EkuJustice

I would say pick out the type of gun you want and then have an adjustible but pad put on the gun which lowers the pad on the gun. Another option would be a wenig stock(prices arnt bad at all if you can finish the fitting yourself and finish the stock which took me about 45 min to fit a stock to a remington). The wenig new american stock is a very good stock for a tall shooter as it has the drop built in, is cast for a right hand shooter(should be able to make it for a lefty too) and has a long lenth of pull. If you are even semi handy with tooks its easy to fit them to semi auto guns. here is an example of one of the adj butt pads http://www.gunfitter.com/ and wenigs address WWW.wenig.com

Lighter

Those are some old shells there if that is the box they came in my guyss would be at least pre 2001 if that new. The crip looks like someone reloaded it. I use to shoot a bunch of winchester and remington for skeet and have never seen a factory look like that, reload yes. Either way that box hasnt been made anywhere recently and the hulls appear to be the old compression formed hulls which havent been made in a few years. For reloading I always had better luck with the Remington STS

I say if its not broke dont try and fix it. I see the big difference in 3 gun as the open guys have optics on the pistols, more rounds and speedloaders and optics in the shotgun, and bigger comp and multiple optics on the rifle as well as a bipod if they want to use it. The pistol and rifle competitions are more of a shooting contest, the shotgun is more of a loading contest. There is a pretty big advantage in open at the shoots with the long shots when they can run a highpower scope on the gun and a dot beside it for the up close stuff where the tactical optics guys use their one scope for all and make due or use irons on the side. Busyhawk: Some of the problems I see with your Tactical Iron Idea is the rifle would end up being more of a "specialized" gun than the tactical optics gun. Around here I would say there are 20 to 1 ration of collapsible to fixed stocks in any of the gun shops around and I am not sure the last time I saw a fixed stock gun in a couple of stores. SInce fixed stocks are more stable than collapsible what would be the point in banning the collapsible stocks. No compensator or flash hider. Good luck trying to find many guns around here that are not threaded barrels and come with a flash hider or compensator from the factory. The only time I ever see one is if it is a old "ban" gun someone traded in. Also what do you determine for "factory" as far as guns go. In production guns they come from the factory a certain way for the most part. With AR15s, there are so many different factory configurations out there and alot of places factory build the gun with whatever parts you want, free float tubes, match triggers etc. If the goal is to make tactical iron more of a "run what ya got" similar to production then the the restrictions would negate that if the guy wants to shoot his AR he got at the gun shop that has an A2 Flash Supressor and a collapsible stock like most of them have now a days. So now he would need to replace his stock with a fixed stock and get a thread cover for the barrel(is that an external mod?) in order to have a gun he can use for the more basic of the divisions.

I agree loose the bipod and go tactical. The bipod really isnt much of help, just monopod off the mag if need be

Ill be there

the 5.11 blade tech is a good holster for the money. Its avaliable from opticsplanet for a little under 30 bucks shipped

I use a quad for Single stack but that is the only time. I would go a double or 2 singles for 3 gun shooting. I think the most pistol I have had in a 3gun/multigun was like 32 -34 rounds and those were all close hoser paper targets so 2 should be plenty. With all the other stuff you need on the belt keep pistol to a minimim

Or take the easy way out. Honey I am going shooting with steel1212(I am sure he will vouch for you). Leave with appropriate gear that you usually take with you but leave the gun bag empty. Place the newly aquired pistol in the empty gun bag she saw you leave the house with which is the one you always take to the range to shoot. When you get home proceed to remove your new gun from the case and clean it(you didnt think he was going to cover you for nothing) and place it promptly back in the safe. Then go and brag about your great practice session.

Some strange stuff does happen. Guy I shoot with who was a police officer had his house broken into in mid 70s and a bunch of stuff stolen including a custom winchester model 12 trap gun. The guy was caught and when he went to talk with the guy he said he didnt know where his gun went. In 2006 he gets his shotgun back in the original case it was stolen in, perfect contition with the stock and barrels uncut. Talk about luck there

Shooters connection has springs instock

Technically once you put an upper on it it is a complete rifle even if you take it right back off. Just like if you have a lower put a stock on it then 10 min later decide to go the pistol route it would legally then have to be an sbr since there was a stock on it. Stripped lower, parts kit for lower and borrow an upper to slap on it and then take it off and its a complete rifle

Does changing to a lighter spring with a buffer have any effect on the POI of a 1911?

