spook

Even the greater shooters fall for it. Say NO to anti-gun-lobby-folk offering to "help you out" with your gun.

I had a class with Saul Kirsch giving us instruction on various things. He showed us his gun. That is one loose gun. He said: "doesn't matter how loose a gun is , as long as it produces good groups" That made sense to me.

For Mod and standard bullet needs to be .40 caliber (10mm).

I'm better in real life, I suppose

Good luck. Let us know how you did. BTW, pretty cool you picked up revo. Didn't you used to shoot revolver "back in the days" The revolver class keeps growing.

So true. Doesn't really matter what you have or buy. BTW, buy the California Competition ones

Ron, go with the Dillons. They are way to tight if you want to put the whole clip in. If you just put two rounds of the clip in (so the clip kind of "hangs over"), they rock. They're fast and secure then. There's also the possibility to adjust a little. I hit a couple of 1.8 reloads with them a week ago. That's not Miculek speed yet, but I'll get there, eventually....

www.lothar-walther.de

Ron, congrats, great gun. Especially for IPSC/USPSA. I personally think it's the best setup. Long sight radius. 40 cal, so you can relatively make the chargeholes even bigger than on the .45 model. You just need to find one. Anyways, to answer your question, I like the Dillon model very much. The blade techs, I've never tried. I had different holders before, but the metal ones don't snag and are secure, yet light enough to be very fast. Just make sure you set them up the way you like by adjusting and lock tite-ing the screw. I only insert two cartridges into the holder, while some people insert the whole clip. Also makes a huge difference. I see the other folks are giving you pointers on what holster to buy. I'll throw in my two cents. I LOVE my CR speed holser. Tried and tested some other stuff (safariland, H&S) but this is abolutely the fastest holster out there that doesn't compromise safety and security. There are faster holsters out there (like the Speedsec 5), but I wouldn't take them to a holstertest I agree with SRT that the safariland is a POS & a WOM. Not fast, not secure.

I've been thinking all day yesterday about it and I can't come up with anything that doesn't involve some DIY stuff. I was thinking you could use two target stands and put them say 5 ft from eachother. Then staple a strip of plywood (the DIY part) between them at the top. Take two other target stands and do the same thing. now place the first two stands about 2 ft in front of the last two. (I think by now you can see where this is going). Now you've got a frame that can hae one or more swinging targets. To make the frame for the actual target, just take a 3ft piece of round wood, and put a 2x1 (3ft. or depending on the height of the stands) directly in the middle in a 90 degree angle. Now staple the target to the 2x1. The target can swing now. Now all there's left to do is make some kind of activating mechanism. That's the easy part. Have a buddy activate it (from a distance ) by holding the target up with some string and releasing it. I've never tried it, but it's the only thing I could come up with, besides having a buddy hold up a target stand and moving it from left to right

Duane, seriously, that surprized me. I did a 7.1 El prez the last time I tried. That feels so close to a 6.7s El Prez. And i can't imagine that I could even come that "close" to TRGO . My splits suck and my fastest reload ever timed was 1.81, vs. Jerry's 1.4 super reloads and his unreal splits. How the hell...? It's still half a second though :|

Yeah, that's another thing. I think learning to shoot is in a way sort of like learning how to ride a bicycle. Once you've spent some time (rounds) you know the basics and you can spend more time on the stuff that's beyond that. There are definately skills that either do not deteriorate or come back fast after they went. These stories about Jerry prove that. He probably can go for years without shooting and still shoot fast and accurately.

smoney, yep. Especially when you take "best draw etc.". I used it in this case, because I've seen Jerry M. do this on tape and it looked "easy" for him to do. And yes, it is fun to do. Like with Grauffel. I once took his best draw, splits and reloads and realized, he "could" do like a 2.3 sec El prez.

I only know the appr. round count of 2 top shooters. Eric Grauffel and Saul Kirsch. I know Eric shoots about 500 rounds a day. That's probably (hollidays and days off included) at least 100.000 rounds a year. I don't think that shooting that much will make you MUCH better than shooting 50.000 rounds, but will just add that 4-5% more skill and probably the greatest benefit is the ability to perform consistantly. Eric probably shoots twice as much as say, Jerry Barnhart. He is not twice as good. It just gives him a marginal advantage (a pretty large marginal advantage, but still...) OTOH, he has only shot 25000 rnds. through his limited gun, and could probably win the world shoot with that too

Erik, is that a little Hitler C3PO on your shelf? Nice dungeon BTW

Brian, if yo liked SA, be sure to check Princess Mononoke. It's by the same guy who did SA. Awesome.

