rishii

Barry please try not to re-load after the 10th round

I shot 10,000 billy bullets thru my supers. they are black moly coated and weighted at 126gr. pushed them to the old major, and had a little leading starting about where the hybrid holes are to the end of the barrel. our range is windy, so smoke isn't an issue, but it was hell cleaning the comp and the lens. with the price of zero bullets from angus being so cheap, I wouldn't bother shooting anything but jhp thru my supers anymore.

Butch, glad you could stop by, next time I'll try to find mags that work:blink:. I hope your wife didn't break the bank at the ocean center while you were shooting and just to let the rest of enoverse know, outerlimits is a great shooter and a total class act. hopalong your right, those guys are great, but wrong island, they along with badkarma shoot on Oahu and belong to the mid pacific pistol league. Ian and badkarma were the old timers when I started in 84, and taught me that simply spraying bullets an't gonna work.

instead of trying to fix the slop in the 550, wouldn't it be easier to find an old 450. solid frame, no tool head to mess with. and if you look hard enough, you maybe could get them cheap enough to have one in every caliber. check out this one on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...7167910509&rd=1

ditto, I also put it on the bottom of the hammer strut and middle finger of the sear spring. after 10 years I'm finally reaching the bottom of the tub

check out http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=2&f=142&t=146607 I pickup a G2 package with shock isolated bezel, tape switch and a duel rail front sight base mount from him. great product, and service. the mounts you linked to look like airsoft stuff.

I am not a glock guy, but the 2 holster that come to mind are cr speed and ghost holster both made a model for the glocks. you can check out the cr speed here http://shootersconnection.com/store/index.php?cPath=39

shooting open is far from useless, you just gotta reload more.

jason, our 10 pistol mag law is still in effect, and will be for a long time.

match in maui next sunday though...how cool is that??? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> It's never cool at our range , usually hot and humid. but the good news is the beach is across the street. believe it or not, I went for a swim between stages at one of our state champs years ago. Outer Limits looking forward to meeting you. Ray

gun stores, yes, ipsc stores, no. the only time I've seen a c-more in stock, the store wanted $400+ for it. most of us mail order what we want. if you have any relatives here you might have them place an order for you and have it shipped to them. the only place that might have ipsc stuff in stock is Esteban Tactial. Cem is a smith and master class shooter that went motorcycle racing for a few years, and is smithing again. I haven't been to his now shop and I don't have a clue what he has in stock.

Angus, I must be talented, I've got an old pinned metal ghost, and I didn't quite trust it at first. if I had a stage where the start was any thing besides standing, I'd start with the holster locked, and hit the release on the draw. twice I hit release lever, drove it straight into superlock, and gave myself a super wedgees. after that it was dremel time.

John, been there, done that, I think I still got the wedgee marks on my butt. I removed the super lock (I didn't know what it was call until now) by removing the lever. the cylinder that contains the locking mech. has a T shaped slot cut in it. I got out the dremel and ground out the super lock part of it.

I needed the opposite, I had a 45 setup and need a 308 conversion kit. I called dillon and told them I needed a 308 conversion minus the shell plate and locator tabs. they figured out what I needed and saved me a couple of bucks.

it looks like a drop hanger that safariland sell for their duty rigs. I remember seeing pictures of a early ipsc rig, it was a tie down buscadero rig, imagine a tie down cowboy holster made for a 1911. the caption stated it was banned as being un-practial. I believed thats were the holster height rule came from.

check [url=http://www.brownells.com for the mmc combat adjustable sights, if you para has a novak rear sight cut, however it may be hard to find a matching front sight that will fit the para front sight dovetail.

just a thought, did you check if the L shaped plate that is attached to the frame is tight, the primer stem rests on that as you seat the primers. also check for cracks in the crank, thats the part thats on the bottom of the ram and connects it to the handle.

the easiest way I found is to use a 45 or better yet a 50 ae case as a scraper, just put the skinny end bolt in the case, and use the mouth to scrape the crud off. and because bolt is captured by the case, there no worries about it hitting the gas rings or banging up your fingers.

