MemphisMechanic

I will continue to shoot a plastic one. No interest in steel.

I personally think it’s important to accept the limitations of the system: MPXs are gas systems and they will always be softer. Accept that. I see too many blowback guys chasing shoft shooting guns and ammo, when dot movement is what matters. All that matters. The gun is going to kick harder. Accept that, and focus on tuning the buffer/comp/ammo/springs to keep the muzzle stationary during controlled pairs. The “soft” rabbit hole gets guys trying really light ammo that won’t run their heavy 308 recoil springs and all manner of other problems. You’re a grown man. Firing a handgun from your shoulder. Even a blowback with snappy recoil is plenty easy to shoot. If you want a true AR platform rifle instead of an MPX that eats parts and you want half the recoil of a flat short-stroked blowback gun, you need to be looking at the CMMG Guard. Mine is running like a swiss watch (after plenty of trial and error) and it’s fantastically soft compared to a JP with short SCS and the same ammo.

@NPDriver what are you running in your Guard’s bolt/buffer system? After 6 months of changing things once a month, I’ve gotten my 14.5” gun pretty much dead flat. Hammering 4 shots at 10yd puts them all about 2” apart. Hydraulic 5oz buffer meant for a .308 carbine, JP 308 rifle spring, a wave spring and a short-stroking spacer in the back of the buffer tube. Curious if you’ve done much tuning to the recoil system. (Sure is jarring to go back to your buddies’ blowback guns though isn’t it? So much recoil. )

On the charging handle... waht do you run? My Raptor is just long enough I can either blade my hand or make a fist, and hook it with my index finger. Lets you hit it on fly to rip the charging handle back. If you have to stop and grip the thing, change what you run.

It’s a tradeoff in all shooting; my production gin was a Tanfoglio Stock III for a year. a heavy steel pig with a chunky rail up front that added a lot of weight. At 45ish ounces, the Stock 3 and the CZ Shadow 2 are heavier than most 1911s. They’re incredily easy to mow down a 20yd plate rack with, even if you don’t grip hard. The gun is inherently stable. I have gone back to polymer (Walther Q5) for Production and you need to grip hard and work harder to drill distant targets, but it’s so much faster to whip across an array of point-blank paper and mow them down. Running and gunning is far more effortless. Less muscle required. Same here. My PCC is very light out front. Although I kept the weight in back for balance reasons (6lb 0.2oz total) it definitely is more nervous in recoil. The CMMG Guard upper was .750” wall and had a heavy quad rail on it when I first shot it. The gun weighed 7.7 lbs and was very stable and fairly flat. Turned 9oz off the barrel (.750 down to .625 full length) chopped two inches off it’s length, and went to a 10oz lighter handguard. Suddenly it was harder to shoot controlled pairs. So off we go tuning the buffer system. Once I got her dialed in with ammo and buffer/spring/short stroke to shoot laser flat? It’s great. But. I still can’t be lazy. If you lean forward, get low, and grip the gun hard between a thrust-forward shoulder and a hard forearm grip? It’s flat as heck... but if it were still heavy out front it would probably be downright astonishing.

I personally like getting it up on your shoulder for the entire procedure. That’s where all of that is always done otherwise. Also more conducive to doing these tasks while moving. (note: my rifle is absurdly light out front. Controlling it with firecontrol hand only and running is much easier than a noseheavy JP.) Play with them both, I think they’re equally fast if practiced hard. It’s roughly the same amount of total movement either way.

Leave that magazine behind. Heh heh heh. (Orrrr? If your magwell permits it and the table cooperates, this is generally pretty damn fast. If you aren’t running colt mags which need a jackhammer to seat them.)

There are only like three guys shooting PCCs left in the country who can lock their bolts back. Everyone else is short stroked.

@jkrispies definitely. I also think it’s faster to load off your belt than the table with a rifle. Snap it to your shoulder then execute your most practiced reload, all while instantly leaving the table behind instead of lingering a little bit. This depends on a lot of factors however; like how long your first movement is. I’m presuming you can’t see a target for 5+ steps.

Good! About time. The only downside to a JP is how heavy they are out in front. Their knurled handguards feel fantastic, if only they were half the weight.

They sell tanfoglio slides for nearly the price of the complete gun. Good luck with that. $100 is going to look downright fantastic after you price it through EAA.

They’re all 12 pounds of suck. If you don’t want to do a trigger job, or pay for one, buy the steel framed walther and skip Tanfos. (The triggers in my Prod and CO Walthers are still stock)

You can have my wife long before I’ll give up my my bullet feeder. ...We divorced 9 years ago, so claiming her is gonna be a bit awkward. But you can still have her first.

Wow. Come on man. Just file 1/10” off the sight’s sides in 5 mins and be done. Don’t call anybody just do the obvious thing. (I had to mill the LPA rear on the Walther Q5 deeper, and open it .10” or so with files until I was happy. It’s nonreplaceable too.)

Paint the ejector with a sharpie. Cycle the charging handle a few times and look for places where it has turned silver due to contact with the bolt.

If you run a rifle tube and a carbine buffer, your gun has too much stroke and the gas key can crash into the upper the moment you have much gas dialed in at all, or change to ammo that’s just a tiny bit hotter. He’s suggesting you put enough spacers in there to prevent this contact and then adjust to keep the buffer from contacting them. Barely. And the spring has nothing to do with bottom out. When the buffer runs into whatever is behind it, the spring wrapped around the buffer still has 1/4” to 1/2” before it goes solid. The buffer does the bottoming out instead. (Even the long heavy *.308 rifle length* spring I run in my 9mm carbine doesn’t go solid or coil-bind before the buffer hits the back of the tube.)

Glad they help so many!! Every overtravel screw should be removed and discarded. IMO. Just a malfunction waiting to happen someday when your loctite works loose, and they do nothing to improve the trigger except in very slow bullseye shooting. You’ll never notice it’s absence once the buzzer goes off! Deleting it is a feature, not a bug. Run without it.

I sold quite a few things on here this year. I’ll be kicking in $50 or so in a paycheck or two. Thank you for continuing to run this site!

@aalbert aaaaaand this site butchered your link!

If anyone needs a barrel modified to take longer ammo on the cheap, PM me. I know a guy who can do it. Even with the barrel still installed in the upper.

I enjoy really well thought out IDPA stages a lot. Particularly when they have cleverly thought out options. On the other hand, guys like that make me really enjoy shooting USPSA the majority of the time. The SO’s who have a mindset of forcing every shooter to execute the stage in exactly the way they envisioned - and their intent isn’t immediately clear when looking at the sceanrio.

What is controversial about this? Stock is on belt. Like usual. Weak hand is in your preferred grip on the handguard. Usual. Strong hand is simply relaxed at side, instead of on the pistol grip with your thumb ready to flick the safety off.No other division gets to start with a firing grip on the gun. Why should PCC? Makes plenty of sense to me. It’s more equitable, not less.

Good. Get a new one then and promptly wash it. With rocks.

I’d grab a gun with a department name in it in a heartbeat. ... But I treat glocks slightly better than a hammer. I think pristine glocks make you look like a tool... they really need more silver than black showing on the slide in order to look like the combative tool that they are. And something with random engraving in the slide isn’t worth crying over when it gets chipped and scratched.

Buy the fully prepped G24 in the classifieds instead. You’ll save several hundred dollars that way.