Late? Within the week is not late Cheers Bjorn

Erik, I only have old S&W's, so I couldn't tell you if the quality of their revo's deteriorated over the last couple of years. What I do know is that the parts that you don't like can be replaced by older parts. There are still some old triggers out there. I've just ordered a Stainless trigger for my 625. They're still in stock in some places. They're quite pricey though. If you don't like the MIM stuff, which I can understand, I would buy an "old" Smith. There are many out there. My smith thinks I'm a little ignorant for not liking the MIM stuff. He says it's a "gut feeling" most people have. Most people think MIM is weak and has bad tolerances. He claims it's cheap, but no worse than the old smith stuff. He's probably right (but I still ordered the SS trigger ) The stuff is strong though. Ruger has been building revolvers that way for years, and they're virtually indestuctible.

I agree with you Julien. I'm just wondering why you put this post in the "What I LIKE"forum

Old Newguy, I used to load my rounds pretty long (shoot them through a revolver) and had a 4.9 grain N320 load with a light to medium crimp. To make it cleaner (as a by-product to making major PF) I put more crimp on the case, threw in 5.2 grains (to make major) and made it shorter (went from 1.268" to from 1.248"). All those things throw the pressure up and make the powder burn better. It's not dirty anymore. I used to clean my gun between stages, or my reloads would suck. Now I don't have to clean my gun after a whole match So I didn't have to diddle much. Just do the things that make it burn better. Since you shoot a Glock, you might want to try magnum primers. Whatever you do, do it safely Be safe with the pressures in stock glock .40 barrels. I have a friend here on the forum, who shoots N340 through a stock barrel .40 Glock. He has a very clean load. I saw him post here: http://64.62.172.100/~brianeno/index.php?a...t=ST&f=4&t=5674 Maybe you can PM him about the exact specs on the load. I shot his gun with that particular load and it's really nice and clean. And I have to say, with the higher pressure/better burning, the gun really shoots much better (opposite of my expectations). Good luck, Bjorn

George, revolvers are somewhat different in returning from recoil than autoloaders. Where an autoloader has a slide that will cause a lot of recoil, and return the gun to it's original position, the revolver has inert mass, that will move up because of the force the bullet puts on the gun, and return to it's original position, because of gravity and muscle tension (my opinion). With muscle tension I do not neccisarily mean deliberate tension, but also tensin of the muscle, because of the maintaining shooting stance/grip. Especially, with major loads in a not so heavy gun (say 170 PF loads in a 625) and up, this is noticable. Your body has the function of the "slide". If you try the random rounds stuff, you'll probably notice the shots will be on the same spot as they were before. If they are, you're not flinching, but only making sure the gun returns fast and efficiently. Timing.

I've posted before in various threads that I had prblems with VV N320. It was drity. I loaded by numbers in the VV manual. Those numbers are not accurate. I chronoed, adjusted my load, and have a very clean load now. At low pressures it sucked. At the pressures I'm loading now, it's very clean.

Ron, I don't know if Jerry could do it on demand. What I do know (I got his tape in last week), is that he can shoot a double Bill Drill from the holster (Draw, shoot six, reload, shoot six) in 4.45s. It was not a "glory run". He had a hickup after the reload (which was 1.72 BTW). I also know (also on the tape) that he can shoot two shots on three targets from low ready in 1.61 s. Multiply 1.61 by two and add a cuple of thents for a draw (say .3) and a reload (1.8), and you have a 5.32 El Prez.

That still means he can do it in: Draw: 0.8 s 5 splits + transitions: 0.17 s Reload : 1.75 s 5 splits:0.17 s 4.25 s And I'm not even using record splits. Those are pretty realistic numbers.

Paul, good to know. I too have had misfires with winchesters and increased trigger pull weight. Do you know BTW if federal Large Pistol magnum primers are harder than regular LP150's?