zero-down

Nope, no frame mounts yet for the M&P. The design of the frame and placement of the take down lever, pins, etc, don't lend themselves nicely to a mount like that. Whoops - I have to be honest, I'm surprised you are having so many issues. How many rounds have you put through the gun? With the exception of some spring fiddling, I've had no issues in my full size open. I would guestimate that I'm probably a little over 1k mark with mine. It only takes 8.6gr of HS6 w/ a 115 to make major in the shorty so I haven't seen any flatting or pressure signs yet. You may want to consider going to a smaller comp like a carver to shed some front end weight. You'll have less drag to deal with and it may solve some of the other issues (like make up for the dot). I have the short carver comp myself (3 ports top, 2 each side) and although muzzle flip is there, it isn't too horrible. As for attaching the comp, I added a set screw on the top to help hold it in place. Drill the comp on the barrel so you can get a little dimple in the barrel. Loc-tite both the screw and the threads and set it for 24 hours. It should hold just fine.

I would try it with the stock springs first. If it doesn't run well go down to a 13lb. You can leave the striker spring alone at 13 and it should work out fine. Otherwise you may have to test different combinations to get a good cycle but not get light primer hits.

1. This is all dependent on budget, timeframe, off the shelf components, etc. Most of the stock threaded barrels for the M&Ps are 1/2 x 28. So any comp that fits that thread will work. A number of the glock comps will work (Jager, Carver, etc). If you want to use a SJC comp for example you'll most likely have to have an extended barrel threaded by a smith. It really comes down to which you prefer. Expect to do some tuning with springs and such to get it to work 100%. 2. Some comps will work with both. The bigger comps (4+ ports) may not run great on minor but will handle major better. If they do run both, ejection will be significantly less with minor. You may want to pick one or the other rather than going for a swiss army knife. 3&4. can't offer anything there. With the BUIS you have a couple options. Your approach can certainly work. Another option is to have a set of suppressor sights mounted to co-witness. Bowie tactical has some great pics in his gallery of what he does here. That may be the best approach.

Another option is to add a set screw to the front of the trigger to take up some of the pre-travel. I put one in my full size gun and its working pretty good. It took a lot of trial and error to get it to work properly (and still not disable to striker block) but its better than it was. Without having a redesigned trigger bar or highly modifying one, you'll always have some travel due to the design.

I just picked up my first open gun and ran into a similar problem. The issue for me was that the reverse plug on the guide rod was not sitting correctly. Cycling the gun by hand was perfectly fine. After a couple shots on the range the gun started to bind. Took me a while to figure it out but that was my problem. The rim on mine is almost like a half moon. It wasn't centered and the working of the action under recoil moves it ever so little that the gun bound. It took a little adjusting to get it right and now works without issue.

The stock FO sight on the Pro is .60 When you get a replacement rod, melt one end, pull the FO thru, cut the other end and melt it. Using a butane lighter makes it really easy to do.

My Pro loves 147 BBL's over Solo 1000

It will be a nice setup. You can also have the Burris melted into the slide for one less thing to loosen up or go wrong. Just an FYI, I'm running a 13lb for 9 Major. Runs 100%. It runs minor perfectly as well but brass doesn't eject as far.

I wouldn't go with the JPoint. I have one on my M&P open gun w/ Carver comp. Shoots minor no problems but the brass doesn't eject far. Brass has hit the lens a number of times and left nicks since its acrylic. I would go with the burris, sts, etc - something with glass. The new Leupold deltapoint looks pretty interesting too.

I assumed the bottom part was plastic. Haven't had one in my hand yet. The bottom 1/3 of the mag is plastic and its 1 piece w/ the basepad. The mag itself is metal but they lopped off the bottom so it would only hold 10 rounds as a double stack. Unfortunately there is nothing you can do with it. Here is a link. Link to 10 rounders

Hi Guys, Sorry I missed a bunch of the questions. The barrel is a Storm Lake 4.95 Threaded. The comp is a Carver Custom. It is for a glock and took some milling to get it to work. The guide rod does not fit in the stock hole and has to be bored out to fit. The reddot is a JPoint with a standard adapter. The grip tape is from 3M. Its a rubberized tread tape. I use it on all my guns. IMO is much better than skateboard tape as it has a great feel, won't trash your hands and works in all weather (sweaty hands and all). I ended up buying a 50' roll of it so if anyone wants to try a little, just PM me and we can work something out. The mag extensions I got from Speed Shooter Specialties (one of the contributors to this thread). Highly recommended vendor. They are made by Taylor Freelance. The magwell is from SSS as well.