I would say get the sights you want,some trigger work some quality magazines and forget the match barrel and all that. How necessary is a match grade barrel in the first place when we arnt exactly shooting a bullseye match and how many are shooting that well,(fast enough to be competative as well) that a match grade barrel is really going to help them. Maby the GMs and a few TOP Masters? As long as you have decent accuracy and the gun hits where you want it to you should be good to go. Trigger wise you sould be able to get in the upper 2pound-low 3 pound range for pretty cheap using mostly the stock parts with a little work. On a budget there is no need to drop a couple hundred on custom trigger parts and work and end up out 250-300 bucks to get a sub 2 pound trigger pull. You can always add more later if you want to but if your on a budget start with the basics and then go from there. A used Pre series 2 Kimber would be a good place to start as the quality of the earlier ones blows the new ones away.

I have one of the Caspian 35 slides from like Feb-march and it runs 100 percent but it is on a stock glock frame. It took about 10 min of fitting for the barrel to slide it but that was it.

Thanks, I definately look forward to coming from Ky for the match. First whole weekend off in a long time

Ill have to get my camera out and take some of the mags when I get back in town. It is more of a bulge out are more than a traditional lip in the bottom of the mags on the bottom of the inside. I believe its the front of the mag that has an area that kind of protrudes into the body of the mag on both sides. Its not much but its enough to cause Jams. I use #8 followers in mine and ISMI springs made for the +4-5 base plates

Practice? With my schedule and the cost of ammo the matches are the only time I get a chance to pick up the gun to shoot it

When is the registration due by as I cant find out my work schedule till Sunday

I run taylor freelance extentions with ismi 140mm springs and they work just fine and will go 20+1 with the last round a little tight. On mine i had to sand the inside bottom of the mags to remove the lip on the inside of the magazine when I first got them. I started having some problems with the wolff +10% springs and went to the ismi springs and its a much better spring than the wolff and no more problems

Good I guess ill have to get my registration in then

The best way to prevernt them from turning is to use the HIviz comp sight. Install it with some blue loctite and tighten it with the sight cocked at like a 45 degree angle off center. Keep the screwdriver in the screw and push the sight back over to center which really tightens it down in theregood. You can also rough the bottom of the comp sight base up a little so it catches on the rib a little better but I have never had a problem without doing it on any of my guns. I have had hi viz sights on my skeet guns for years and was putting 50K plus a year through the barrels and have never had a sight come loose on me yet.

Had a multigun where they had 2 arrays of rifle targets you could shoot through on tiny port in the middle of the stage, or you could shoot it on the very ends but couldnt get all the targets from the sides and you would have to back out to get to them. I found a spot I could shoot all but 1 target from within the fault lines. I decided to shoot them, place the left foot on the falt line and then step with the right foot off into space and try and hit the target on the way down. Ended up with 2 alphas, and on the knee but got them off before touched outside the fault

Works fine with hollowpoints. I did the usual fluff and buff on it before I shot it then ran 100 fmj through it first. The it is a handful with +p ammo though but it runs fine

I agree, load the belt based on what you need for the stage if possible. Prefer the multigun here so it can equal a full belt especially on the 30+ round shotgun stages. I usually carry the pistol in the usual location, shotgun shell holders in the front and a side saddle on the gun since you can never have enough shotgun shells, 1-2 extra pistol mags (limited gun) and usually 1 extra rifle mag kinda far around on the left side(never used it but nice to have it) I usually will use a suddendeath or beta for the long rifle stages so i dont have to reload the rifle or a clinched mag which i HATE if a mag change is required as its usually faster for me off the gun than the belt for the rifle. Have seen some people carry their full limited gear with 4extra mags and then try to stuff the rest on somewhere. Carry a little extra but dont go overboard