Loves2Shoot

Then you have to buy two barrels If you follow Benny's advise you only have to have one fitted.

Before you file anything, use a piece of tape on the front sight to see how much you have to take off. Some people just don't know how to aim and the sights might be fine and then you have to buy a new front sight if you file the thing off for the wrong reasons. Many people shoot low because they anticipate the recoil.

You are going light with a full dust cover? Are you going to get it really milled out or something? I like the bull barrels because they displace heat better so when I practice I don't have to worry about the heat in the .40. It also gives me a sense of safety in case something weid happend. Bigger is better right?

I would make sure Idon't over think it and let it get under my skin. There is nothing to be gained on this stage really. C hits are acceptable for me at 50 limited in a match situation. I would step up, draw the gun at the buzzer and see a good sight picture and take 3 GOOD shots, reload and start taking good shots until I heard the buzzer. The thing about planning to take only 1 shot after the reload is it limits you and you aren't letting your vision make your decisions. I find that letting my vision decide what to do usually works out better than over thinking things. This is a nothing stage, and you can shoot, let the shooting take care of itself and keep your brain out of the way and you'll do fine on the stage.

You make perfect sense, and I agree 100% It is like putting an * beside your name if you win and can't be competing against the best of the best because they are shooting a different division.

Please try doing searches.

It's about the logo folks SVI just looks cooler They all are capable of shooting better than we are

What is engaging? Isn't it getting ready to shooting at targets? How can a target get a hole in it if it isn't engaged first? He may not have "intentionally" engaged the target, but I don't see that in the rulebook. I know I've NEVER intentionally engaged a no-shoot, but I've hit a few and I've still gotten my -10 as a result of an un-intentional engagement. No DQ there.

What about barrels, grips, mags, sights, safeties, guide rods, triggers, ect. that fit both? Hmmm. I like SV best too, their logo is cooler

They are awesome! They work with about any mag.

Not good, but not a DQ IMO. Not an AD per the rule. I've seen plenty of people point shoot targets without having the gun at eye level, heck I've seen people looking the other way hosing the last target in an array and getting their hits. Unless the act is grossly unsafe, I don't think you could get away with unsafe gun handling in arbitration, especially is he got his hits on target. I sure as heck would kick in my $ if someone tried to DQ me when I hit the target because they thought I was unsafe and not in control of my gun. That is too subjective. I have to disagree with Flex on this one. On the transfer thing, if I have the gun in my hand enough to pull the trigger and hit the target, I am not transfering it, it is transfered.

Been doing it for years, I couldn't shoot limited without it. I only use a piece about 1/2" square just to knock out the duplicate front sight. If I'm in a weird spot I close the left eye, just in case the tape wouldn't knock out the shadow sight.

I wonder who volunteered to stand beside the ballons. That is amazing.

hmmm, I have about 90K through mine and (70k from the owner before me) and the slide is fine, just had it hardchorme last year. When I shot open I shot about 30-40k per year. I've lost a barrel lug and a safety in that time, but no problems with the slide. PS. I've always shot 124's or 125's

Only in production, but your single action gun can't play there. If you could win with minor no one would shoot major. For example, you are toast on upper A/B zone only targets at any distance and partials are much tougher to score on, when you can afford C's with major, they really hurt with minor.

You can get great S_I's all day long for 1500-1600 in the classifieds I've bought 2 SVI's that way, one for $1250 and one for $1300 both barely even broken in, saving me the cost of break in ammo

What he said, don't try a 1050 unless you are ready to buy a 1050

$1040 on your Glock 34/35 Isn't that the same price as a SV? Wow! So much for Glocks being cheap limited guns Nice setup!

Heck, switching loads, no way. I don't think I've changed my toolhead in at least 3 years for my .40. A jacketed bullet shoots close enough to my moly bullet and have the same profile. Bad juju in changing anything on my toolhead.

9mm should work just fine if it is made right and your mags are good. If you are going to to shoot both IDPA and USPSA a .40 wouldn't be a bad choice if you got a bushing barrel it would be legal for USPSA Limited and L10 and IDPA. If you are going to be strictly IDPA 9mm would be the way to go because of bullet cost, and the biggest cost in shooting is the shooting.

Ditto to what Flex said, the cost in competition shooting is the shooting itself. If $$$ is an issue you need a 9mm because once again the cost of shoting is shooting. Especially when you are starting out, you can get used to the recoil and calling your shoots easier with a 9mm. It is easier to adapt to recoil once you have good technique and confidence in calling your shots. Plus you will have to shoot for points shooting minor so ou avoid the new shooter trap of "hosing targets." Sorry to have to so vehemently disagree with the shoot what you have crowd, but this is the advise I wish I would have been given when I started out. BTW I started out with widebody .45 and I could have saved so much $$$ if I woud have started out with a 9mm until I figured out what I really wanted (full blown race guns )

Bart, Where could 9mm be competetive in? Production is more a class for 9mm than non-single action guns. If you want to shoot your 40 at full power, shoot it in L10. It is practically the same division except for the power factor and silly mags holder/holster placement rules.

At first I documented everything for a couple years, until I realized how much $$$ I was spending. Then I gave up on the documenting idea. I read BE's book and went from A (stuck there for 3 years) to M in two months, shooting fewer rounds, dryfiring more, and calling my shots. It really is pretty simple. SEEing is BEing.

Hey Vince, If you see your holes, even 45's, you are going too slow

9mm and 38 super (a 9mm magnum for all practical purposes) both shooting minor at the same power factor are just as accurate. It would be like asking which is more accurate a 357 magnum (shooting minor) or a 38 special. Same bullet, same velocity, same accuracy. The only negatives if you are shooting minor would be in .38 super, and that would only be brass cost. 9mm is the ticket for shooting minor. If you don't like it you could always re-chamber it to 38 super. ps. the mags for 9mm work fine with the spacers.