Ronemus

I like MolySlide by NECO - 60% moly in a medium weight grease. The moly impregnates the metal, and only a barely visible film is needed; it's very slick and durable.

The EEPs are worthless without the skull screws - not enough isolation. I haven't had problems with them collapsing.

Push a new bronze brush through the breech so it enters the brass but not the barrel, then pull it back; the sharp ends of the brush will grab the brass and usually it will come out. I've done this with bottleneck cartridges (easy to feel the brush hit the shoulder), but it will be fiddly with a straight wall case. If that doesn't work, it's probably a job for a gunsmith.

I went for 3M Peltor EEP plugs - basic function, 3 gain settings, rechargeable, no Bluetooth, etc. With the Skull Screw earpieces they are rated for 30 dB of attenuation, and I believe it - no discomfort shooting a heavily braked .338 Lapua. I am pleased. The plain Skull screw plugs attenuate just as well, but I feel closed in after an hour or so. I can wear the EEPs all day (range or chainsaw) and not feel claustrophobic. There are occasional sales on Amazon if you can wait for them.

You'll need the strongest recoil spring you can find - 10 mm has a lot more energy and you'll batter the frame if you use the .40 version.

I like the active plugs (3M TEP-100 with Skull Screw tips) because i feel more comfortable when I can hear ambient sounds. If I use the passive Skull Screws I need to frequently remove them, but I can wear the active plugs all day. I use them when I work with a chain saw and during other noisy activities.

https://autotrickler.com/pages/autotrickler - It's much more accurate, and works with scales that don't have the drisft issues that inexpensive ones do. The scale plus AutoThrow and AutoTrickler will run near to $1k, but people are selling their V3 measures now when they upgrade to the V4. Watch the AccrrateShooter Reloading sale forum (https://forum.accurateshooter.com/forums/tools-dies-rests-reloading-components-misc.11/) for bargains.

a dab of paint or nail polish will do the job

You might want to measure the gap between the feed lips, front and rear; they control the presentation of the round, and can be bent out of shape by rough handling.

For full-power 10mm loads I added a recoil buffer and had custom recoil springs made - I couldn't find any aftermarket springs hefty enough. I also bobbed the ejector to shorten the distance my brass is thrown. With factory springs and a full-length ejector my brass was 30' away which made it very difficult to find. After the mods my brass is 8' away and much easier to find.

I use a different method to mount a full-sized beach umbrella to my Fold-It cart - I use a PVC pipe as a sleeve and secure it to the cart with u-bolts, and use a wood slat between the pipe and cart as a spacer. The umbrella goes through the pipe and is screwed into the ground when possible - that makes for a more secure installation when it's breezy. My umbrella has a joint to tilt it, and that really helps to make the shade useful when the sun is low.

You might want to look at the 3M EEP-100 (~$120 on Amazon). Used with the Skull Screw tips, the noise reduction is very good. There are 3 loudness settings; I would call them quiet, normal and loud. The audio isn't great, but it does the job; muting and recovery are quick. I've worn them for hours continuously with no fatigue, and none of the shut-in feeling that comes with good conventional NRR. These are simple ear protection, and there are other 3M models with additional features at significantly higher cost.

I use Blue Dot for 200 gr full power loads, and it's good as long as you don't mind the muzzle flash.

That's the newest model that is reliable for most folks. Most who try the iPhone10 or newer find that the app works the first time it's used, and fails nearly every time after.

I switched from the CED with IR screens to the LabRadar, and I'm kicking myself for not having switched sooner. The CED is accurate, but the LabRadar is at least as accurate ans so much more convenient. My only complaint is that the smartphone app doesn't work with recent phone (apparently the iPhone 6 is the hot ticket) and Labradar hasn't fixed it in 3 years (they're well aware of the issue).

They chrono should be at least 5' from the muzzle of handguns to avoid false triggering from muzzle blast, and 15' for rifles; you can get closer if you install baffles with a small opening to shoot through.

For full-power 10mm loads I added a recoil buffer and had custom recoil springs made - I couldn't find any aftermarket springs hefty enough. I also bobbed the ejector to shorten the distance my brass is thrown. With factory springs and a full-length ejector my brass was 30' away which made it very difficult to find. After th mods my brass is 8' away and much easier to find.

Auto body plastic primers would be a good bet.

The 3M EEP-100 is rechargeable, has high isolation (30dB) and can be had on Amazon for ~$135 on sale and ~$170 anytime. They're comfortable for all-day wear and don't give me the closed-in feeling that non-amplified plugs do. The only complaint I have is that the Skull Screw tips (high isolation) have to be purchased separately.

A tip for optical chronograph users - get a laser boresighter and use it to set up the screens. All you need is a cheap one - at 15' even a bad one won't be off by much. I have an AR-15 spacegun for Highpower and a Ruger Magnum Precision rifle - both have high sightlines so it would be easy to make an expensive mistake. The boresighter makes the setup fast and easy; you don't have to run back and forth between the bench and the chronograph, and you can be confident that the setup is correct.

Look for holsters that fit a long-slide 1911/2011. I'm using a Bianchi vertical shoulder rig that was intended for a 5" 1911, but removing a few stitches ate the muzzle end has it fitting well; it's at least a dozen years old so I don't know if there is a current equivalent. With soft holsters you should be able to make do; molded Kydex is another story.

It's not worth worrying about. The shot glass is heavy, but only ~1/3 of the scale's capacity. Unless you're loading cannon shells there is plenty of capacity remaining. If you're loading .50 BMG or its derivatives (CheyTac, Barret, etc.), the glass may not have enough capacity; that's the only issue I can think of. I have the V3 Autotrickler and none of the Area 419 "upgrades" look to be worth the coin; for the V1 or V2, maybe it would make sense.

A solution in search of a problem. How would you align the jag with the rifling anyway? The multiple layers of patch cloth make the rifling depth of ~0.004" irrelevant. If you're worried about clean, use a Parker Hale jag; they really engage the bore.

Toothpaste will also work as an anti-fog - just rub it on to a thin film, let dry, then wipe off. This works on my dive mask where none of the commercial anti-fogs I tried would.

A bit of lube on the bottom of the slide will also help; I prefer MolySlide grease (60% moly), but even a light oil will help for a time.