MemphisMechanic

Most newer people that struggle with this tend to keep themselves comfortable. Set yourself up on a hard lean around a corner in your home. Lean like normal, and you’ll notice you’ve basically got no weight on the counter-balancing foot. Often, shooters will come up on their toe as they lean over the opposite leg, while keeping both knees pretty much straight. Instead, go down deep into a squat on the side you’re leaning toward so that your thigh is on fire while you shoot. It’s faster to get into and get out of because you’re lower. It’s also much more stable and you can keep more weight on the back leg; it’s pretty easy to keep that whole foot flat. If you’re comfortable, you’re up too tall and tipsy. Someone low and stable is always going to beat you.

Go shoot them to see how they group. All coated bullets and most plated do this through my 650 and 1050; the die seats using the ogive and you measure to the bullet tip, so tolerances in bullet profile and case neck tension stack quickly. But ammo with an OAL variation of .008” - .010” would often have a standard deviation of six or less in it’s velocity, and shoot a crazy tight group. I’ve learned not to rely on OAL too much. As long as it feeds.

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Not terribly uncommon; how was that mag set up? I’m assuming either PCC or carry optics? Let’s assume it was a glock mag. Take a brand new razor blade. Carve a bevel in the polymer around the bottom the body. Finish by smoothing with one of the wife’s nail files. Basically turn it into a tiny magwell so there’s nothing square for the follower to hang on as it slides back up into the tube. Common practice on glock mags. If the parts are steel? Do something similar but use a sanding drum on a dremel, if possible. I also sand/file a bevel on the bottom corners of my followers to make it easier to push them into the extension while loading... but the ability to smoothly empty the mag during a stage is somewhat more important.

Just leave the primers and powder in the press. I used to be obsessive about emptying it out. Now? After routinely letting it sit in a very humid garage for 3+ months, then finding zero difference in how my ammo runs through a chrono? It sits perpetually full and ready.

At distance having the corners clipped off the rear sight is more helpful than you’d think at seeing the targets you’ll transition to next. I hated this type of rear at first but grew to like them. https://warrentactical.com/product/glock-warren-tactical-fiber-optic-set-plain-rear-sight-and-fiber-optic-front-sight/ (I haven’t shot Glock in a decade, but still prefer such rear sight profiles on the guns I’ve switched to.)

We see a guy with an Open gun, we know to double up on hearing protection. Even over the interent.

JJ states he had multiple shots register at 1020ish, then one read 990. The next four did not register. They proceeded to repair/replace the chronograph and he shot another 1020ish. I doubt he’d be brave enough to make up such a story. Not when several people who were present for his chono experience will inevitably hear about it via social media.

Quite legal, and done frequently, as long as it’s not specifically written that you must use your foot.

The 180 is always defined as something centered straight down the bay, parallel to the rear wall. The position of the gun at the start doesn’t matter. Keeping the gun at least 90 degrees away from the spectators behind you is what matters. Protecting them and the match staff is the purpose of the rule.

Glad you did that. His barrel just arrived.

The shadow 2 has a hardened barrel which will destroy a conventional highspeed steel reamer before you make more than a few scratches in it. I had a carbide reamer made to cut the barrels in my Walthers, and it’ll do a Gen5 Glock or CZ P09/P10/Shadow2. They’re hard as snot, though. Newer CZ barrels are a chore to cut, even with my carbide tooling. Just wanted to warn anyone who might have been about to ruin a perfectly good reamer. Guns you can’t cut with a Brownells or Midway USA sourced reamer: The CZs listed above. All factory Glock barrels. The entire S&W M&P line. Springfield XDs. All modern Walthers. (Czechmates and SP-01/Shadow guns have a standard barrel steel and will cut just fine.)

Everyone turns a few parts into paperweights when learning to work on their guns. It happens. This is why we always grind on the cheaper of two interfacing parts. I bought two bolos when building my tanfo: the only way to know you have the trigger fully tuned is to go to the bleeding edge, then back it off a little bit on the replacement part.

They let you start with the bolt locked to the rear? The presence of a BAD lever is obviously irrelevant, if you have to run the charging handle after starting with a closed chanber. Of course he already mentioned that most AR9s don’t lock back. But also I have never shot the gun dry in a match, nor encountered an “unloaded start, slide/bolt lockef open” start position. So you’d only use a BAD Lever when clearing malfunctions, or at ULSC.

@Degnan unless there’s a good mating between each grain and the epoxy, that piece of grit will fall off eventually. Make sure it’s all packed onto the gun well. Then. Take care to scrub ALL the loose media off after 24 hours. You want to get it all off the gun, and make sure to clean it well before taking it to a match. Otherwise it might... say... come off the grip in your holster and jam between the kydex and the gun, scratching the heck out of your slide when you reholster. Ask me how I know tamping then scrubbing is important. Go ahead. Ask. (Thankfully it was a well worn beater G34.)

You should be willing to be sloppier with your hits in certain situations, or you’re sometimes leaving a higher score on the table. This is coming from a Minor shooter in Production, btw. In Major, eating the Charlies make even more sense. When I was a frustrated B class, my very first M-class classifier was a ~10 HF stage. I shot a delta and three charlies in a 12 round stage. In minor. It was a Master class performance because it was very fast. (I had shot that same classifier with all As earlier in the year roughly 1.3-1.4 seconds slower. It was good for B class.) As the HF approaches 10-12, you must have a low stage time to survive. With as many points as you can gather along the way. On those rare low HF (2-4) stages? You must shoot every possible point you can get, and you have to be patient enough to do so.

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This is where experience comes into play. My buddies and I try to estimate what the HF will be each time we break down a stage together. Do that for half a dozen matches, and you’ll start to get pretty decent at it. Getting your guess within +/- 1 point of HF is more than adequate when it comes to deciding a stage strategy. Precision isn’t required. The KISS version? A bunch of wide open paper targets and 12ish yard poppers where you’re able to shoot nonstop from buzzer to finish is a high hit factor stage. Anything which adds time into the stage where the gun isn’t spitting out .15-.20 splits brings the HF down. Unloaded starts, mags on barrels, tight noshoots, distant tiny steel, long movements without targets to engage. Etc.

Legal. Also irrelevant, but you can have one on your rifle.

Your review carries a lot more weight because you didn’t arrive brandishing a discount code.

I wont be running a light on my plastic gun.

Yes, you should be fine. The left side of the safety goes in with a snap, after all, and should not drift out of the gun.

Hey! I think that’s the highest praise I can get, when it comes to how well I produced that series... thanks. (I won’t ask which parts you “barely” destroyed.)

Oh she’s doing it right with an OME suspension from the guys in Australia. It’ll ride significantly better than stock, but don’t ask what it cost... (I’m a certified master Toyota tech who spent 8 years wrenching on them. Going to those forums guys for sound advice is like going to Glocktalk to learn how to shoot fast. )

I’m getting ready to do a 3” lift and 32s on a friend’s 2021 TRD this coming weekend in the exact same color.