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I may be the only person that has experienced this but, 9mm brass that has been tumbled in SS media sticks severely on my Dillon powder funnel. Polished the funnel, bought a new funnel polished it, tried running the brass through corncob and still have the problem. No more SS polished brass for me. The worst was RP brass which is thick but Win drags pretty bad also. Dillon says this a common problem with SS media.

Mine is the same diameter.

N340 can flatten primers pretty quickly. Look hard for some N105.

I really don't know the answer so I hesitate to even bring it up. However, the desiccant packs may or may not be a good idea. Modern smokeless powder contains some moisture by design to provide the proper burn. If the powder becomes too dry bad things can happen. Since you live in a dry climate you might want to talk to Alliant and get their opinion on the packs. If you can get to the right guy Alliant is usually quite helpful.

I may be wrong but I believe you can just use a Manson throating reamer and you won't have to worry about changing headspace. Dave Manson is a very helpful guy. Give him a call.

A Manson throating reamer is your friend.

The filled in primer indentation can be seen on cases with normal pressure that had a soft primer and were fired in a Beretta 92. Most 92's I have seen have a camphor milled out around the firing pin hole on the surface of the breech face. This seems to often cause primer flow that will fill the indentation. My 92 will do it with S&B small pistol primers in a normal pressure load. Over pressure loads can do it in about any gun. In your case given some "missing" primers the above post by b1gcountry is most likely.

I may be wrong but I think the roller is a different size between the 75 omega and the p-series.

Most accurate for me in a 1911 38super is 125 zero conical or 125 HAP over 8.5 gr V V N105 with Winchester sp, or 8.4gr with Federal Gold Medal 100. OAL 1.25

A loose shell plate can cause this. Needs to be loose enough to rotate but not much up or down movement. Might check yours.

R-P brass seems a little thicker and slightly harder to resize. However it is my favorite brass. The EGW u-die really does work well. You will not be sorry for getting one.

You mentioned that the bearing plate had a slight bow. You might try another that is flat. Maybe the springing action is making it harder to get a firm seating action. Also make sure the 2 cap screws that go up from the bottom to hold the priming assembly on are not tightened too tight. Dillon says to get them snug but not real tight.

I am sure you have done this, but I will ask anyway. When you say some high primers are at an angle that sure sounds like an alignment problem. Have you loosened the two cap screws under the shell plate and realigned that part? Another thing to check, when I first installed my 550B's on the bench the operating handle was hitting the rear of the circular cutout on the loaded shell chute and was not seating primers all the way. I had to file off a little of the shell chute to give the operating handle a little more room on the back stroke. Primer ram height could still not be sufficient. The ram will go up into an empty shell and catch a little even if it is not adjusted high enough.

Witness 9mm are often quite short. I had to ream mine out with a Dave Manson throating reamer.

All of my 9mm Match and 9mm Limited barrels would not take a 125 HAP any longer than 1.07. I got a Dave Manson throating reamer and reamed them out to now accept a HAP at 1.14. It was very easy with the excellent reamer that Dave sent. The match barrels will take the standard 9mm reamer but the Limited barrels with polygon bores required a reamer with a rotating pilot sized to go in the bore.

My 9mm KKM conversion barrel had a very short throat. I had to load 125 HAP's to less than 1.07 when I wanted to load them to my normal 1.12 -1.13. I got a Manson throating reamer and lengthened the throat. You might check yours before you load a bunch of conical type bullets.

Tula primers can be pretty hard. My Glock with a light striker spring will not shoot them but my 1911's will.

I have a gold and a limited both in 38 super. They both run 100% on 38 super brass. I am just running standard MG magazines. If you are running long sticks, 38 super comp or 38 TJ might get you one more round but you might have to modify the extractor. Henning's site tells you how.

Everyone has their favorite method. Here is mine. From the drug store get a tube of pure lanolin ( in the baby section for breast feeding mothers). Squeeze a small amount about the size of the eraser on a lead pencil or slightly more into your palm. Rub hands together quickly to warm it up and spread it over both hands. Grab a handful of pistol brass and roll it between your hands. Grab another handful and repeat. After about ten handfuls add a little more lanolin. You will learn how to get the right amount on the brass to aid sizing but not so much that you feel like you need to tumble the loaded rounds. I just leave the light coat on the brass. This goes quick. You can lube 1000 rounds in a very short time.

You can load short. Sounds like you are on the right track. However, you can ream the throats. I had several Witness 9mm's with short throats for which I got tired of loading and keeping track of short rounds compared to my other 9mm's. I bought a Manson throating reamer (not very expensive) and some cutting oil at Sears and reamed the throats to the point where they will now chamber 125 HAP's or 124 MG JHP loaded to 1.14. It was very easy. Just go slow with very light pressure and and keep the reamer clean of shavings.

Probably the rather sharp shoulder on the JHP bullet (125 HAP's do it also) is hitting on the narrower bullet section of the case gauge. This happens on my case gauge also. However all of my 38 super guns ( 1911's and Tanfo's) will run fine with MG JHP's and HAP's loaded to 1.24 or 1.25. I think the inside geometry of the gauge is the problem and not your loaded rounds especially if they drop into your barrel OK.

Make sure the drop tube (inside of the powder funnel) is clean and relatively smooth. I have never heard of a bridging problem with a Dillon but I have read reports of a bridging problem with some shot shell reloaders. The shot shell loader had a problem when loading flake type powder with some static present that caused the powder to build up in the drop tube then all dropping at once double or triple charging a case. Some shot shell loaders would be difficult to see into the top of a hull and if you could you probably could not tell a half charge from a double charge.

My most accurate 45 acp load in 1911's is 185jhp over 5.45 N320 with Fed Match primers at 1.20 oal or 5.5 N320 with CCI lp. I have tried dozens of powders and many loads but this has been the most consistently accurate in my guns. I have shot many 5 shot groups of 3/4" or less at 25 yds from a bench rest with this load.

Nealio, the .355 bullets act the same as .356. A .355 conical point such as a Montana Gold 115 JHP will not go all the way into the chamber unless it is seated to about 1.05 OAL. My other 9mm guns work fine at my normal seating depth of 1.12. I do have a couple of KKM glock barrels that are a little short but not nearly as short as the Witness Match. I did have some Speer TMJ's that would work at a reasonable length as well as 115 jhp Winchesters. If I can't ream them I can get by with a slender round nose. Thanks.

I have 2 Witness Match and 1 Limited upper that all have very short throats. I have to load rounds for them with a much shorter OAL than my other 9mm's. It is a pain to keep separate ammo just for these pistols. I bought a Manson throat reamer to extend the throats but I have not tried it yet since after looking at the barrels the outside looks a lot like chrome but I am not sure about the bore. At first I thought surely they were stainless steel but now I am not sure. After a couple thousand rounds the outside shows no wear or scuff marks like stainless. It is my understanding that if the bores are chrome they cannot be reamed with a conventional reamer. Does anyone know if the bores are chrome lined? Thanks for any help.