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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About Ronemus

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    Alan Ronemus

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  1. A recoil buffer is also very useful to avoid peening the slide/frame from impact - even with a stout spring the slide is hitting the frame hard.
  2. Full power 10 mm loads will send your brass about 30' away unless you use a much stronger recoil spring. I use custom springs that are the strongest that will fit in the space available, and have bobbed the ejector; that sends my brass 8' away, so there's some hope of finding it.
  3. For most of my gear I use mailing labels - the ones that arrive free in the mail. I can usually find some non-critical surface to stick them to. If I'm worried about theft (large, non-local match), I find an inconspicuous place to put a second label.
  4. I found mine by looking for those that list a fit to a 1911 and/or CZ of similar barrel length. I bought mine over a decade ago, so I don't know it it's still on the market.
  5. I used Brownell's AlumaHyde II and haven't seen any wear on it. Any paint designed to stick to plastic and metal would work.
  6. I spray a coat of paint, then drop playground sand on it. Brush off the excess, then a finish coat of paint for uniform color. That was sufficiently grippy for me, but you can vary the texture by the size of the sand you powder it with. Kitty litter would probably work (haven't tried it) for those who want deep texture. I like the simplicity - much less work than stippling. It's also usable on any surface you can get paint to adhere to.
  7. I use a Vortex Crossfire II 6-24x50 AO on my air rifle because it focuses down to 30 ft. It's generally available for $300.
  8. I use a Vortex Crossfire II 6-24x50 AO on my air rifle because it focuses down to 30 ft. It's generally available for $300.
  9. Wipe it with CLP - a light coat will inhibit rust for a long time.
  10. My Hunter in 10 mm Auto has a 6" slide & barrel, and AFAIK Henning only has conefit guide rods for the shorter barrels. He has a forum here so you may get a faster answer there. You can look on his web site but it didn't list everything the last time I looked.
  11. It can also be caused by bent magazine tubes - be sure that the follower can reach the full up position, especially on the corner where it contacts the slide lock.
  12. You might have an easier time putting a dowel inside the spring; pinning or stamping would likely require a good machine shop. You might have to round the end of the dowels to prevent them catching a coil, but that's probably as advanced as you need to get. A sheet of medium grit sandpaper and a fine saw would be all that's needed.
  13. I worked through this issue and found that it was due to the OAL of my handloads. I seated bullets to the SAAMI specification, which works with round-nosed bullets; however, I was shooting hollow points and FMJ flat points. The magazine was sized to provide very little clearance for ammunition loaded to SAAMI maximum OAL, and the rounds would tend to cock a bit and jam momentarily; this resulted in misfeeds. Try seating 0.020" or 0.030" shorter than maximum and see if the problem disappears. Another thing to check is that the top coil of the magazine spring should be at the front of the magazine; that will apply pressure at the front of the cartridge and prevent it from tipping nose-down. That little problem with my AR-15 drove me crazy for months, although in that application the top coils needs to be at the back.
  14. If you're set up to load long, you can push to 10mm Auto velocities. My 10mm needed a very strong recoil spring to work well with full power loads; I had to have them custom made. Shock buffers definitely help, but I've only found polymer buffers for my application - copper, brass, or aluminum would probably last longer. Be careful shooting beyond the capabilities of your platform - for instance, typical Glocks don't fully support the case and could result in a nasty blowout with hot loads.
  15. I tried an UPLULA, but gave it up when I found I could load faster by hand. I would only recommend such devices to people that have issues with grip strength or dexterity that make it difficult for them to load mags by hand. A bench loader such as you linked may work well enough to be worth the money, but be sure to practice manual loading occasionally so you aren't caught out in a SHTF situation.
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