zero-down

+1 as well. Keep the factory spring with stock ammo.

+1 Here. Easier to tame a rifle length gas system.

Same here except I don't have the filters in them. I double up and use these under my Impacts. I can still hear fine with the combo for both SO'ing and hearing range commands if I'm shooting as long as the other person is close. Personally I prefer the extra quietness as it helps me concentrate better. Other people talking / laughing near the line is distracting to me.

I would recommend the Urban ERT. They have adapters for every config you can think of. Its a hybrid system that can easily go from 1 point to 2 point and variations in between very easily. Here is a link. http://www.urbanertslings.com/siposl.html I've been really happy with this one and its well made.

That sounds to be my problem. The plug freely rotates in the slide with or without a spring. It looks new so I'm guessing the previous owner threw it on there before shipping the gun and never actually used it. I've got a regular reverse plug on the way and hopefully that solves the problem. Thanks for the responses.

At the end of last season I picked up a used open gun that is cut for a reverse plug. The gun came with the hat style and a 2 piece guide rod. The plug looks like this Well today I actually got a chance to give the gun a test run and I immed ran into problems. After a couple of shots, the plug is rotating in place and the lip "hat" is catching the barrel at the back of the cycle. This is binding the gun up. The slide gets jammed open and it took some good coaxing with my palm to get it to close. Is there a proper way to set this up that I did not follow? Should I just ditch this thing and go with a regular reverse plug? I'm open to all options and suggestions.

+1 100%. I have this on all my M&Ps, rifles, and mags. It offers great grip but won't trash your hands. Also works in all weather (including sweaty hands). I went with a 50' roll of the 1 inch. Here is what it looks like.

are you milling the slide for the delta point or will you be using a mount that installs inthe rear dovetail? either way, would be very keen to see pictures, can you post a pic or two once you have the sight installed? Not sure if this helps but here is my 40c with a JPoint in dovetail mount. Personally I think I'm going to have bowie mill it into the slide. I've been practicing quite a bit with it and I think it sits too high.

70116 - Gun looks great. My 9mm FS open gun looks very similar and I used a number of the same pieces. I actually experience the same issue with my full size in that the cases from minor ammo still hit my optic. Thats with a 13lb ISMI spring. Its 100% reliable but it won't eject far enough to clear the sight. Major ammo is no problem. What springs are in that 9L setup?

Just to be clear though you can go down but not up. For example, you can not do what your title says which is going from 9mm to 40 without putting on a different slide. You can however go from 40 to 9mm.

I had already gone down this path previously when I was building my open gun and came up with a similar design. I put a set screw in the front of the trigger taking out some pre-travel. I also reshaped the trigger hook to allow for the trigger being moved back and timed it with the striker plunger. I then lifted the trigger bar to engage the sear a little earlier and worked over the sear to cut down on weight and grit. And for overtravel I have another set screw in the back part of the frame. I can smash on it all day long and it works great. Once I depress the trigger to clear the safety, its barely any movement and you are on the sear. It breaks clean and stops just past break. Reset is extremely short and unfortunately silent. I'm going to try the apex ram to see if I can get a more tactile reset on it but personally I love it.

I second that what rent says. Bending the trigger bar will take out pre travel but extend overtravel and reset. It took a bunch of trial and error for me as well but a combination of set screws, trigger bar and sear work - I've eliminated most of the pre and overtravel. I decided to have the sear break mostly in the middle of the trigger pull so I could work on both ends (if that makes any sense). I found that I couldn't use the apex sear b/c it breaks so far back in the trigger travel so I worked over stock sears to get what I wanted.

I've been carrying the 40c for a couple years now. Haven't had any issues. My guess is its the ammo.

I carry a 40c. conceals very well. No complaints.

Do what sperman says. I had to do this on all my followers for both the 140 and 170mm ext.

+1 for the Burris XTR. We shoot pretty short distances in the northeast but I still find the BDC to be really fast. I only use a 25 yard zero as 80%+ of my shots are up close and personal. I use the hash marks above the circle for punching out to distances up 200 or so. It really comes down to knowing your hold and where your impacts are. I find the hash marks are easy for me to pick up and I can nail targets first shot without any guess work.

I'm running a 13lb ISMI on mine. 147 BBI, Solo 1000, 1.135 @ 132-134pf. runs 100% in my Pro

You can just cut off the end if its pinched in a bit for the full size. This is what I had to do with my comp-tac holster to work with the pro and its fine. You can also use a heat gun to open it up. The kydex becomes soft pretty quickly under a heat gun.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=0/sid=859/schematicsdetail/MP__Semi_Auto_ Brownells has schematics for most guns.

Cha-lee, what do you think the total trigger travel is with the set screws? Is there any trigger prep or is it right there?

I think it would be an interesting battle if the Saigas could not have any external modifications such as a magwell or extended mag release. If they had to seat the mags as the Russians intended and could only start the stage with 6 in the gun, it could balance out. Plus it would be funny watching people trying to move with 6+ mags hanging all over them for a long stage in addition to pistol and rifle mags.

I've been fighting this same fight for a while and I'm interested to see what you come up with. What you'll see when you get the APEX stuff in is that there is very little overtravel with the apex sear. The sear breaks all the way at the end of the trigger pull. With the apex sear its almost all pre-travel. The set screw is one way to take some of it out but 2 other issues come up. 1- Come too far back and you are lifting the striker block where its getting close to having no value. 2- you have to reshape the trigger hook to allow for more space since you are moving the trigger back more. It only takes a couple trial and error passes to figure this out but you'll be surprised how much pre-travel you will still have. With a shaped & polished stock sear you have a couple other options. You can use a combination of the set screw and lifting the hook on the trigger bar to engage the sear earlier. Then you just have to deal with the overtravel which can be handled in the sear block, the trigger bar, etc. This is going to give you a trigger that breaks really early. Just time it with the striker block and you are good to go. IMO, a homerun would be an apex sear and a new trigger bar. Change the timing of the striker block safety by moving the tab a little forward, bring the trigger back taking out the pre-travel, and have the sear break at the rear just like the apex kit does today would be one kick ass trigger.

When I first started shooting AR's I had a 16" STAG which was fed steel wolf and bear. It only took 3k rounds to eat up the extractor. Haven't shot steel since and after 000's and 000's of rounds haven't had an issue on any gun.

I ran into the same problem and actually have a thread on here somewhere. You need to file down the legs on the follower and angle them in. It will make the problem go away. I traded emails with TF directly and this was his recommendation.

I've been using a JPoint and have run into no issues. The dot jumps a bunch but its worked 100% so far.