Loves2Shoot

I tried it, but realized after some experimentation that it caused me too much anxiety and I actually shoot faster if I see green (fiber optic color of my choice) in the notch rather than looking through the sights. It also keeps me from leaving the target early which I tend to do when I end up point (index) shooting. I've never trusted it at 7 yards, 3-4 max. I think it could work if you have a great index and practice a lot, but at those distances I can see faster than I can pull the trigger.

I shoot the Tri-brid in my open gun, but there are a few mods that seemed to stabalize it. One additional port between the factory ports, so 7 holes instead of 6, and then 3 small holes on each side of the 3 ports at the end of the barrel (where the rounded part meets the part that goes up.) My gunsmith recommended this after some prototyping he did and it seems to work well without the added weight of more comp.

After you establish your grip (if you are thinking about it at all you need more practice) it should never be in doubt you have the perfect grip for you. Do a search there are volumes on this, even pictures floating around. 1. Find the target 2. See the sight picture you need to see to call the shot 4. Break the shot 3. Watch the sight (dot) lift 4. Repeat for every shot until there are no more targets or you are out of ammo Remember there are no "tricks" to shooting fast. It is something that comes from reacting what you see, and training your body to react to your vision. The faster you learn to call every shot, the less hesitation you will have when breaking shots and that is where true speed comes from, doing no more than is necessary to put your bullets where you want them. Ps. READ Brian's book, it is worth ten times what he charges.

Some things don't make a difference, that doesn't mean they are "Bad." Somethings I thought made a difference: 1. Trigger pull 2. Gun Weight 3. Mag well 4. Holsters 5. Mag pouches 6. Guide rods They don't seem to mean squat when it comes to performance. There are many that are good enough and won't win or lose a match for you. Is a stationary front sight a "magic bullet" that will make you shoot better, I doubt it, because we can't react fast enough to make it important. The sight is at the front of the gun in .05 and .1 is the best split I've ever had so it takes at least twice as long for me to react to the sight as it is moving. Just 'cause someone wins a match with X equiptment, there will people people who go buy that, but it doesn't mean that the equiptment had squat to do with their performance if it functions 100% of the time. BUT ... if YOU think it will make you perform better, it just might

I prefer the squre deal to the 550, mostly because the auto index, if you are just going to reload pistol ammo. I'm a fan of leaving them set up, like you suggested.

I had one and it didn't work that well for me. The Dillon works much better in my opinion.

As long as they are fit the same I would recommend adjusting a load for his pistol also.

My vote would be for the Sig P226 with the steel frame and guide rail . The first shot sucks, but Bruce Gray can fix that, and the the thing is by far the softest 9mm I've ever shot, hardly any felt recoil. It isn't cheap though, but then again you get what you pay for The Glock 34 is the economical choice and a good gun too.

If you get a double stack you can compete in both L10 and Limited if you want to. There are a lot of good used guns in that range. Reloading a double stack is a tad easier. I like the SS for the fit and cool factor of being "the" classic pistol

Sweet racing grove, you have to love hardchrome

Burning rounds is a waste of $ in my opinion. Just because you are putting rounds downrange doesn't mean it is helping your improve where you need it. If I were in your shoes, I'm not, I THINK I would focus on dry fire and show up early for the match and practice before the match a few things. Practicing after the match wouldn't do me much good. Being that far from a range would get me loking for somewhere to shoot. I complain about the 10 minutes it takes me to get to a shooting area.

As far as out of the out of the box reliablity I don't have the numbers, but every .40 SS I know runs, can't say the same about .45's, but then again, there are 10,000 .45's to every .40 Hmm, sort of like buying a Corvette and putting racing tires on it if your goning to put a few laps on the track. If your gonna race it (or trust your life on it), get a tune-up, sort of like putting a 3.5 disconector in a Glock, you don't neccesarily need to but it isn't a bad idea IMO. That is why it's a must on any race/carry gun IMO to make sure it is perfect regardless of how well it was made. $100 having someone fine tune a factory 1911 isn't the same as scraping it and doing a rebuild. The $ you save in ammo will (even with the more expensive mags) will be huge from .40 to .45 if you shoot it at all. Save a penny spend a dime. If you are looking for cheap you have to add in the biggest cost of shooting, which is the shooting of projectiles

