CocoBolo

You would be much better off spending your money on a Gym membership. Yeah I said that, I think movement skills and quick movement are huge in USPSA and not so big in steel challenge. I have taken old school guns spent a butt ton of money modernizing them with little improvement. Get a reliable gun you can shoot without it hurting your hand, and go for it.

9 major/38SC. I used some CCI SPM's there is a slight difference over the crono not enough to change the load. My go to primer is CCI SPP, just like Sarge. I've used a lot of SRP's and the Magtech SRP is the hardest one out there, man up on the hammer spring.

I would think any tri-topped slide has the chance of cracking. Doesn't matter if it's a open gun, limited gun, or a single stack. All depends on how deep the slide is tri-topped, recoil spring that is used, and probably the power factor of the ammo used. *slowly slides credit card back in wallet* I'm glad I read this. Definitely warrants some more investigation... Thanks! Both the limited guns I'm building right now have standard slides that are flat topped with 3D panel cuts done by Glenn Rasch at Lone Star Innovations. I highly recommend Glenn if you want a Unique looking slide for your gun. *slowly pulls credit card out* I will be making a phone call tomorrow. And I'll stop hijacking this thread now. I can tell you that I have about 40K rounds on my HPF Edge that is the same as the day that Dave Dawson blessed it, full size slide no rips tears or cuts. No sign of a crack. I have tried a few limited guns in different configurations had an SVI 9/40 rig with a light slide loved it in 9 hated it in 40 sold it. I love my Fat Boy Edge the best! Precision 185gr bullets and 4.7gr of WST.

I have a new Brazos Caspian lightened slide with Fashion accessory installed on the way, just got the ship notice. Yep going to get a Slide Racker, my grand kids will enjoy it, and I will leave it in the white so they can pick a finish. When and if STI replaces the slide it will go up for sale just like the last one.

I have cracked two STI slides. The facts these slides were tri-topped and had other cuts for weight reduction. They also had an ass ton of rounds shot thru them 50K +. 9 major well yes, but also 38 Super Comps, so not caliber specific. I do have a 9 major with a Caspian Slide, the cone on the comp cracked a few years ago I have another comp in the safe ready when it fails. I had the slide cut very different but the same look and left lots of meat around the chamber back of the locking lugs, this maybe will let me shoot two tons before it cracks. I think this is like the Ford and the Chevy argument. Keep that gun in the safe and the slide will never crack, but take it out and shoot the snot out of it year after year and sooner or later something will break. I am psychic and I can see the future.

Thanks for all the replies, another gun down so I have to get with it now. Been real busy cracking another slide. STI you gonna make me shoot my Glock! Yeah, that's right I have another gun down, but I'll be hitting up STI for a replacement slide. This gun been around a few days, can you say Competitor from the days before the TruBore barrel it came with a big fishing weight comp real heavy, so heavy I put a titanium on it.? LOL I have an email or two out for estimates, on the slide cuts, for the first one, depending on what happens there I might just get the Brazos cut slide with the racker, anyone tried one of those? Not to worry I have a case of 40 bullets and a good un-molested Dawson HPF Edge, just need to order some glasses to see the sights. LOL

I'm looking for someone that can lighten the slide and possible throw a finish on it for a reasonable charge while I'm still young. If they have a CNC set up to do slides just chuck it up and watch the flakes pile up? Just looking to get into the 10.5-11 oz range. It is a 5" Caspian Slide, 2 barrels have cone comps regular stainless steel, have not been cut on before to match the slide. Barrels have been fit to slide and frame and fired in, just need to get the fat off the slide, and possibly cut the comps to match slide.

I’m contemplating refinishing this slide (gun) with NP3+ or Hard Chrome to either slow down or stop the pitting, does anyone have enough knowledge and information on either finish to recommend one versus the other? I believe that Hard Chrome is harder but more brittle and may continue to chip away if not adhered properly to the pitted face; the guys at ROBAR have said that by polishing the surface prior to an NP3+ finish they will guarantee the surface for life from continuing to erode? Not sure if that’s a sales pitch or reality…LOL. You are not going to cure breach erosion with a finish, you need to change your load and probably the primer you are using. If you are shooting major get some MagTech small Rifle primer the hardest one I have found, if you are shooting minor then Winchester is a good middle of the road small pistol primer, Federal's too soft. When it gets a little worse the gun won't go bang! Then you will need to drill out the fireing pin hole to allow it to strike the primer.

