Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Ronemus

Classified
  • Content Count

    58
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Ronemus

  • Rank
    Finally read the FAQs

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Wisconsin
  • Real Name
    Alan Ronemus

Recent Profile Visitors

446 profile views
  1. I find that RNFP bullets need to be seated a bit deeper than RN - rounds can tip as they feed and the FP can wedge or stick. Seating the RNFP 0.020" deeper cured my problems.
  2. EGW 1-piece sear really improves trigger feel & allows ~2 lb break. Omega grips look great and fit the hand much better than the factory grips. I had custom springs made to tame the rather vigorous ejection, and use a shock buffer to prevent frame battering. The ejector is also reduced to the minimum.
  3. Flat-nosed bullets need to be seated a tad deeper (0.020" shorter OAL worked for me) than round-nosed; the flat-nosed bullets can cock in the magazine and hang up just enough to cause a misfeed. The max length of RN rounds is along the bore axis, but the FN is longer when tipped. It took me a year and a couple of thousand rounds fired to figure it out; in the meantime I'd have a misfeed every 20-30 rounds.
  4. A recoil buffer is also very useful to avoid peening the slide/frame from impact - even with a stout spring the slide is hitting the frame hard.
  5. Full power 10 mm loads will send your brass about 30' away unless you use a much stronger recoil spring. I use custom springs that are the strongest that will fit in the space available, and have bobbed the ejector; that sends my brass 8' away, so there's some hope of finding it.
  6. For most of my gear I use mailing labels - the ones that arrive free in the mail. I can usually find some non-critical surface to stick them to. If I'm worried about theft (large, non-local match), I find an inconspicuous place to put a second label.
  7. I found mine by looking for those that list a fit to a 1911 and/or CZ of similar barrel length. I bought mine over a decade ago, so I don't know it it's still on the market.
  8. I used Brownell's AlumaHyde II and haven't seen any wear on it. Any paint designed to stick to plastic and metal would work.
  9. I spray a coat of paint, then drop playground sand on it. Brush off the excess, then a finish coat of paint for uniform color. That was sufficiently grippy for me, but you can vary the texture by the size of the sand you powder it with. Kitty litter would probably work (haven't tried it) for those who want deep texture. I like the simplicity - much less work than stippling. It's also usable on any surface you can get paint to adhere to.
  10. I use a Vortex Crossfire II 6-24x50 AO on my air rifle because it focuses down to 30 ft. It's generally available for $300.
  11. I use a Vortex Crossfire II 6-24x50 AO on my air rifle because it focuses down to 30 ft. It's generally available for $300.
  12. Wipe it with CLP - a light coat will inhibit rust for a long time.
  13. My Hunter in 10 mm Auto has a 6" slide & barrel, and AFAIK Henning only has conefit guide rods for the shorter barrels. He has a forum here so you may get a faster answer there. You can look on his web site but it didn't list everything the last time I looked.
  14. It can also be caused by bent magazine tubes - be sure that the follower can reach the full up position, especially on the corner where it contacts the slide lock.
  15. You might have an easier time putting a dowel inside the spring; pinning or stamping would likely require a good machine shop. You might have to round the end of the dowels to prevent them catching a coil, but that's probably as advanced as you need to get. A sheet of medium grit sandpaper and a fine saw would be all that's needed.
×
×
  • Create New...