MemphisMechanic

@twodownzero there’s also the fact that the bullet is more stable because it’s both traveling and spinning a bit faster. Along with a host of other factors I’m not sophisticated enough to calculate. All I know is that the sweet spot for accuracy when it comes to heavy 9mm loads usually isn’t at the bottom of the acceptable velocity window. And I’ve worked up a quie few 9mm recipes in the past 16 years or so.

Amusingly enough, 147s in particular tend to shoot tighter groups at 25yds in many recipes when they’re fired at a higher velocity. Super slow, sluggish heavy 9mm ammo typically doesn’t group as tightly. In many cases. So while you feel YOU shoot straighter without as much motivation to flinch, you may find that your gun’s shooting a much wider group than it could be. But you won’t know until you test it. Velocity/powder charge is a key factor in load development: I’ll never understand why most USPSA guys pick a bullet, find what makes X power factor, and call it good. Accuracy matters, and dialing in the ammo for your particular gun is way more important than power factor. I’d much rather shoot a 1.5” grouping 140PF at a distant mini popper than some softballs which group 6+ inches.

SGMs are garbage regardless of what you’re sticking them in. ETS or glock brand mags will run like a swiss watch in a GMR. Just keep the GMR very well oiled and feed it high quality mags.

And that, right there, is how you know this solvent will actually do something. I’ve been wrenching on cars for 20+ years. Long enough to remember the old “I’ll melt your hands off” solvents we used in our parts washers that could get anything spotless. The new water-based ones don’t dissolve your gloves… but they also don’t dissolve anything else.

Do you actually think you shoot any better or faster with 127 than with 133-135? You’re running a risk for absolutely no gain at all.

My last match was in September of 2019. It’s safe to say that I am through the withdrawl phase and out the other side. (Got remarried, bought a big fixer-upper project house, I’ve got three chainsaws to port & build, a pair of 5.3L LS heads to build for a customer, a tractor with a blown motor I need to rebuild…)

I’m with Rowdy and the others: A 50ish yard zero is the ticket. Learn your holds for headshots etc. Done. Easy.

First clean the hole for the plunger and spring and around the extractor like crazy. ….and replace all the springs in the gun every 10-15k just as general maintenance.

Start here to learn how to work on a double action Tanfo. Then swap parts when the time comes to put it back together. Search youtube for “Tanfoglio Tuning” and you’ll find all 4 videos in this series.

They’re quite easy to convert to single action if you’re comfortable doing some disassembly and very basic gunsmithing.

Roll the gun 30-45 degrees or so toward the weak hand to present the slide. Pinch the slide between the base of the thumb and the index finger. Deep in the crotch where you’ll find a surprising amount of strength - don’t use your fingertips. Easy peasy. As @waktasz said, most of us pick it up eventually. The main benefit to this is how much faster it is on unloaded starts; on a conventional overhand rack, your hand comes off the back of the gun. With this technique you roll the gun back upright and your weak hand pretty much falls into place. @waktasz: No-talent A class over here.

It’s an entirely valid technique, as you just saw. Yet someone slower and worse than him is still preaching there’s a better way that everyone should use. I love this place.

Garran uses a hybrid technique but the hand does come up from underneath. Anytime someone tells you there’s only one correct way to to do something, a multi-division GM is waiting to prove them wrong… https://www.instagram.com/p/CE9J9m_pmIR/?utm_medium=copy_link

A perfect return to zero requires the shooter’s stance, the ammo’s PF, and the recoil spring to be well matched. With some testing and tuning on all three you will get it there. in general, I find delayed-blowback 9mm guns like hotter ammo. I shoot 140pf 115s in my CMMG franeknstein rifle and it’s dead flat.

Sprinco guide rod system with the white recoil spring.

A cerakoted gun doesn’t have any coating on the rails or the barrel’s locking lugs or any other fitment-related component. This is for a variety of reasons, the most prominent of which being that the cerakote would get stripped off such heavily loaded components in short order. (I’m a fairly experienced cerakote applicator who has done most of his own weapons, and a few for family members.) You’ll have no issues with the gun being sloppier than it is now.

Anything at all… Except for wet wood. Unannounced ice skating sessions with a loaded gun in your hand and all of your friends behind you is not a great time. Can verify. (This is why you want to bring a second pair of rubber soled shoes to a major if you prefer to shoot in hard cleats, just in case.)

People shoot minor primarily because most matches have several stages that suck a little bit for 10 round guns, but suck a lot for 8 round guns. They’d happliy take Major 10 over Minor 10, but since that is not an option? The decision to choose capacity over power factor is made due to poor stage design factors alone. Ammo cost and felt recoil aren’t really factors in the decision, they’re just secondary benefits. The stages they encounter will almost always be won by a 10+1 gun, so that’s what they shoot. Personally I find I wind up building really good stages if I have just 4-6 required shots in each position. The remaining targets which might cause you to fire 8 to 12 shots when you arrive somewhere? They’re positioned so they are available from several positions, or on the move, etc. These generally tend to be fun stages to break down, every division is pretty happy… and you get to see all of the top guys running different plans.

I do not. My 147gr loads are noticeably softer recoiling than my 124s. With both at ~130-133 power factor, they are both subsonic. It’s a function of HOW you go about reaching that amount of power. This oversimplifies/exaggerates it, but think about sliding your refrigerator across the kitchen to run into somebody’s shin at 3 mph, versus hitting that shin on the corner of the light little coffee table at a full sprint. The same amount of force might be involved in both events, but I’ll take the guy who doesn’t know how to parallel park his fridge. Coffee tables suck.

Yikes. I bought my press in 2007 and the casefeeder on my 1050 will comfortably handle 500+ 9mm cases before the clutch slips.

@rowdyb has it right. Bill drills at 15+ yards will give you the answer that will give you the best results on match day when shooting fast. (With my gun, that was also the setup that produced the least dot movement, which you’d expect.) How softly the gun shoots should be the last thing you care about, even though tons of guys talk about that first.

Nobody shooting Production minds reloading 3 to 4 times per stage. In fact, we’re all about that life. We loathe when lazy stage designers make us do two of those reloads flat-footed in a high hit-factor stage because they only think with a 23-round mindset. Typically it would only require someone to move 1 or 2 targets to turn such a stage into something fantastic for *all* divisions to shoot. In fact, that often results in the SS & Production guys having 2 or 3 ways to attack things, which should be any stage designer’s goal. When I’m shooting Carry Optics, I’m just as disappointed in a stage that has 18 rounds visible from one location. It just comes from a different direction.

I agree. Run it til it doesn’t.

and in Production, sadly. Yes.

The die @AHI linked you to will both seat and crimp. Despite being named a “seating die” it performs both tasks.