I was in relationship prison. I have broken out and am currently on the run. LOL Parole? Or Weekend Pass Dumped the Girl Friend. She gonna miss my cooking.

I was in relationship prison. I have broken out and am currently on the run. LOL

out of all those powders that you have tried, what makes you like the silhouette the best? Ive tried i have tried most of those powders too and silhouette was one of my least favorite. It was definitely snappier than the other powders ive tried. Ive tried hs6, autocomp, 3n37, true blue, silhouette, and cfe. Hs6 was the dirtiest but the softest. Hs6 is still my 1st choice though. Cfe would be my 2nd choice. One of the factors that needs to be considered is the comp being used. Also note that I said my Gun likes it hot. More air for the comp. That said I am running a Dawson Comp (aka Todd Jarrett) the cone variety. Any load I would use has to pass the 50 yard accuracy test. Yes you read that right 50 yards. Then it is off to the timed test stage if you will, I use to use two plate racks. How it feels well if it don't hurt it don't matter, it is about the timer because the object of the game is to go fast. I didn't invent the load, Duane Hemphill did, I was looking for a good load so I traded a few rounds with every other major 9 shooter I could, Duane gave me 10 of his I threw them in a mag, in the middle of a stage I reloaded and OMG it was so suite. Kyle Rejios shot a few rounds out of my gun and said that it was like cheating. In the winter I drop the load down a bit but if I shoot some of the downloaded ammo in the heat of summer I hate it. You also may need to vary you load for effect. I have a 38 Super Comp gun with a Bedel Titanium Comp, which I hated till I pushed a load up to 175-180 pf and then I was great an extra half grain of powder tamed the beast.

I had the feed issue from hell once, but it was one every 500 or so. I finally went with Round nose bullets instead of the JHP, this cured it. After abut 20,000 rounds fed without any issues I switched back to JHP. I've shot with people that are yanking on their slide racker 3 or 4 times a match and when I asked what they were doing about the feed issue they looked at me like I just fell out of a UFO.

I didn't see it anywhere in the post but AA#7 just fill up the case, LOL I shot it with 10GR, and 124gr JHP nice but not as good as Silhouette.. My favorite is Silhouette 7.3gr, yeah my gun likes it hot. HS6, 3n37, AutoComp, N350, IMR7625 and True Blue, are a few that I have tried.

You better give that comp a close inspection, I'm betting there is a lot of lead build up I tired about every coated bullet and they all Cacaed in my Comps.. Since you are going to change bullets be sure to give it the 50 yard test. I tried 115's and never did get them accurate at 50 yards, if you can't stay on an 8" plate not accurate enough. I know all your shots are under 5 yards, lol till you go to a big match! I prefer Silhouette for major 9, 7.3gr with 125gr MTG JHP, or a Zero JHP. Round nose work good and in general feed better. If you want to try poor mans slow powder 10gr of Accurate 7 w/125gr, the case won't hold enough powder to shoot 115. My gun likes it how or maybe I just like it hot 172-175 pf and it flatens out nicely. The idea is to go faster, with that in mind start a fitness program, get in shape focus on your movement skills, and shoot lots of matches. There is no magic pixie dust or powder.

I bought a tupperware Open Gun, Glock whatever for a GF to shoot, I still have it dumped her. I found that AutoComp made a good minor load with 121 gr Montana Golds, and think that I was using about 5.5-5.7gr. A major load is 7.0gr. I loaded these at 1.165. Yeah, as big as will fit the mag. The PF was about 140. With lesser loads the gun did not cycle reliably, I was running an 11# recoil spring. The rest of the gun is all LoneWolf except for the tupperware part, sounds a lot like yours. And that was a tame enough load for a 95# red headed hell cat to shoot. She did well in steel challenge with it, and good in USPSA as well.

