spook

The CZ SP01 does not have a magwell. It was removed from the list because it had a long dustcover (which to a lot of people seemed more like an excuse than a valid reason for removal, since the P01, Jericho and others also have long dustcovers) Capacity was never listed as a reason, but it is likely that it was taken into consideration. The SP01 and Tanfo had a lot of small features that, when you add them up, result in a pretty competitive gun. BTW, the mag capacity for the Tanfo is 19+1 and I know someone who can cram in 20+1. Flex$$ is right. There is an equipment race going on in IPSC PD, and the funny thing is that it is there, because the rules try to prevent one from happening. The cool thing about this equipment race is that it shows how little equipment means. People are getting all fired up because they think certain guns are more competitive than others. But in the end of the day, Dave S. spanks them all with a 3rd hand G17 with some Heinies I wish we would adapt rules that were closer to USPSA rules when it comes to PD

It is USPSA only and it is too late to add it to the agenda of the oncoming General Assembly (unfortunately) I'm planning on having it added to next year's agenda. 1911 SS's rock!

Very true

Still funny though

Nice Post F40 I also wondered what you have to do to "win". Winning can never be your focus, because it is nothing.

Congratulations Sam!!! (Told you that a short layoff wouldn't hurt you )

Aw, c'mon man! just crank out that 0.02 split

Bill Hicks was truly a great comedian/philosopher... Too bad he had to go so early

Getting an old gun with the non-MIM parts, no lock and the hammer mounted FP is a great move. If you want to use it for USPSA I suggest getting the chambers chamfered (you only need to break the edges really). You can change the springs to some kind of competition type (Miculek, Wilson, Wolff etc.) which produces a better trigger pull, but the factory springs are good enough. But the best tip I can give you is to go out and train with it, on the range or at home dryfiring. I would keep the gun the way it is for now and just see what you want to change as you work with it. The cool thing about revolvers is that there is not that much to change. The only things I have changed is chamfering, narrowing the front sight and changing the grip and springs. $30 worth of tuning If you're reloading, Federal primers are the way to go. They're the softest primers, giving you the most reliable ignition with light revolver triggers.

Very nice find! I had exactly the same two problems with my new gun (same gun I think... Is yours a 625-3?). The rattle appeared to be a "trigger stop" consisting of a little rod placed inside the spring channel of the rebound slide. I took it out and the rattle went away. The cylinder binding problem went away after intensive use Happy shooting with your new precious

A friend of mine had his SVI Titanium Nitrated. It doesn't add any thickness to the material and is at least on par with HC in the hardness dept. The cool thing about TiN is that you can choose to have black TiN (which is what my friend did and it looks awesome)

Cool! I am looking for a way to keep my new revolver "new". I might try something like this (though I'll probably go with Titanium Nitride). Thanks for the info!

Very interesting Randy. I always thought that Hard Chrome would just keep sliding surfaces form wearing. I figured that direct impact like a cylinder stop and a cylinder notch wouldn't stop the wear/peening with surface treatments like Hard Chrome, because the thin layer of Chrome wouldn't be enough to stop deformation of the softer underlying material..... I just read this back and I hope it makes sense

Walter, this is true, but I have found that the peening stops after a while. It's like cold hammering the notches. I have an old "model of 1988" that has been fired and dry fired millions of times. It has some side to side play, but it is 100% reliable and shoots straight... Let it go and don't try to stop or repair the peening.

Sorry to hear it Patrick! They are truly man's best friend...

Congrats on the new gun. I would change the grip to something you like and chamfer the cylinder a little. That and a trigger job should do the trick.

Congrats Hopalong!!!! Area 4 revolver Champ!!!

Just curious (in case I ever get one of dem der round guns): any dangers/experiences of gas cutting/burning your thumb with it underneath the cylinder? Are you anywhere near the front of the cylinder? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Cullen, yeah I get some gas cutting, but that goes away after about a 1000 rounds Seriously, no, my thumbs don't get anywhere near that area, and I have huge hands. It's totally safe to shoot that way.

Ditto to what Hopalong said. I put it under the cylinder

I have seen quite a lot of revolvers who's owners ground down the main spring set screw so they can just seat it all the way and have just the right trigger pull. I use blue locktite and haven't had a problem with it in two years (ever since I started using it actually). The cool thing about having extra lenght left on the set screw is that you can screw it in further if for some reason the main spring becomes weaker. But I agree with the rest of the guys here. You have a revolver that is sh!tty to shoot right now, but it's nothing that can be helped. Worst case scenario, you'll need a good smith, some locktite and a new set screw. You'll be back in business in no time The nice things about revolvers is that once they're set up right, they will run for ever ever

I'm glad that they have used a different primer size on the GAP brass. That will save you from actually loading a gun with an ACP load in GAP brass, as you will have problems priming ithe GAP brass on the press.

My smith did mine for $10 and it turned out great. I did the first one myself with a small file. Also good. Go with what reloads best, not what looks fastest Nick, your new avatar is great!

Julien left the competition far far behind him last weekend. Unfortunately I did not get the chance to watch him shoot, but the second place was about 6% behind I heard. Congratulations Julien!!!

I just use any file I can get. Just make sure that you use one with a smooth side touching the slide. I use a Birchwood Casey blue pen afterwards. Works fine. Good luck!