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I have found Vectan Ba7 1/2 to be very accurate with 115 zero C's in my 9mm Tanfo's. I am loading near the max in the Vectan data and that load is still not real hot. I have not chrono'ed the load but it sure seems milder than the book velocity indicates,

You may like plated bullets and that is fine, however, you can order Zero true jacketed bullets from rosedist.com and shipping is included.

If you want to work on all these modifications, that is great and they will make the gun very nice and teach you a lot about how the gun works. However, the Match can be pretty nice with a Wolff 14# hammer spring, grips of your choice and around 800-1000 rounds through it.

Both of my stock 2's will occasionally shoot 5 shot groups under 1" at 25yds shooting from a bench rest with the right loads. Once in a while I get a 3/4" group.

I had Dave Manson make me a throating reamer with a rotating pilot to fit the Tanfo polygon barrels. The pilot is .3405 and it works great. Won't fix a bad chamber of course.

I cannot help much with trying to make major 9 with this powder since I have not loaded above book. However, I really like Ba7.5. I have shot several pounds of it in 9mm 115 gr Zero-C 1.12 oal at the book max. The load is very accurate, occasionally getting 3/4" 5 shot groups at 25 yards off a bench rest with a Stock 2. I have not chrono'd the load but it certainly does not feel like it is going as fast as the book says it should. No pressure signs with Federal small pistol primers. Some, but not a lot of room left in the case without compressing. It is a small stick powder about the size of 3N37. Very clean. Sorry this is not much help for you but the powder shoots mild and I also would like to hear if anyone has run it up a bit.

67, sounds like you are doing great. I am not an expert so maybe someone that knows will help me out. As far as being able to put the safety on with the hammer down, I don't know what function that would accomplish on a single action only gun since the hammer is down and sear disengaged. DA/SA would be a different case. I had to file a little off the front of the sear safety leg since it was dragging against the rear of the pad on the safety shaft. I would research the above a little more before I took any more off the sear since with a single action only setup maybe it's not suppose to engage with the hammer down. Henning would be happy to answer that question.

Ben Stoeger Pro Shop usually has the standard length.

Memphis Mechanic, very sorry if my comments bothered you or anyone else. I just did not want anyone to accidently lengthen their headspace with a chamber reamer. I would like to tell you how my efforts went. I had a standard Manson throating reamer that I had used on other 9mm rifled barrels but it would not fit into the polygon barrel. I talked to Dave Manson and had him make a throating reamer with a rotating pilot bushing on the front ( .3405" ) that fits the poly barrels. So far I have reamed the throat on 5 Stock 2's and 6 Limited's with perfect results. When I started with all this I had not become aware that Grams was providing this service. I read that Grams does great work and is reasonable. Now it makes sense to just send them to him especially if there are other parameters that need attention besides the throat length.

67, EGW are very good parts. Last a long time. Just take your time fitting the sear and I think you will really like the results.

Just a clarification on terminology, I don't think you folks mean reaming the chamber. I think you mean reaming the throat. Normally you do not want to change the headspace just the free bore or throat to allow bullets to be seated longer.

67, they were used. I took them out of an old match that I had laying around. They dropped in and work great. I buy most of the parts I need ( and some I don't need ) from Ben Stoeger Pro Shop. Ben is carrying a lot of Tanfo parts these days and usually ships quickly. I think I am going back to 13# hammer spring and try the Extreme heavier firing pin. I have a Limited 38 super with a 13# and all other parts are factory and it fires mag and small rifle primers 100%.

I converted my S2 to single action with the following: Extreme SA semi flat trigger, EGW hard sear and EGW hammer. The EGW sear has no lever to push the fining pin block so that is not an issue. However the EGW sear usually requires a fair amount of metal removal from the front of the bottom leg that contacts the trigger bar to allow proper trigger reset and quite a bit off the top lever that the thumb safety slides under. After all the sear fitting it came out great. I have another S2 that I converted also by simply installing the trigger, sear and hammer from a Witness Match. It feels almost as good as the first one. On both I am running a 14# wolff and a Henning firing pin. 13# ran win and fed 100% but about 2 out 100 cci's didn't fire on first strike. If you are not shooting in competition that requires it, the firing pin block can be removed to improve reliability.

The 115 HAPs I have are .355 and the 125 HAPs are .356. Don't know if they are all that size.

This is a very small part. Might be hard to make. Ben Stoeger pro shop had them last time I lost mine. Couple of spares won't hurt.

The EGW U-die is your friend. Sizes the case down so you have lots of tension and you won't have to worry about setback. Although made by LEE for EGW, the EGW U-die is slightly different than the LEE U-die sold elsewhere. I have both and the carbide extends completely to the bottom of the die body on the EGW. On the LEE U-die the carbide is close to the bottom but inset a little. The EGW will size closer to the bottom of the case. The newer versions of both have a much longer threaded section than the old style. They have plenty of threads for the die holder on my Dillon 550.

In my 9mm and 38 super guns, true jacketed hollow points will shoot 2 to 3 times tighter than any plated or coated bullets that I have tried. Others may get different results.

ALO11, My defective mag catch was making insertion difficult and not always locking the mag in position. If your mags go in easy and latch securely your catch should be fine. The sharp front edge on the rib tries to pull the round under the intended round forward I think. I was having the 3rd round from last trying to enter the chamber high since the 2nd round from last was nearly out of the magazine pushing up on the round above it. Many guns will slightly pull the top round still in the magazine a little forward with no problem but, if the round moves forward enough to tip up it causes a problem.

Don't know if the fact one magazine does it more often than another would indicate a magazine problem. But it might. One of my S2's came with a defective magazine catch which caused a magazine seating problem. I replaced the mag catch, spring and plunger and it now works fine. My other S2 would sometimes jam on the next to last round also. I replaced the extractor ( made sure it was one marked with a 9 for 9mm gun) , reused the stock extractor spring, and stoned a slight radius on the front corner of the slide rib. This seems to have worked on mine since I have run 2500 rounds with no failures. Recently I have been running mecgar magazines with Henning base extensions and Grams springs and followers. Keep trying, S2's are great shooters when you get them running.

I have successfully throated 4 Stock2's, 4 Limited's and several matches with a Manson throating reamer. The reamer would not work on a Xdm 5.25 nor a CZ P09. For the polygon barrels I used a Manson reamer with the pilot bushing sized for the polygon. For lands and grooves barrels Dave's standard throating reamer works fine. I don't know about your barrels. They may be harder. My newer S2's appeared to have a chrome lined bore but the throat and chamber did not look like they had chrome on them.

I don't shoot too many rifle primers in pistols, however I have shot a fair number of Federal small rifle primers in 38 super and they punch pretty easily. Small pistol magnum's might be of help but I have never heard a definitive report on the relative hardness of their cups.

185 Zero with 5.4 to 5.5 gr N320 , Fed or CCI is very accurate in my Wilsons and Les Baers.

Steve R A , Yes, thanks for the correct word.

Works for ammo, your post #8 looks like they might have been shot in my Beretta 92. It does this to factory ammo since many Berettas have a camphorated firing pin hole in the breech face.

My new S2 would choke on the next to last round also. I replaced the extractor (the old one looked fine) and stoned a slight radius on the front edge of the slide rib. It now runs perfect. I am running the stock recoil spring whatever it is.