Poor trigger control w/ bad sight picture can cause this as well. I don't know personally, but this guy I know, who's friend told him, relayed to me that yanking the trigger trying to break the second shot faster can cause this. It can also cause Alpha / Charlie's. Fix - stop rushing and call the shots. No double taps, 2 shots, 2 pictures.

I've got my M&P dialed in pretty good at this point. Making major wasn't a problem. The load I'm going to run with is 8.6g of HS-6 behind a 115 MG. Its making ~168-170pf. I went as high as ~174 in my tests and didn't see any adverse effects. I'm using a 13lb spring with a reduced power striker spring. Ran thru 150rds Monday night without any issues. No FT_'s of any kind to date. You know you are shooting major but muzzle rise is not that bad. I did find that the screws on the Jpoint and mount loosened up but now that I added some loctite, they have been good to go. I'm going to shoot the gun at a match this weekend to see how she does under the buzzer.

27

I just finished building one myself last week. I used a full size that was lying around as the base and went from there. Only have 50 rounds through it so far but ran like a champ first time out. Tonight I'll be testing a bunch of handloads to try and get to ~170pf. So far so good though.....

Another one to add to the list is the Winchester SX2. Its the same gun as the FN and typically less money used. I found one a couple years ago for just over $400 at a local shop. It was setup for hunting and didn't have a lot of rounds through it. Small investment in a mag ext., side saddle, and new sights and it was good to go. Thing runs like a champ.

yep. what he said.

Can't offer any recommendations on places to go but can offer some advice on the assembly. All you need is locking pliers (vice grips), razor blade, and allen key to assemble the entire lower and A2 stock. Only takes 40-50min first time around. Brownells has step by step videos and instructions. Just some food for thought....

Thanks for the response. I wouldn't have any problem with black and its a good universal color until you see more demand. What would be the best way to see when a left hand M&P version is available?

+1 here. The mineral spirits makes a huge difference in dust. quite amazing actually.

Saul - Any ETA on the lefty versions of the Race Master? By any chance, will the glock version work with an M&P?

This year I've been learning alot about my shooting habits and really been working hard on how to improve them. Throughout the winter I changed a number of aspects of my game including stance, grip, body position, even the load I run through the gun to better maintain sight picture and reduce recoil. For some reason I've picked up this really bad habit over the past two months and I can't seem to break it - thus asking for some wisdom and guidance. When I engage a target my first shot is usually right in the center of the the A - cool. Then comes my second shot. My follow up is almost always a flyer. Usually a charlie, delta, or even a mike. I always thought it was sight picture (and it sometimes is) but it wasn't until the last match I shot that I realized the main culprit was and is my trigger control. As soon as my front sight comes back on target I'm breaking the second shot - but I'm smashing the trigger. Instead of a solid, consistent pull and good follow through, I'm pulling like hell trying to speed the break of my second shot. Being a lefty this is pushing all my second shots to the mid and upper right of the target. To break it down - I'm rushing, plain and simple. I spend a lot of time dry firing which has had a significant impact on my first shots - which again are almost always A's. This isn't helping me though with second shots. I can pull the trigger slowly all day long and maintain sight picture but under the buzzer my habits are different. I like to go fast and push myself but I need to control my trigger finger under the speed. Any recommendations on training techniques/drills to work on that second shot? I know of the obvious answer of slowing down but I'm hoping there is some wisdom and advice you guys can give to work on this.

+1 here. I broke the extractor on my M4 and they sent me a new one + the spring and detent at no charge. Great customer service.

thank you!!!!! I wish this was mentioned either on the instructions or the website. It took a couple filing sessions but now they work. 27 rounds of goodness...

I recently picked up a pair of 170mm TF Basepads but I'm having a problem that I'm hoping someone can help with. I'm using the stock body and follower with the extended wolf springs and for some reason the follower will not go into the basepad - only allowing me to load 18 in the mag. Taking the spring out, the follower will drop down so I have to assume its a spring or alignment issue but I'm not sure how to fix it. This is happening on both mags. Has anyone else ever run into this?