Springfield Champion

I'm not joshin I'm friggin lying. Mini's are usually horrible in the accuracy dept. My friend sent his back to factory and they sent if back to him telling him his was in specs. I foget the group it was giving but it was really out there. He just wasted shipping and took it to the gun show.Something like a 8" group at 50 yds. I didn't know valquartsen made extractors for the pistols. But that is the problem I believe. My old pistol's extractor comes over futher than the new one noticeably so. I guess the channed cut for it to lay in is just off a little. I tried filing my extractor but the same old crap. Its strange it can fire about 70x's between extracton failures but they always come. As far as keeping the chamber clean heck no I havn't cleaned it since I got it, probably 1200 through it. Bolt is lubed. Before you go preaching my old mkll goes a lot futher before I ever think about cleaning the barrel and chamber.Basically I lube the bolt and when I get REALLY bored I'll clean the barrel.

I'm back, the old gun with new parts was 100%. The new mk ll had no light primer strikes either, but I didn't mention it in the first post it still sometimes has ejection problems and they were still showing up during rapid fire not that I think rapid should matter. I stopped, replaced the extractor and plunger with a new one. Still failed with the same frequency. I put my old worn bolt recoil spring on top of the new gun thinking it would give less resistance. This did not help at all. If this standard model with fixed sights wasn't so freaking accurate I would have just sold it but its almost as accurate as my old longer bull barrel thats the only reason I keep it around . Some of the extraction problems the bolt just closed on the round before it had time to get out of the way the shell casing in perfect alignment with the barrel. The most disturbing failures the spent case would be behind the new round which couldn't chamber and stuck between it and the west reciever wall. This ocurred at least 3x's . Any ideas? This happend with it in factory fresh condition and with ruger replacement extractor and plunger, I even swapped out the factory firing pin with a new ruger pin. The extractor spring was not broken but I didn't replace it either. I guess my next try will be my old bot in the new gun. But who wants to buy a $60 bolt, I guess I do if it fixes it. I didn't want to be a parts replacer...........................just a shooter. This crap reminds me of my HIGHLY ACCURATE mini 30's and mini14's I "USE" to own.

The gun with the broken spring was 100% reliable as 22's go,and never any feeding problems. Absolutely no rearward movement of the rebound spring because I tried it but also the bolt that hold the firing pin in will fall out if turned sideways so you know it was under no pressure. I got all new parts and installed them last night. Today I will find out if they are going to be reliable.I guess the new round pushed the firing pin back and it was good enough.It should work just fine with all new parts. If not I know what to do.

I have an old mk ll with which the spring has broke and the leaf it rides on underneath the firing pin is badly worn. It is very reliable. I was shooting a new mk ll and seemed to be having more light primer strikes with it. I was thinking on taking the spring and leaf totally out from underneath the firing pin so as to get a little harder primer strike. Anyone done this before and is there any down side to doing so since on my old model it doesn't push the firing pin rearward at all since its broke.Why did ruger want the firing pin to go to the rear position anyway its not like its gonna turn class 3?

Those are some hot puerto "reekin" grips.

Don't use it, if it backs out again use a small amt. of blue locktite.

Quality control must vary with this holster, I had talked with some people who said it is "only" good for range work. No running or atv rideing, ie carrying it hunting in their opinion. But mine is new and with no tension on the screws it holds my pistol quite snug. After 3 months it will probably be perfect. I don't run anywhere nowdays but I believe it would still be right there if needed. I would not hesitate to take my scoped pistol hunting with this holster. As of now I'm not much faster than with my thumb-break bianchi but I have only 1 session practice with it.Its just a tad more snug than I would like.

I guess it doesn't really matter but the lining in the 002 Safariland is beginning to turn loose from where you reholster. Is it best to just go ahead and cut it away, super glue it down, or just forget about it and wear it off? Also, its a ok feeling holster but as of now its not my natural draw, I'm probably still stuck with some muscle memory from my auto.The safariland seems to ride more on the front hip for me and I may still be use to going futher back and close to my waist.My first comp holster so I don't know anything.

From what I remember reading his book they could hear each other running around and trading hides. So however far a breaking stick can be heard by a ear that truely wants to stay alive??? I'm not thinking a 90 lb NVA breaks sticks big enough to be heard at 500 yds. Answer is you'll never know.

Does USPSA allow the safariland 333 comp 2 holder? Has anyone ever had a 4" revolver that could keep in the same accuracy class as a 6"? I'm not talking speed shooting only pure accuracy. So far my experiences have been the 6" has way better goups by far, the 4" have been good to ok but not in the same class.

Make your rear sight shorter uniformly and if you screw it up then you can get yourself a new set of sights.

Mr Gaston was bright enough to come up with this design to begin with. I think if anyone can improve it he can. Till you hold it in your hands and shoot it how can you really know,but I have a sneaking feeling it will be a little better. As far as looks pretty is as pretty does forget the benchracing asthetics.I love a S&W revolver but a auto from them in my experience "which has been limited" is a joke. I hope the M&P can empty the mag without jamming. Just my .02

Gunsmiths to be great in accuracy or great in reliability or yes? I want reliability built into the gun from factory not a add on option.Thanks I'll take all the info I can get on the xd's.

What can you tell me about how they stack up? I have only used glocks with 100% reliability in two guns and only 1 FTF in 1 on one occasion with several thousand rounds so its hard to beat that. I have no dealings with the xd and never wanted one till now as I don't care for the 21 SF feel so I was feeling around for the xd and it feels good in the hand but is it reliable? I've had a lemon from Springfield in the past but it was a rifle but tart none the less.Bottom line are they good pistols or just ok? Looking for real world experience not the shiney glossy ads in the gun books that taunt and promise everything. Thanks for any info.

Using only cheap o wolf and cci as that is what I can afford. A 35 came in with 1.75" and A 22 and 23 were pretty much the same with 3". I may try some wwb to see if the groups get any better. I think I had just as well shoot the 23 since it "seems" to be as accurate as the 22.