45 Raven

1. Look inside the lower (entrance) end of the sizer die. Is there a carbide ring around the inside of the mouth. If so, yes, it is carbide. If not, then it isn't carbide. 2. Do you mean another nut in addition to the one shown in the photo?

Move the rear sight the direction you want the bullet to impact. Typically, a narrower front sight is less precise and not as conducive to good group shooting as it is to speed.

What about maple butcher block?

It's difficult to provide a cut and dried answer, and I think it really depends on the specific profile of your SWC bullet. The 48th edition of the Lyman Reloading Handbook suggests a COAL of 1.161" for one style 200 gr. SWC and a COAL of 1.235" for a different style 200 gr. SWC. Being unable to compare your bullet to the ones in the Lyman manual, I think would load up a few dummy rounds that are incrementally shorter than your current load (perhaps in .005" increments) and see how they feel/feed when cycling them through your pistol. If a specific COAL seems to be an improvement, I would load up a few to that length and try them in the pistol. Don't forget that when COAL is reduced, pressure increases if the powder charge is kept the same!

It depend on several factors, including the magazine, the specific pistol design, the way the chamber and feed ramp might be cut, the bullet profile, and probably more that I can't think of right now.

Which Vanek trigger did you install?

I think it might just be personal preference. I have used both and prefer the ASR because the Tek-Lok adds unnecessary weight and bulk to the holster or pouch. However, the Tek-Lok is almost bomb proof. I had one SRB holster wit the ASR attachment that continuously popped the locking bar out, even when I installed new bars.

Everyone has made good points and recommendations, but I would add that it's important to completely drain your powder measure after each use and store the powder in its original container. This keeps the powder properly stored in a labeled container. helps avoid exposure of the powder to humidity, serves to prevent discoloration of the plastic in the powder measure, and takes the guesswork out of what powder was left in the measure the last time it was used.

I would start at 23.0 for that pistol. My load for a 250 gr. hard cast SWC in my 9 1/2" Ruger SRH (purchased in 1989) is 24.2 grains and is the most accurate revolver load I have ever developed.

Not sure I am understanding the question. Do you mean that you have left the powder hopper on your SDB full of powder since you began using it?

Glad I could help.

I was so ugly when I was born the doctor slapped my mother!

I've shot Gen 3 17's and 34's on steel and in IDPA matches in Production and SSP divisions. A lot. I still can't tell you which one I like best. I think the 34 helps me out on longer shots and the 17 seems to index more rapidly for me. I like them both. I can't shoot up to either pistol, and there isn't enough difference in them to matter to me personally. So I shoot them both.

I'm not familiar with that specific bullet configuration, but 23.0 to 24.0 grains of H110 is plenty safe and accurate and provides low sd's and good MV from several Ruger SA pistols as well as a S&W Mountain Gun. Make certain you have a FIRM roll crimp on the bullet when crimping.

Here you go. Your answer is at about 1:40 in the video in the attached link:

I experienced an issue as you described with a Wilson Combat barrel for a Glock G17. Just loading slightly shorter COAL solved the issue neatly.

I recommend the RMR02. Non-adjustable, and seems to be more robust than the ones with adjustments for dot intensity. Recently upgraded (durability) by Trijicon and now have 6.5 MOA dots in them.

Locked case inside checked bag. One of the "mini-vaults" that can be secured to the interior framework of the checked bag with the included cable works well.

I have a Haley Skimmer in a G34 with about 2500 rounds through it now. Take-up is shorter than stock and break is crisp (for a Glock) at around 4 lbs. I like it, but my experience shows me that nearly the same thing can be accomplished at lower cost with polishing and spring changes, depending on tolerance stacking in different pistols. I have a G19 that has a $75 Glockmeister trigger in it that is considerably better than the G34 with the Skimmer. And I have a G17 that has $25 worth of aftermarket parts and a bit of polishing on it that is very close to the Simmer except for a longer take-up. I'm personally convinced the Skimmer is a very good trigger and also convinced that it will feel better in some pistols than others, again depending on tolerance stacking.

This.

I have tried both, and for me red works much better. Just seems faster to pick up. As mentioned, it's best to try both and see which fits your specific needs best.

Bullet seating depth is VERY CRITICAL in 9mm cartridges. The cartridge typically runs chamber pressures in the 35-37,000 psi range. A bullet seated just .020 too deep can raise the chamber pressure to 50,000 psi or more. You want to shoot the gun not wear it so be very careful. If you haven't already done so, buy a good reloading manual or better yet, two. Speer, Hornady, Sierra and others list the cartridge overall length (COL) with each bullet for each cartridge. If you seat the bullets to their recommended depth, you will find it optimum for chamber pressure, accuracy, and function. Also, you will need a dial caliper to measure the OAL. The above infor comes from another forum.

I hesitate to say we'll be back in good shape again anytime soon. Still lots of reloading components not available, and everything (ammo, powder, primers, cases, bullets, etc.) is badly over-priced.

So I am just positive that everyone that is complaining about this took the opportunity to provide feedback to IDPA administration and the tiger teams when that feedback was canvassed . . . . . . right?

I'm not answering your question here, but I am curious: What is wrong with the stock RSA in a G19 to be used with standard loads in IDPA competition?