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ToneSurfer

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  1. Ok so I got the Racer (Plastic) pouches. They come with 2 side spacers (the one with the leg on it to capture the mag and keep it from sliding all the way through the pouch and out the bottom), one thin and one thick. The thin one is installed from the factory. This is the only one that works with M&P mags, the thick one is way too thick, the mag won't even insert. Also comes with 3 tension spacers (these sit at the rear of the mag, have the steel spring pressing on them) which is what moves when you adjust the tension wheel. 3 sizes here, small/medium/large (or thin, thicker, thickest). The M&P mags seem to fit between the medium/large. Medium will work but you have to use up all of the adjustment on the tension wheel, and it is just barely enough. I went with the large, they take almost NO adjustment of the tension wheel, perhaps 1/2 turn just to take the rattle off the spring after you install them. I'm hoping that as the springs wear in it will be "just right". Hope this helps anyone considering the Racer's.
  2. I just emailed DAA asking about the spacers and fit of the Racer (Plastic) pouches. They replied and said the pouches come with all the inserts you will need and they should work 100% with the M&P mags. I ordered 5 of them today. I guess I'll find out when they show up.
  3. Looking at the Shock Bottle 100-rd 9mm case gauge. I'm interested in the black anodized. Any difference between that and the silver non-anodized? I recall they had a higher tolerance "match" version which I DO NOT want. http://benstoegerproshop.com/100-hole-9mm-luger-chamber-checker-cartridge-case-gauge-anodized-black/
  4. Check out the video in my very first post. I think the block is out of the way long before the striker is released. At least it looks that way to me.
  5. Ok, after replacing the APEX USB with the factory original and replacing the striker with a new factory replacement I'm still getting damage to the striker leg. This is about 1000 rounds now since putting in the new striker. The only APEX parts still in the gun are the sear, USB spring, striker spring, and trigger spring. I can't that any of them would contribute to this problem.
  6. So I came across another set of headstamps which are now brass plated steel - "Freedom Munitions", and "FM" are now 'on the list', along with Sellier and Bellot. Seems like Freedom came out with a new ammo line in December, American Steel or something. Didn't discover it until today, after I wet tumbled some range pickups. All the Freedom stuff came out splotchy and dark bronze, almost brown. Seems the pins are able to rub the plating right off it. I stuck em to a magnet, yup, steel cased. So now along with the .380 and .40 driving me mad, I've got this to sort through now.
  7. I'm not using the FSS, just the ordinary Competiton AEK (sear, usb, springs). I have seen many posts and complaints about striker damage and timing and was aware to check this carefully during my install. Did you look at the video I posted? The striker block is well clear (in fact invisible) before the sear is anywhere near tripping. Any suggestions for me?
  8. There were some APEX USB's that had some interference with strikers. You may want to contact them, they might replace yours. I did contact APEX, via email, they replied as follows: The Striker Assembly, Trigger bar, and Springs are all considered wear items. The location of your striker assembly wear is common as it is the leading edge engaging the USB. If it looks to be seriously worn we suggest replacement. S&W recommends inspecting and refreshing these types of wear parts as needed around 7,000-10,000 rounds. I hope that helps a bit. Call us if you have more questions. We are happy to do a tech support and look it over for you if you like. -- Have a great day.
  9. I had already replaced the striker to get it working safely again. As an experiment I've put the original striker block back in the slide and will monitor for a few hundred rounds to see if it starts happening again. Honestly, I cannot tell a difference between the APEX or the stock striker block. I may leave it in permanently just so I don't have to fart with that rear sight again (although it did seem to come out a bit easier than I remember).
  10. So installed an Apex Competition Action Enhancement Kit (sear, springs, ultimate striker block) in my M&P Pro 9mm in July 2015. Yesterday, about 8000+ rounds later the striker failed a safety check. I took out the striker and noticed it is peened over badly on the striker leg. I had seen other threads on this issue, usually associated with the timing being off. I DO NOT see that I have a timing problem, the striker block is pushed well clear when I reach the "wall" on the trigger pull. I checked the loop on the trigger bar and there is no way to close it more (an not necessary as I think the timing is ok). I contacted Apex for suggestions and they said the striker is a wear item and should be replaced between 7000-10000 rounds? Are others experiencing this issue and having to replace strikers often? I've replaced the striker with a spare and all is well again, but for how long? Photo of striker http://i893.photobucket.com/albums/ac135/tonesurfer/striker.jpg Movie of timing. http://vid893.photobucket.com/albums/ac135/tonesurfer/IMG_1261.mp4
  11. I've had an M&P 9mm Pro for about a year now. Probably close to 8,000 rounds through it. Last two matches I've had the magazine drop out when firing. The first time I chalked it up to me not seating it all the way, perhaps. But it happened again within a few days. I have never had this problem before, ever. I number my mags and it was using two different magazines. I compared my Pro and my other gun, a FS 9mm (which also probably 8,000 or more rounds through it), and the mag catch on the Pro definitely had a bit of looseness in it that the FS did not. When first inserting the mag, the catch would move forward (toward the trigger), a bit before it would begin it's outward motion and then snap in place. I swapped the parts between the two guns and will give it another go. Just curious if this is a "common" problem.
  12. Are you sure the ring wasn't on the bullet to begin with? I've just received 5000 extreme 9mm 124 plated bullets. They ALL have a perfect circle impression right around the very tip of the bullet. I like you thought it was the press. But, examining the bullets fresh out of the box, they all have it. In my case, it is so slight, and very perfect, that I can't imagine it to cause a problem. I have to use a maginfying glass to get a good look.
  13. Midway has this one: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/546264/smith-and-wesson-sear-housing-block-without-integral-lock-and-magazine-safety-s-and-w-m-and-p-m-and-p-compact-9mm-luger-357-sig-40-s-and-w This is what would fit in my M&P Pro. Old-style frame, without provision for thumb-safety. This will allow the use of the APEX RAM. Take a look at the customer comments where other's have posted pictures of this block from various angles to make sure it will fit what you have.
  14. Timely thread. I've just switched over to TG and X-treme 124 RN myself (previously using Bullseye/CFE Pistol and Montana Gold 124 CMJ). I load with mixed brass, Win primers, and aim of for an OAL of 1.148 (I don't want to exceed 1.150). Pistol is M&P Pro 9mm. TG 3.8 avg 1076 fps, STD 7.4, Max spread of 22 TG 3.7 avg 1036 fps, STD 14.9, Max spread of 45 (no idea why the range opened up on this load) Haven't done any accuracy testing, but they don't seem any worse than what I was seeing prior. Honestly, in my case it's always the Indian and not the arrow.
  15. That ejector looks insanely simple! I have a new project (I use the exact same setup for my decapping).
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