas 40/45 can be shot in either major/minor. When considering the division requirements, the 40 is the only caliber that can meet the dimensions of the box in both major and minor when you factor in the length of the magazine. If you use Tripp magazines, the only thing you would need to change aside from magazine capacity would be the recoil spring. This would allow you to use one gun to shoot major/minor SS and L10, as apposed to multiple guns. In the end it really boils down to what you want to shoot. The 40 gives you the most options, but may not be the optimal cartridge for any one division. However, if you take the time to tune both the load and the gun to the division it will be more than adequate in any division you choose to shoot. I looked into this when deciding between calibers, and opted for 40. The reason I choose 40 over 9/45 had to do with divisions available with the gun, loading a round that doubles in a limited gun, & not having to worry about large pistol Primmer purchase/reloading configuration changes. I shoot 9/40 which means I don't have to worry about checking 45 brass for large or small primer pockets, and I don't have to purchase a caliber specific primer. There are plenty of GMs that shoot 40 SS and a few national championships have been won with this setup, so I don't think this is something that is holding anyone back. The major/minor debate is likely dependent on the match, but the current setup at nationals favors major.

Springs are relatively cheap compared to the price of a level 2/3 match or the cost of a slide. The weight of the recoil spring, aggressiveness of slide modification, and number of rounds down range will determine whether you should opt for the sooner rather than later replacement plan. The length of an old magazine spring compared to a new one is a visual indicator of wear, but reliability is the goal so check for function during practices & local matches before you show up to a higher level match ( mag spring cost vs. entry fee, hotel, food, and overall results).

Almost forgot, there is also a fining pin block spring. This brings the grand total to 9 springs for the XD to operate.

I don't have a standard XD anymore, but from what I remember it should be the same number of parts as an XDM. There should be a minimum of 8 springs for the gun to function. Recoil, firing pin, firing pin return, trigger, sear, grip safety, slide stop, and mag release (this is assuming you didn't break down the trigger & release that spring). It would be helpful to know which spring (or springs) are missing to provide better guidance.

You can reduce the weight of the springs to a point (dependent on your load), but just because it works doesn't mean it's reliable. Every gun is different, depending on the slide weight and load. Best advice would be to pick up a few springs that cover the spectrum, and test them out with your load. As mentioned before, the recoil spring weight should be adjusted to allow the sight to return to the original point of ignition (without forcing the sights low or high). This is subjective because the amount of force you apply to the grip when firing will also effect the sights returning to point of aim. With a strong grip a lighter recoil spring will provide a flatter cycle, but the lock time may feel slower.

I'd run it as is for a while to see if it functions and whether you're willing to put in the time/money to get it where you want. If you do the work yourself it will be cheaper, but depending on your ability the fit and finish may be effected. Installing the grip safety from your edge will require some frame work. The thumb safety might work as a drop in, but you should do a safety check to ensure there is positive engagement. As far as other upgrades go; sights, magwell, and trigger group would be on my list for the R1. Also not sure if it come with a full length guide rod, but that is an easy fix.

Interesting topic. I recently found out that loose spacers where causing issues for me as well. The mags were STI 140's with grams springs & followers, TTI 7G basepads, and TTI aluminum 140 spacer. The spacer would set just low enough to allow the top round to sit on top of the spacer making the mags non-reloadable . Ended up using RTV to attach the spacer to the tube.

Not to detour from the original post, but the Cheely vertical offset mount has worked well for me. Comes with an integral blast shield and does not interfere with ejection. I played with the concept of using a horizontal mount, but have been advised against it due to the design of the c-more. From what I have been told the c-more was not designed, and does not hold up to being mounted horizontally. I understand the the desire of mounting it in this position, but am more conearned about reliability of the optic.

Generally speaking, the main difference is grip size and capacity. The majority of wide body guns are polymer, but can also be had in aluminum, steel, stainless steel, and titanium. The material, grip size, and texture is purely preference; but unlike grip panels is a permanent modification. There are a number of manufacturers that make wide body grips, and aside from purchasing one to find out yourself attending a level II match would be your best bet to handle one. Another difference between the 1911 & 2011 would be the frame size/contour. Depending on your personal preference there are short, long, picitanny, and butler cut options available on 2011 style guns. When you combine the grip and frame style combinations you can create a lower that handles the way you want. Some prefer a lighter faster transitioning gun, while others prefer a flat shooting gun that is a little heavier. With a 1911 you get what you get and can add a few items to meet your preference. With a 2011 you can order a production package, or go ala carte with a custom builder.

I run a DAA on my Cheely and have it set a little forward of where I place my production/singlestack rig, but like you mentioned have canted the holster to level the backstrap. Have used this setup for about 8 months, and find it to be comfortable. My issue is magazine placement, slows down the support hand on he draw. I occasionally transition between division and have not seen any issue with the setup between the DAA, Stoeger DOH, and Stoeger belt level positions. When setting up the holster I try to keep the touch points with hands at sides along my forearm. The only difference between the holsters is how far I need to raise my arm to acquire the grip. There may be better or faster locations to place the holster on my belt, but since I shoot multiple divisions I try to keep the index similar between platforms. From what I have experienced, the further forward you place the holster the closer the backstrap comes to perpendicular with the ground.

I do not have experience with a ported barrel, but I believe the answer lies in the application. From what I have read a ported barrel will give some benefits on recoil while allow for the use of a standard holster. When dealing with minor power factor, such as 3gun, this would provide sufficient recoil reduction. For major power factor a compensator will outperform a ported barrel, but can be combined to suit your personal preference. Regardless of the type or combination of recoil reduction measures, the barrel length will determine the the volume of powder required & how loud your report will be. The IPSC modified division, which I believe is no longer recognized, is the only circumstance in which a ported major PF gun would be practical.

SVI sells .110 rear notch target sights, and combining that with a .90 front would give you a tight sight picture. Pretty sure that's the setup TG is running, might be worth taking a look at his SS.