EkuJustice

Bullet jams back into the case upon chambering causing OAL to become shorter.

A SPP won't do that to a case. Has he checked for major setback? That load isn't too bad and shouldnt be causeing the issues he is having. Without knowing what primer even he has in his loads he dosent really sound like a very experienced or careful reloader. If that is the case, then 9mm Major probibally isnt the place for him to be loading. Not trying to insult or discourage the shooter but 9mm major isnt a load for the inexperienced

Gen 2 frame with the RTF 2 grip texture and an undercut triggerguard and the bigger mag release from the gen 4.

If they limit pretravel in the trigger housing ie screw in the front of the trigger housing the trigger safety would then need to be trimmed to keep it working

just remember to support the "ear" when installing the pin for the trigger guard so you dont snap the other end off

The burris mount comes with 2 sets of ring tops. One set smooth, one set with the rails

swinging target is not disappearing target generally so you have to take it. On a disappearing target, with a no shoot there Im probibally not going to take it

the JM pro930 is ready out of the box with the mag extention. I would go the 24 over the 21 inch if you can find it

I would look at the Burris PEPR mount first. not much more and a nicer mount

You can build one under 1k if you buy right. If you want an optic, the Millett DMS 1x4 or the weave 1x3 are fine optics for the money and the burris PEPR mount will have you set up with glass for 300 or less.

Practiscore is extremely easy to use and you dont really need an IT savy guy to run it. BGSL is using it and its much easier and faster than paper

The kimbers are a pretty good gun IF they have the internal extractor and not the external extractor. The extrernal extractor is junk and was causing problems thus why they quit making it. The parts previously discussed are not series 80 parts which affects the trigger pull. The Kimber safety is deactivated by the grip safety. If you have the Rear sight off, you simply remove those parts and the gun functions like a normal 1911. I had one gun with them that they are removed from after having the part under the rear sight causuing the gun to become a paperweight(looked like it would fire hammer dropped and all but firing pin wouldnt drop as the fp safety was not able to be removed)

I would say part the gun out and sell the frame and slide seperate. The gun with the holes will command a much lower price than an unaltered one. The 22 really isnt the way most would go for an open gun so they probibally wouldnt want it as is. Your best bet would be to sell the slide and frame seperate as the frame would work for a 9mm open gun

I agree never stop yourself unless your willing to accept all Mikes and FTE from that point on. There is nothing in the rule book to tell you to keep going as you can stop at any time you choose. They may or may not offer a reshoot as the activator could have been not activated ie the popper was left standing etc. Its the same for holes in a target. If they are there, keep going as the ro can score them if he can tell which were yours ie your shooting a 45 and there are both 45 and 9mm holes in the target. Unless its a safety issue, keep going till your told to stop

If you just build a new upper, the DPMS 18 inch rifle legth gas system is a nice barrel for the money under 200 bucks and uppers are running about 100

+1 lighter bullets mean more powder is needed to make major. More powder means more gas to work the comp. More gas to work the comp means the gun shoots flatter. The common open bullet is either 124 or 115 grain. For open, covered base bullets ie CMJ which is basically a FMJ with no exposed lead on the base and JHP are also the way to go so your not leading up the comp.

Difference in skeet and trap is a couple holes will generally cause a break. A spinning clay breaks alot easier than one sitting there

check out the nordic handguards in a rifle length. For the gas block any low profile or if you never plan on converting the gun back to the original configuration, cut off the tower off your front sight and smooth it out(its covered by the handguard and then you have a pinned low profile

I run untuned tubes, grams follower and 11 coil spring, and a dawson +1(non SNL) basepad. All hold 20 reloadable and work and have not problem fitting the gauge

does the stippled grips you have tried hurt your hands all over or mainly on the corner of the grip kinda where the side and front meet? Easy way to fix that is to LIGHTLY hit the grip with sand paper to take off just the very tip of the point of the grip. I had one that tore my hand up mainly on the strong hand right at both the nuckels on the corner of the grip. I pass or 2 with sand paper in that area and it feels good, grippy and no longer tears up my hand.

If you start adding sights etc I would probibally just look at one of the 9mm STI Spartans. They come with STI internals, they have an adj rear sight and a FO front from the factory. The brass cost can be an issue as your going to loose brass when you shoot the gun and 38 super isnt cheap. On 9mm you can get your brass and then some back very easily at a match.

File on the feed lips or loose the SNL for some regular +1 pads

I had one like that as well that I asked for a clarification and then it got changed when the RO didnt like how I was going to shoot the stage. Didnt really have time to argue so I went with it but probibally should have as it would have been a nice advantage. I asked on the AM with the door you had to open to shoot the swingers. Was told the door way was free from the ground up till he realized my plan was to hit the dirt and shoot them under the door static.

what kind of gun did you have you were trying to find chokes for?

you adjust the tension but its stilla 2 min job. I know where I want the screw for the tension i want. Screw it in and a couple draws and its set. The Ghost dosent have insert blocks so its one holster per gun. Thats one of the reasons i went with the racemaster is I can have one holster and for 40 mbucks buy a locking block to change it over. For open, I shoot an STI but have a full glock open gun for a backup. If I have a problem, swap the insert block and I can convert my gear over in a few min.