Ok curve ball at you. Accurate 7. 10.2gr with 124 or 11.2gr with a 115gr bullet. (38 Super Comp). Accurate 7 is the poor man's N105. Which powder you choose to use is subjective. You shoot it it feels good you go with it. Just like a woman that is why the divorce rate is so high. The correct method is with your timer and making sure the accuracy is there. I never accept a bullet or load until it passes the 50 yard test! If you have an old school comp then you need a powder that takes 10 grains to get to power factor to engage the comp. I have one of those Bedel Titanium comps on one gun and I power it up to 175 pf or more to get it to feel good. My Dawson comped guns can shoot 168 and feel good. So the real answer is try some decide on one, yeah the road of life is paved with dead squirrels that couldn't make up their mind, I recommend the timed testing.

When you develop a load you inspect the spent brass and the primers. If the primer is too flat and yes all 9 major loads except for a couple of the rifle primers are flat but still have an edge, if it doesn't have an edge then its too soft. I would not use the regular Federal Primer at all in an open gun... Breach Erosion. The magnum is a little harder but you still have to check them. My go to primer is the CCI small pistol. Yes get an extended firing pin! I use the Dawson in my guns. I have one of those tupperware open guns as well and the trigger isn't the best but it goes bang reliably with any primer even the hardest of all the MaxTech small rifle.

My load is 7.3gr with a Montana Gold 124gr at 1.165-1.170. Be advised that Silhouette is very reverse temp seensative. It will vary slighlty by lot as well. The referenced load was 166 pf at 113 F and 189 PF at 38 F.

You have to hit steel. Get one load line it up and stick with it. I've had different loads at same pf move POI 6 inches at 25 yards. My preferred 9 major load is 7.7gr of Sihoutte, w 124gr MTG.. I shot black bullets and my drimmel got a workout taking the lead out of the comp, For black bullets drop .3 gr.

Hard times call for drastic measures. No 7625, no WST, no N320 etc, bought what they had Red Dot, not bad, and it smells good. LOL

That looks like a good deal. The gun is old school, so you need a old school load! AA#7, N105. Push the pf up 175 or better. With 115gr try 11.2gr of AA.7 or 10.5gr with a 125gr. To bring this gun out of the 1990's would just take a new comp and cut the slide down to about 10.5 OZ. Things to check: Slide for cracks near breach opening. C-more for cracks. That steel comp is heavy enough it is probably ok. It will take you 6 months go get good with the dot, so shoot like it is for awhile.

Holes in a 9 mm, U could but take it one hole at a time. My logic is if the gun is comfortable to shoot its good to go. If it is too violent then work with the loads and recoil spring if that fails possibly a comp change and finally start drilling. For some configurations like a TruBore or Grandmaster, I immediately start drilling 2 #3 holes. Full case try 10 grains of AA#7 in 9 mm.

David Rey did a good write up on the subject. It was a Brazos gun as Brazos sponsored him, in short the holes improved his time on the timer. There isn't anyone that is more methodical than he. He was a GM at the time. Personally I don't like the holes, too much concussion, however, on a Bedel set up I had to drill it and push the PF up to take the flip out of it. Eric, Mr HELLO, and I both did a lot of comp testing a few years ago, I shoot a Dawson comp in 9 major with no holes, whatever Eric is shooting will definitely work. I've had the opportunity to shoot a couple of the Akai guns, they are as close to cheating as you can get IMHO. When I win the lotto I will get 2. SVI also makes a great gun, as does Brazos, Benny Hill, and for 9 major Sailors custom guns. If the gun builder says drill then go with the holes.

I spent a lot of time developing a shorty open gun in 9 major, at its very best it was not as shootable as a full size gun, but it was very light and easy to swing. You need to shoot about 95% of points on a stage aka shoot mostly A's major or minor, so my advice is to dry fire and shoot A's. I have guns rigged for both 38 Super and 9 major, the recoil difference at the same PF cannot be detected. I've shot matches with minor and major and my scores are about the same. I can shoot the minor a little faster but it does nothing for my movement skills, which is a major part of the game. Use your money on ammo and practice, get serious about movement sills. When you make "A" then treat yourself to a custom gun.

I clean mine from the rear in the slide. That comp should be on with red locktite so getting the torch out every time then refitting and letting it set for 24 hours, not good. I wash the slide with brake cleaner, and the barrel gets copper cleaner.