zero-down

Just the mag release. I'm used to having it on the right side where I can use my thumb but its index finger on my open gun. Other than that, no other changes or issues.

I don't mean to hijack this thread but you guys lube pistol cases? What steps do you use? I've never lubed my 38SC or any other pistol case for that matter. As foxbat says, its straight walled case which offers much less resistance than something like a 9mm. I'm very intrigued here.

TF all the way... Both 140s and 170s work great.

Been there, done that. Here is what is happeneing. Since your sizing and decapping stem are bent it is offsetting the shoulder on the side it is bent towards. If you roll the cases on a table slowly I'll bet that the shoulder line is off just a bit. I've found that these cases can even make it through a case gauge but they stick like hell in the chamber. I had this happen with a set of dillon dies. Replace the stem and this will go away.

18" Douglas Premium SS via Compass Lake on primary. Breaking in a 18" from Black Hole Weaponry as we speak.

I'm interested in hearing how these work out for you. I bought a bunch of 1.5mm from another company and was using a lighter to melt both ends. I don't know if there is any difference between these and true .60 but I was blowing through rods left and right. Almost never fails to happen at a key part of a match too. I now crazy glue them in to hold them in place.

I can't get the link to work. Did you take it down?

There can be a number of factors contributing to the brass issue. The timing could be slightly off on the part that pushes the case through the shell holder. If this is happening often, I would realign the plates. If you short the stroke even a little bit this can happen as well. I've also found that some brass is slightly out of spec (read slight deformity on rim) which will force you to re-stroke the press. Checking the case where the issue happened will quickly show you if this is the problem. If its only happening rarely, I wouldn't worry about it and keep making ammo.

Is the ejecter wire hitting the shell plate or the indexing star?

Same here.

I currently have a 550b w/ case feeder and Hornady bullet feeder. I'm looking to buy a new press and trying to decide between the 650 and Hornady L-n-L. Besides the powder measure and primer pickup tubes, are there any other parts that I can use with the 650? Can I use the 550b case feeder assembly with the 650?

At a local 3 gun match last weekend they had a pistol string that was 25, 50, and 100 yards. Six shots on each. I hit the 100 yard plate 2 out of six. ( the two were probably luck )

I actually keep a spare part for every internal piece of the pro in my toolbox, including spare fibers for the front sight. Nothing worse than paying for and/or traveling to a match and having to bow out due to a part failure. Cheap insurance.

Agree 100%. I added the casefeeder and Hornady bullet feeder to my 550b. Its an allstar. For me I load a bunch of different calibers so I didn't want to reinvest in all new conversions, toolheads, etc. If you are just loading 40, then moving to a 650 or 1050 isn't a bad idea.

I use 147 BBIs with my M&P Pro. No accuracy issues. I can put 2 down zero in an IDPA target at 35 yards.

Same here. I pulled the action out to drill and tap the bolt release for the bigger button. The Nordic button for the Benelli works perfectly on the SLP or SX2.

I use one with my 550b. It works great with jacketed (not so much with Molys) and is MUCH faster than loading the bullets by hand. One hand drives the arm and one indexes the plate. W/ a case feeder its a great setup.

I've tried everything but can't get it to work with BBIs. The base and coating aren't consistent enough and some get caught in the die. I've also found with with the 147s, they don't stand well in the case. I've ditched it for now to use with Molys and only use the BF with jacketed.

The Hornady bullet feeder works perfectly with the Dillion 550b. Use a Lee seat and crimp die on station 4. It doesn't work well with lead but with jacketed, it works 100%. I've loaded 38SC and 9mm with it so far. That with a casefeeder is an awesome combo and you can load rounds incredibly fast.

I'd give the same advice. Here is how I load 223 on the 550. 1) Brass tumbled and polished 2) Brass sprayed with case lube BEFORE resizing 3) Brass placed in 550b for resizing and de-priming ONLY (technically i use a single stage for this but it doesn't matter) 4) Brass removed, tumbled to remove lube, and military crimp removed with chamfer bit in drill press 5) Brass trimmed/deburred/chamfered 6) Brass hand primed using RCBS hand primer. I usually do lots of 3-400 at a time and I can do this on the couch watching tv with the hand primer. 6) Brass placed BACK INTO 550b (with resizing die removed) powder and bullet seated 7) I then take sample rounds to test in case gauge The one thing I would recommend is if you are using the 550 for the resizing and depriming, buy an extra toolhead so you can easily swap out your die sets.

You are not going to fix the sear break point with the changes you are looking at. The only way to do that is to alter the trigger bar so that it engages the sear earlier. This has some extra baggage (timing the striker block, over travel, etc) but it will remove the pre-travel.

I had the same experience. I was using a Stag rifle and 22 conversion as my trainer and my Mic. comp looked even worse than this. It was a royal PIA to get all the crap out. CMMG makes a 22 barrel (1:16) for $99. Use that with an upper + your 22 conversion and you'll have a dedicated 22 upper. Its worth the money IMO.

That really stinks!!!! Good though that you found it now and not saturday. I'd be interested to hear if 231 is reverse sensitive to the heat as well. My Solo 1000 loads were barely breaking 750fps in todays heat. This is the load I always shoot and it usually makes 134pf. The slide was sluggish as hell so I broke out the chrono and my jaw dropped. I may have to keep my ammo in the cooler for saturday's match.

UniqueTeK micrometer powder bar kit - Have you added a generic knob yet? You can pick up a Black Flowerette from Home Depot for like $.60. If you haven't, its a 5/16" size. Sku is 30699 83748. You can find it in the bolts bins. One of the best upgrades I've found.

Yep, you are correct. The powder die and funnel are the same for 9mm, 38 Super, and 38 Supercomp. The shell plate is different b/w the 38 SC and 9/38 Super. 38 SC and 223 share the same shell plate. So if you bought the 9mm and 223 conversion kits, you will have 9mm, 38 Super, 38 Supercomp, and 223 covered.