rishii

I've used a green mountain bag for 10 years, its kinda like goldielocks and the 3 bears, not too big, not too small, just right. as the other have said, the bigger the bag, the more you put in it. the more you put in it, the more it weights, when I was younger, that didn't bother me much, now ever pound counts. what ever bag you get, do yourself a favor, get it in any color execpt black or dillion blue, the first time you put it down surrounded by black and blue bags, you'll thank me.

my old load for 115's was 6 grains of unique, I didn't have a crono back then, but it knock over the big poppers. but I gotta put a disclaimer here, I broke the frame rails on a sig 226 while shooting that load. my second 226 and smith 5906 handled that load without any problems. but for limited I pefered the 147 grainers, much softer shooting.

damn that was fast, thanks

I've been trying since last night, keep getting the message uspsa.org cannot be found.

if your like me and cann't count to 10, you could also drop in an arrandondo L10 plug into the mag, just to be sure.

or worse yet, possible squib and bulged barrel?

on a stock para, the parts I'd change are the thumb safety, the stock ones suck, paddles are too small, and funny shaped to shoot thumb high. I would replace it with a brown single side, or kings ambi safety. the stock trigger is ok, the guncrafters triggers are good, but the sti para trigger is better than both. the aftec extractors are great, but for a 45, I would stick with a nowlin tuff stuff extractor, less than half the price, machined barstock and cryoed for long life. if it doesn't have one, get a beavertail safety. replace the plastic mag catch with a steel one thats drilled and tapped for a button. replace all the trigger parts, and get a trigger job and replace the sights

don't know if this will help any, but it sounds like you have an old kidd extractor, that was the hot ticket around 10 years ago. the extractor tunnel was drilled oversized to accomidate it. I was told that the early ones worked great, but the had some QC issues with the later ones. you might be able to find a replacement, but I wouldn't count on it. you would probally be better off finding a smith to sleeve the extractor tunnel and run an aftec. there was a smith here, that has since stopped smithing, that would do that.

I know I met her here, true story, I was driving on a busy street, following the flow of traffic, a car in the next lane, cuts me off, nearly takes off my front bumper in the process, gases it for about 20 yards, hits the brake hard, to avoid hitting the car in front of her, changes lanes again , nearly hitting another car. I watched her in a space of a 3/4 mile nearly cause another 4 wreaks. caught up to her at a stop light, as soon as it turned green, gassed straight to a CHRUCH. I never knew, the get into heaven, you had to drive like HELL.

smith & wesson 3913 or cs9 I know smith autos have gottten a bad rap in the past, but I've been using them since the early 90's, and they have been very reliable. with the exception of the safety/decocking lever, all the controls on the smith auto are in the same place as a 1911. the mag release and slide stop are just where they belong, if you think that is not important, try shooting a sig with your thumb high 1911 grip, that lever your now holding down is the slide stop. the double action trigger pull is hard but smooth, the single action pull and re-set are short, and it feels very similar to a 1911 trigger re-set, alot heavier than my racegun, but the re-set feel about the same. plus they are american made with a life time warrenty.

Benny a quick question for you regarding the simmons scope, does the point of impact change as you go from 1.5 to 5 power. Thanks

Eric, I feel your pain, the trick to getting the pin out is to use a starter punch. you can buy one from brownell's , or you can do as I did, and take an old, dull center punch, and file off the pointy part, I bent a dozen punches getting those pins out before I figured it out. place your slide on a bench block, or if you don't have one, a scrap piece of 2x4 with a hole drilled in it. and position your slide with the pin over the hole. use your starter punch to pound the top of the pin, flush or slightly below the cut out. then use a standard punch to hammer it the rest of the way out. btw, if the smith uses the same extractors from their other autos in the 1911, you'll have to fit up the new one. there is a fitting pad behind the hook that you'll have to file down to get the proper tension.

I loved mine, but it was too bulkly and kept jabbing me in the side while kneeling. and I was also afraid of dumping my gun on the ground. I still see guys using them, but there are newer designs out there.

you mean I'm not the only one with a funny shaped head had the same problem with the pro ears, the band didn't flex enough to prove a good seal, sold them and got the dillon muffs. lighter, cheaper, and uses AAA batteries. the only down side to them is the foam gets squished and hard, and I replaced them every 6 months or so.

Bill, I got a two of them, a couple of thing to know about them is, they do not drop in, and had to be fitted to the frame. they are held in by 2 tiny screws that go thru the grip screw holes in the frame. I stopped using mine when I noticed that some how the single stack mags were peening the bottom of my feed ramp. and as you know, I pefer grips on my caspians, and was too lazy to figure out a way to use the incerts and the grips at the same time. I you want to try them, PM me and I sell you one cheap.

been using the same mags for 10 years, other that smoothing out the sharp feed lips, I haven't touched them. just changed out the followers and springs every so often. but those are my hard cromed ones, I've got a blued one that I bent the hell out of to get it to work.

years ago Earnie Hill made a fast track for my 226, I can ask the guy who's got it if he's willing to sell.

not with a accu railed one, I tried it, and being ham fisted and short sighted, I broke one of the rails, trying to get the mag to fit.

gee, thats funny, I've seen more sti's with mag problems, than any other gun. may be you guys got too many choices of parts, arrendando, dawson, grams etc. with the caspian you got 2, caspian and EGW. I love my caspians, thins walled mags and all. I am always amused by the STI/SVI guys talking about adding weight to their guns, tungsten guide rods, mag wells. think of all the money they would have saved by starting with a heavy gun to begin with.

I've had good luck with a berger 55 flat base hollow point over 27 grains of W748, its shot well in every thing from a 1:7 to a 1:12 twist. also if you really what accuracy, get some norma brass, expensive but worth it.

Pat, you're right, there are no excuses, I once was beaten by local hot shot in a rifle match, whats the big deal about that. he had a blown out knee from a motorcycle accident, need a crutch to walk, 2 hand to hold the rifle and hopped on 1 leg between boxes and he beat everybody.

I guess I'm only guy on the plant that like the ti hammers. but I'm not TJ or Matt Burkett and I don't shoot 50,000 rounds a year. I did have to re-do my trigger jobs after 50,000 rounds, which equal 5 years worth of shooting for me, and the only parts I replaced were the SEAR, and sear spring, just touched up the hammer hooks and life was good again. I currently have 2 ti hammer with over 50,000 rounds on them and another with nearly 10,000 with no real problems. and I alway put some chip mccormick trigger slick , and yes the bottle is that old, on the sear and hammer hooks. but like everthing else in life your mileage may vary. Brian H. on the keonig hammers, the first one I saw an few years ago was like you described, junk. recently I've seen 2 and they were nice, everything nicely polished, hammer hooks cut square, a vast improvement.

thanks, you guys are the best Aloha Ray

Hi guys, I need some help. I just pickup a 8oz can of imr 7625,and I'm trying not to blow the whole can on load development, can anyone suggest a starting load. my guns is a 38 supercomp with a 4 port hybicomp barrel. Thanks Ray

if I'm not mistaken the omni was manufactured by Hakko in Japan. they made a bunch of different scopes for companies who simply put their label on them. they sold the hakko panorama which appear identical to the omni. you might do a search for that scope and see if they have a service center here.