EkuJustice

Or get an SJC mount and you have several different holster options

cold bore custom does a nice job with their "tactical" stipple. Good amount of grip and looks like it belongs on the gun ie more subdued

Factory striker spring and light ie 11 pound recoil spring can cause it to come out of battery. If you go 11 pound and even sometimes 13 pound a light weight striker spring is needed. When going with a light striker spring it is also nice to have an extended LW striker. I like the Jager one best as it actually feels better in the trigger dept. Another spring combo to avoid is an extra power trigger spring and a light striker spring as this dosent always allow the trigger safety to engage. Spring combos to avoid Light striker spring and extra power trigger spring-----dosent always allow trigger safety to reset Light ie 11 pound recoil spring and factory striker spring----can pull slide out of battery Spring combos that work Light weight striker spring, light weight striker ie jager, factory trigger spring, 13 pound(maby 11 pound if you check to make sure the slide stays in battery and keep an eye on it as spring wears) recoil spring

Yes

spartans can be had in the officer and commander size now as well. Put some slim grips on them and they grip is very small

Atlanta arms and ammo will

I usually plan on ending the stage with 1 maby 2 rounds in the gun max. At the end of he stage double tap the last steel and dump it when it runs dry.

1911 requires alot more work than other guns to build. Its gonna need all the parts fit and fit correctly. A 1911 isnt a beginners gun to work on for a from scratch build. I take mine to a smith who does it right the first time. For what he charges its WELL worth it.

Run the montana gold 124 CMJ in mine and can load them past 1.160 in the mags including a taylor freelance bigstick

40, brass is much cheaper

race holster shouldnt take a whole lot of getting use to for steel which is stand and draw. I would bet it could be figured out well in an hr or 2 of dryfire

The problem with the carver mount is how it attaches to the gun using the rail severely limits the holsters avaliable. the racemaster uses the front of the trigger guard to hold the gun which is obstructed on the carver. For kydex, it looks like it would almost need to be molded from scratch as there is alot of extra gun to wrap around at the bottom. The carver mount is nice and easy to install but is not holster friendly

with the carver mount your pretty much limited to the modified cr speed. with the sjc mounts that modify the frame, your opening the door to the ghost, racemaster etc

basketball heaven would be 2 schools in the final 4

just have light shining in my case on my dillion and check for powder when seating a bullet.

Its simple to install both the front and rear. I do finger thight then a little ektra with pliers on the wrench ie just a tiny bit extra. On the rear, I have found you dont need to remove much if any metal on the dawsons like you do on the sevigney sights. Loctite in the grove for the rear and on the set screw. make sure to degrease and dry before using the loctite. glocks are easily done with the tools included. if by chance you need to remove material, sandpaper works well laying flat and rubbing sight over it

Challenge accepted

Glock is a good pistol for 3gun as there is no safety to worry about getting bumped when laying it down. I would also add the mag extentions to 1 or 2 mags bringing your capacity up to 23 rounds. For the scope, the millett dms or the Burris tac 30 or mtac is nice for the cash. the PEPR mount is nice and can be had for approximately half the cost of a larue. I figure im not swapping scopes all the time so as long as it holds the scope solid, im not too concerned about taking it on and off

once your fire it in your STI, your good to go for a reload without rollsizing.

For uspsa where capacity helps get them tuned if you want that extra round. i go untuned and get 23 in my 140s and 28 in my 170 reliable. For 40 im getting 20. For IDPA go stock mags and if they dont work, send them to sti till they do

Either of the 2 are good triggers. I have one of the glocktriggers in my production gun, a vanek in my old limited gun and a fulcrum in one im turning into a backup open gun. They are all good triggers. I would go with the Jager over the glockworx striker. I have felt triggers with them in and can feel a big difference in the jager and both factory and glockworx strikers. the Jager just makes the trigger feel crisper when it breaks.

Either of the 2 are good triggers. I have one of the glocktriggers in my production gun, a vanek in my old limited gun and a fulcrum in one im turning into a backup open gun. They are all good triggers. I would go with the Jager over the glockworx striker. I have felt triggers with them in and can feel a big difference in the jager and both factory and glockworx strikers. the Jager just makes the trigger feel crisper when it breaks.

Have a trubor comp on mine and I had Cheeley add a couple holes to it when he lightened it. Gun is now much flatter

You typicall will have to cover a trap target up with a gun not setup to shoot high. The target is moving up so you need verticle lead. the high shooting dedicated trap gun has that built in by shooting high

Well I just made B in open 3 months after going over to the dark side. I think im starting to get the hang of the dot a little better. Still working on figuring how far I can push it before the wheels fall off though