MemphisMechanic

5" Wilson flat-wire 1911 spring. The recoil spring in every gun rides directly on the slide. The plug in the front is only there to capture it when you take the gun apart: I run all of mine uncaptured. EDIT: I see what you're asking. The rod may or may not be contacting the slide. I haven't looked, but many weapons work that way just fine. There are pictures a page or two earlier in this same thread.

Not at all: with a Bolo, Titan hammer, and extended firing pin block it's typically plug and play. Sometimes a bit of fitting on the block is required, but not usually.

As Tanfastic said, bring it up until the round lands right on top of the front sight for USPSA. I know a few guys who like it to hit a few inches over the top of the sight so that they can see what they're aiming at without the front blade obscuring it... But most of us prefer the round landing right on top of the front post at 25yd. Your point of impact will be within .22" or so between there and 25 yards, if you run the ballistics on a 9mm. Effectively dead on from 0-25yd

BOSS hangers are patterned for the hole pattern of the Blade Tech TekLok.

My gun ran on CCIs 100% with a 15.5 PD spring and all of the same internals you're running. You don't have any room for error when it comes to having everything polished and fitted perfectly, but pull that off and the gun will run anything except for ancient soviet-bloc surplus ammo. It might even run that, I just haven't tried it.

Not until you start considering a racier hammer. The repositioned hooks are the culprit, I believe.

Actually it's better for those of us in the South. I get to chrono it at it's slowest, when temperatures are around 100 all summer long. It's harder for us to find a cold day, which doesn't matter since my 133pf loads will only climb to 134-135 if I head up north in the fall to shoot a major match.

You can also sand the top of the insert so it is completely beveled with no flat surface on top, for those "stuff the mag carriers at the beep" stages.

They're pretty affordable if you only need the body and have a BOSS hanger. Just order it "drilled for bladetech" on their website - the boss hanger uses the bladetech tek-lok hole pattern. With the second layer added, it's pretty amazingly stiff. Both my Walther Q5 holster and my Stock3's were a better fit than the 12-15 Comptac and BladeTech holsters I've owned.

It's just like the red hill tactical holster body, only less good.

Same here. It's been nice to to from M&P to Tanfoglio to Walther Q5 without changing magazine pouches at all. Also handy when you want to run a buddies Glock or 2011 through a stage.

Yes. A machinist buddy turned a SS one for me that lets me run a flat-wire Wilson 1911 spring of my choice. I run a 13 now. Sidenote: it'a virtually identical to a Glock or M&P 13lb IMSI spring. If you don't want to go to that trouble, no worries. Walther will mayyyybe have a tungsten guiderod out for it soon. Let's just say I heard this from a very reliable source.

It is with a few kisses from a Dremel. Just like with the M&P or P320, I don't see why all these manufacturers insist on putting such sharp square edges on the frame opening. The gun reloads as easily as any plastic gun (aka much better than CZ or Tanfo) and very, very well if you round off the magwell's inner lip. Before anyone starts with the "illegal mod" stuff... that's not what was specifically permitted by DNROI when myself and a SIG guy wrote him and asked.

Reliable? Easy. EGD Medium hammer spring. With that, my gun would eat CCI Magnums that weren't necessarily fully seated. With a 15.5 Patriot Defense spring, fully seated CCIs were 100%. With a 13lb PD spring, fully seated Winchester primers were 100% but CCI were not.

My ammo's OAL varied between 1.108 and 1.117 in the current batch which I loaded today. Loaded on a 650: 125 BBI 3.80 gr Prima V 1.110"-1.115" CCI Magnum Walther Q5 Match: Avg of 10: 1097 fps Es 22 Sd 6 Pf 137.1 M&P 4.25" Avg of 8: 1048 FPS Es 11 Sd 4 Pf 131.0 See how tight the extreme spread and standard deviation numbers are? I'll do some accuracy testing with it and if it groups well, I won't worry about the OAL variation at all.

Exactly. Flat point and tapered cone profiles can be loaded longer than round nose, generally speaking. Particularly in coated bullets.

Being used to a long, pretravel-filled Glock trigger? The DA first shot will come naturally to you. It already has, as you've noticed. I received a lot of bad advice about practicing the DA pull, and followed it. After two matches full of trigger-freezing moments, I taped the hammer back in the cocked position and dryfired the gun like that for two weeks. It really helped me learn to shoot the short, crips trigger at high speed.

There's this supposition that the moment you pick up a CZ or Tanfo instead of your Glock, you'll instantly be faster or more accurate. In reality it's going to take you three months of hard work dryfiring frequently just to catch up to the point you were at when you put the Glock down. The CZ isn't a "faster" gun. It's just different. Some people will prefer lighter plastic guns, some the more stable metal ones. Pick one and practice. But until you practice, you'll have issues shooting accurately in SA in particular.

The 2lb single action in a steel gun is much harder for me to shoot accurately at 25yds than the 5lb trigger in my Walther. It's a different way of working the trigger, and simply not what I was used to.

Shoot it. A lot. Live and dry fire. I switched from M&P to a Tanfoglio with a similar trigger to yours, back to polymer (Walther Q5 Match) The issue is that everything striker fired has slowly rolled back into the gun as you stackstackstack bang. That's what you're used to. With a metal SA gun, you take the slack out and then the trigger basically sits in place as you add weight until it breaks. It's a very different way for things to operate, and it takes time to get used to. It's easier to pull the shot off-target, in my opinion.

I shot IDPA for five years religiously. Dabbled in USPSA... I just plain don't want to shoot IDPA anymore. I like shooting any stage any way I feel like.

I'm shooting Black Bullets 125TCs, and I'm quite happy with them. They also let me load to 1.125" for a short-chambered gun, whereas the Acme 125RN couldn't be longer than 1.085" And all the bullets are actually coated all the way around. (Also, shoot USPSA once. You'll find IDPA much less interesting.)

Unless he tries that jug of Prima V on his shelf. It shoots as clean and as soft and consistent as N320 at half the price. Look at the last two lines here, then load 3.0-3.1 grains with your acme 147s. (The Bayou 150gr semi wadcutters in this chart actually weigh 147)

I know that bullet. And I know the Tanfo chamber. My guess is it won't plunk & spin in the barrel until you're at somewhere between 1.100" and 1.110". Drop a few into the barrel and see if they spin. If not, shorten them until they do. My M&P shield has a similar length chamber to most CZs and Tanfos. I shoot the 125 bbi's through it often, and it needs them at 1.110" or shorter.