CJDOUBLETAP

I've never heard of toilet paper before. For my football cleats I newspaper. I'll have to give toilet paper a try that way I won't have to bring my cleats home after a wet football practice/game.

For question # 1 in the first post. Some people believe that you have to load very hot to get the comp to effectively work, that's not the case. In my testing of loads through my STI Trubor I have found that the powder type is the difference maker. I only used two powders, IMR 4756 and VV N105, but I can really tell the difference between them. I think that the slower burning powders that require more powder per case work the comp better because they produce more gas than fast burning powders. On a plate rack I can cut off about .3 seconds per run with VV N105, it works the comp a lot better and is slower burning. My steel load with 4756 is 6.2 grns. and with N105 it is 7.7 grns. VV N105 is really hard to find though... Thats my thoughts. BTW- Congrats on A class Nick. Craig

"Don't fix it if it ain't broke"

Homework?! School is for school, Home is for no school.

Here ya go. Thanks for the advice Derek45. Oh ya, forgot to add, I just did the front strap and under cut. The rest was done by Bob at Brazos Custom.

Alright, would someone be kind enough to help with the pics? I'll email them...

We gotta have pics Craig! Yeah, no kidding! LOL, I new someone would ask. I'm not exactly sure how to post them but I'll take some and try to figure it out.

Thanks G-ManBart, I used your instructions to give my grip a double-under-cut and stipple the front strap. It worked like a charm. I greatly appreciate the instructions that you were willing to share with me and the other forum members. Thanks, Craig T.

Sweet, My High School gets out in 28 days. Non-stop shooting and football work-outs after that.

Ya, 10 rounds for open too, I think he already posted it somewhere.

cause we're frikin crazy. no really; two reasons. 1. in order to slightly reduce the size of the grip, becasue in some instances, the texture of stippling will raise it back to factory size. 2. cosmetics and control. Stipple patterns look better often times when made on a smooth surface. There are also patterns that are best made on top of smooth plastic, without any extra plastic to mush and gush around. Thanks, I'll have to give this a go if I can find a good deal on a grip.

I think that the most important part in the rig is the belt, get a CR Speed. Then get a Blade-Tec DOH holster and your desired amount of CR or Safariland mag pouches. You can get all of that stuff from shooters connection for a reasonable price.

Why do you guys remove the checkering?

Nice, they look very creative. Lets just hope the heat isn't so intense this year. I'm definitely not wearing a black t-shirt again... Can't wait, Craig

+1 Just make sure what you get will feed. Try to avoid flat points. As for the bullet weight, the lighter bullets will give you a more snappy feel. The heavier bullets will give you more of a sluggish slower feel. I use: 125 JHP Zero 4.0 grs. Tite Group 1.130 OAL 134 Power Factor, I think 5" XD9

I don't think I have ever seen a green fire truck in real life.

Nice. I dig Doug C's Big Dawg hat in the first pic. Gonna have to get me one of them...

Mine came out with blue loctite. After looseing a couple I took them all out and black maxed them. I figured that I won't be taking off the mount any time soon so...

I prefer red. I would choose based on what color of props and back-set you have by the targets. You want good contrast. I loose the green in grass and very bright light easier than the red. My 2 cents.

I've seen this happen to a 617 before. I would get a new screw and tighten it as hard as you can with a little bit of green loctite.

Ya, your probably right about the problem being in the spring/follower. It just seems odd how the jams are in the last couple of rounds. Try putting the stock STI springs back in them. They will be stronger, that is the only thing I can think to do since the spring pressure pushing the rounds up is greatly reduced when the mag is near empty... If you can make out what I said... Might work. Craig

If you are going to shoot plate racks a lot I would have 4 or 5 170mm. The extra weight helps a ton with the recoil and transitions don't really matter for plate racks. For IPSC get 1 or maybe 2 170s and at least 3 140s. For Steel Challenge get all 140s, at least 5. BTW- you will be able to reload a ton faster with 140 mags. Craig

Well, its probably the mag. When I get mags where rounds don't feed very well, I polish the feed lips with a stone. If that doesn't work get a very pristine piece of brass, load it into the mag, then slowly take it out. Check it for scratches. Also measure the feed lips with some calipers. I'm guessing that your talking about 40 cal mags, the feed lips should be about .380-.390 apart with slight tapper from front to back. Craig

Ha, this is kind of funny. For my geography class we have to look up news articles and present them to the class, this was the one one of my friends had. It wasn't the actual bra that stopped the bullet, is was the giant wad of cash that she had stuffed inside the bra that stopped it.

I'm guessing pretty long, I got one of the Dawson mag tuning kits a while ago and now realize why most tuned mags cost a fortune. Adjusting the tube and feed lip dimensions is a major PITA, for me anyway... They do work good though... Craig