I disagree on the whole reliablitly thing. .40 is so much cheaper to shoot unless you like .45 I wouldn't hesitate going that route. As far as out of the box goes, every competition gun, or carry gun, should be sent to someone who knows what the're doing as soon as you take it out of the box. http://www.trippresearch.com/products/40sw/40sw.htm All you need to know as far as mags go, and for the same price as good 10 round .45 mags. I've seen too many spend $10-15 for a mag that craps out that would have rather spent the extra $10 for Wilson quality mags. That being said I think everybody should have at least one single stack .45 for posperity sake, but for competition, .40 is the way to go IMO, and yes I have a $2000 single stack .45

It happens to most. When you are having fun shooting, write down why you like it and what you've learned, then when you want to bag it go back and read what you wrote when you were enjoying shooting. That helps me when my hands hurt and my neck aches from stinking practice. If you really want to shoot, make yourself get out there and pull the trigger. Generally, after a mag or two downrange, I remember why it is fun. Expectations is a killer of fun, just shoot it!

I think I know what you mean, and I carve out all my grips to accomidate that knuckle, good old dremmel , my hands aren't fat enough to have them not hurt unless I do this. I do have a fairly good caulous there now, but when I shoot a gun that isn't fit for me it hurts fairly soon. It may not look as pretty but then again it works, so I do it.

You can't make a bad choice from this point from what I've seen.

If I lose the dot, I just look for the knob and the dot magically appears

Do you chamber check all your ammo? That happens sometimes, when I shoot my "no go" ammo.

using a .233 bullet works fine

Sorry, if I gave the wrong impression, I just like to know why. I was hoping for some reasoning other than feel. I know every time I pick up a new gun it seems easier to see the sights, but I think this is due to the fact it is "new" to my vision so I focus more, not that it is inherintly better or worse. I've spent thousands trying to figure trick things out, so I'm just asking questions that seem to make sense to me. It doesn't mean I have the answers, just lots of questions

If you fix the sight on the end of the barrel it moves more visually, just like BE observed. You can't see the sight coming back toward you when you watch it, the only motion you can really see is the sight bobbing when shooting (the vertical movement.) That being said, if you put the sight fixed on the end of the gun you increase the "bobbing" effect, not reduce it, so you are actaully making the sight harder to track if you increase the movement by leaving it on the end of the barrel, right? The sight is always at the end of the gun when you break the shot, and on steel and harder targets that is not a factor because the time you need to stop on the target, so how could increasing the motion of the front sight be faster on those targets?

Yep, I tried to make that point

If you were shooting many shoots on one target that would make sense, but with IPSC shooting we shooting many targets, so we never really need a fixed focal point because our eyes are moving target, sight, target, sight, target, so in theory we are always keeping our eyes moving and a fixed focal point doesn't matter, and since the front sight is always at the front of the gun when you pull the trigger, that is fixed anyways. If I were to build a new gun I would probably use the barrel because I like the way it looks, it has way cool factor, but I can't see how it would make you shoot faster.

Watch the top guys, several do it the way you described, several bring the weakhand to the gun, both are effective, so if it ain't broke... What matters most is it works for you and you trust your draw. If you can't get a consistant grip, try tweaking it, but if you do get a good grip then it ain't broke. You will round everything off anyway when it comes down to it. Everybody is made a little different, for some getting the weak hand over makes sense, for some it doesn't. The difference is not measurable on the timer, it is a matter of comfort and consistency.

How? I would love to hear why, not just that it will. Everything else being the same, the rear sight is still moving and as the rear sight moves away from the front sight (not that you could actually see it) would change the proportion (how big) the front sight is in the rear site. You will get more sight bounce with the sight on the end of the gun in recoil, that is given, so your comparing it to an open dot with the dot leaving doesn't really work. As the gun recoils and the slide comes back the FS stays lower in line than if it where on the end of the barrel, just look at any picture of a limited gun in recoil. Since your head is behind the gun, there is less flip in the sight if it moves with the slide unless I am totally missing some secret formula.