Loves2Shoot

Way to go Shred!

OBVIOUS MODE ON If you have to make up a shot (regardless) in a standards stage, you are screwed anyway... at most it is usually about .65% - 1% difference in the HF if you make it up quick and on the right target, or you can do like me and make it up on the wrong target, get a miss and extra hit, down 25 to start.

They aren't a big deal if you pay attention. You just make lots of noise when you hike around in the bushes and they tend to stay out of your way Snakes are generally shy. It is much easier to kill them than it is for them to kill you.

231 and lead bullets = smoke screen We call people who shoot this combo engineers, because it looks like the are driving a freaking choo choo train Do not even attempt shooting this load indoors.

Generally, drills are measured by A zone hits @ 7-10 yards depending on the person. You would see a lot faster times for hits on paper. .65-7 for a quick draw @ 3 yards isn't uncommon.

It can't be done fast and it isn't all that easy until you practice it a bit, and then it still isn't easy You have to fill the tube, rack the bolt forward (about 1/4 of the way) and push the carrier down, then tuck a shell under the bolt (make sure the bolt is over the rear of the shell, and then load one in the chamber and release the bolt. I I wanted to be a serious 3 gunner with my Benelli M1 I would buy a longer tube, much easier and you can reload as many as you shoot.

But why not try to apply Open-knowlegde to Standard or Production? Because in standard and production you have a greater error rate, and a miss or no shoot is a LOT worse than a D.

I shoot 200's and a heavy gun and it feels slow, but the sights barely leave the notch using a RM. It feels sort of like a sling shot compared to a light gun, but you barely have to hold the thing, and to me the more relaxed I am holding the gun the faster I shoot. I don't understand the whole problem stopping on a target thing with a heavier gun I've never really noticed a difference on the timer. I think some call snappy quick and sluggish slow, but the gun cycles so much faster than we can shoot it that it really doesn't matter. You can go as far as you want with any gun, Rob Leatheam shoots a 5 lb limited pistol (exageration but close.) As long as it runs 100% and you like the sights and trigger the rest is insignificant.

Saul is one of THE best, but for the average even above average shooter getting a scoring hit will factor better 95% of the time. I've lost too many points trying to sqeeze A's and been 1/8" off. Generally when I miss a hardcover or no shoot target it is within 1" of scoring. Being a "A" whore has cost me more times than I care to think about, especially when I went from open to limited. With open guns you can really go for the A's much easier because the sights don't cover up the target. I will try to aim for the center of the scoring area shading a hair towards the A zone. Like with upper A/B zone shots I'll aim a hair high, but I'll take B's I don't waste the time trying to get the perfect shot because it is just too slow generally. Shoot production or minor is a totally different matter.

Ditch the SS and get hardchrome. I would either go with a Kimber and have a smith trick it, or my preference would be to have a smith build one for you with Caspian slide and frame and all the goodies you want

Discussions like this are great for us pre-Jedi's who can't even quote a single rule by number Thanks BDH!

I know, but if one shot takes down 2 targets isn't that REF? Why would it not be, it is not the shooters fault, and how can he shoot at a target that isn't there? It seems you are saying you should just smoke one round in the general direction of where the target was if it is knocked over. I don't think you should penalize the shooter for not shooting at a target that wasn't there

I think you might be missing the fact that you can't penalize someone for NOT shooting at a target that wasn't there (ie. steel blown down, splater knocking it over or re-set) because it is range equiptment failure if the target is not present to be shot at.

YOUR choice, but if I get to pick.... you engaged one target and knocked it down, so you are good there. OTOH, a fragment hit another target and knocked it down.... you did not engage it, so under the rules previously quoted....... ...and then I say range equiptment failure, please give me a reshoot.

So, as a competitor, you see someone's score beat the "real" super squad by 15% how would you even start to arbitrate that? Do you plop down your $100 and say I don't think he could have beaten EVERY one of the best shooters in the WORLD by 15%?

It happend at last year's Infinity Open (stage 1 I think) and at Nationals and they both stood.

That would have been great to have years ago. I like one way how Frank Garcia does skill gauging. Fixed time, but further away for each class level. A simple yet effective way to measure your skillz, or lack of

Being flexible real helps. You can widen your stance to easily do this for most mid range ports. You can get really low if you put your weak side leg forward and lean way forward.

Yep, I guess that makes my 6.06 second 52 point run about 100% On some of these things you can go fast enough to drop a few points and still come out ok. Btw I shot it straight up, no trickery, just standing arms length from the barricade right side first - inside out, left side - outside in. I let er rip, all the splits were dang near identical.

That really depends on your grip and how much you rest it on the frame, if you have a firm neutral grip with your thumb on the frame you won't drive it at all. If that weren't the case you wouldn't see the all those open blasters with thumb rests I think that is one of those things you can or can't do depending on whether or not it is a problem for you, similiar to the finger on the trigger guard. For some it works better because you can get a bit better grip getting the weakhand index finger out of the way more. (Jerry Barnhart and that French guy both still use that technique) I find the way my hands work that my thumb rests in one of the groves on my frame, but I don't put sideways pressure on it. It is just the way it ends up when I put everything else where they need to be.

Why?

It sounds like a piece of steel was already down and the shooter just kept going. As a shooter I never stop unless the RO tells me to, I learned that the hard way (a whole array wasn't taped so I stopped and the RO says, the clock is tickin') If the RO and the score keeper didn't see it, he gets his score. That sounds like the case to me.

Is the left wrist locked forward? Take your hand like you are gripping your gun and have someone grab it like they are going to shake your hand. Then have them pull up on your hand. If your wrist is locked out, it will be easy to keep your grip, if it is not your grip will break easily. (Trick taken from Ron Avery's video) You can only tell so much from a picture because people are built different, but if you can get the "lock out" you should have a stronger grip with much less effort. Personally, I think griping with the last 3 fingers on the weak hand is the most crucial to recoil management, I barely even grip with my weakhand index finger. As long as the gun recoils the same and you don't drop it you are probably doing it ok. If the gun recoils differently each time you grip it, you most likely need a grip doctor

The HF for that time and points is more like 6.33.

The Kobra is sweet, I have one on my tricked out ak and it is awesome, it really returns to zero and the various sights work well, I like the tiny dot the best but it is really fun and reliable.