I find it funny hanoi jane decides to apologizes for her actions while she's on a book tour and has a movie about to open. the last time she apoligized for her treason in Vietnam was in the late 80's, after the filming for a movie she was in was disturbed by people protesting her actions in vietnam. funny she always seem sorry when theres money to be made

the shooter generally doesn't notice the blast, because most comps tend to direct it aournd or above the shooter, it's everyone else around you that gets nailed.

milaunk, you have pretty much got it figured out, the only thing to add is not to fill the case feeder too much, only around 100-130 cases. I don't know what game your loading for, but an other option is to use a rcbs x die. you basicly trim your cases 10 thousands under trim length, fire once, set the decapping per the instructions, and you'll never have to trim that brass again. I just lube it with hornaday one shot case lube, let it dry, and load it the same as you would a pistol round.

benny hill recommends the simmons 1.5x5 with the pro dimond reicale, there's a thread on these scopes on sale at cdnn for 50 bucks. I just got my 2 in, and the optics look great, and on low power I can see the top of my mount. the trick to mounting optics to a carrying handle is to get a good mount. you can not get around the sight over bore problem. stay away from the cheapo no name mounts, I wasted money on those, get at least an aimpoint mount, or while pricey, the A.R.M.S. mount. you'll also want to get a cheek piece. with out one, instead of cheek weld on the stock, you'll get a chin weld. I used the cheap one from E&L and it worked fine.

actually the spring and plunger is held in place by the extractor. the S-80 extractor has a ledge cut in it to hold the parts in place. to install the parts, provided he didn't switch out the S-80 extractor with a standard one, you remove the firing pin stop and firing pin, back out the extractor a tad, push in the spring and plunger, while holding the plunger in, push the extractor back in. to install the firing pin, push down on the plunger, push the firing pin past the plunger, and release the plunger, this will capture the F/P. reinstall the firing pin stop, push down on the plunger, releasing the F/P which will be stopped the the F/P stop. it is easier to do than it sounds.

gbm this applies to S&W, but it's probably the same for other brands timing: the cylinder must be locked before the hammer falls, on the smiths, if you look at the bottom of the frame opening, you'll see a slot with a metal arm sticking out of it. if I remember correctly it is called a bolt. as the cylinder rotates, the bolt lock into the cylinder cutout, holding the cylinder in place as the hammer falls and fires the round. timing refers to the sequence that the cylinder locks. to check single action timing, with an unloaded gun, hold the gun next to your ear, and slowing pull the hammer back, before the hammer is in the full cocked position, you should hear a click, that is the bolt locking in the cylinder cut out, try to rotate the cylinder out of the cutout. repeat for all cylinder holes. if it passes that, next check double action timing, again hold the gun next to your ear, and slowly pull the trigger double action, again you should hear a click before the hammer falls, and try to rotate the cylinder out of the cutout. repeat twice for all cylinders. if it doesn't pass the timing test, it can be repaired by a smith. endshake: how much movement the cylinder has front to back, all revolvers have some endshake, but too much is not good, again its repairable by a smith. other thing to check for, with the hammer cocked in single action, without touching the trigger, push the hammer foward to check if it falls, if the does, pass on that gun on double action trigger pull should be smooth from start to finish, the smith factory specs. a 3 lbs minimum single action pull. check if the ejector rod is bent, with the cylinder open, spin the cylinder and look at the end of the rod, it should stay straight, if its bent, again ether pass on that gun or send it to a smith. on S&W, check the side plate, it is located on the right side of the frame, for pry marks, if you find any, run away from that one. check the crane, thats the part that connects the cylinder to the frame, that it is straight. just open and close the cylinder a few times, it should lock in smoothly and solidly, if there is reisistance, or if you have to force it. open the cylinder and push the ejector rod back, and look under the star, if there is crud there, if you have a toothbrush, brush out the area, and if there is still reisistance, run away. and please don't fick open and close the cylinder like they used to show on TV, that is a sure was to bend the crain. I'm sure there is more, but thats all I can remember right now.

ditto on the boarder shift bag, but I also use a mesh bag with it, when its time to tumble, I pull the mesh bag out, dump the empties in the tumbler, put the bag back. it sure beats digging out the last few cases that are stuck in the folds.