MemphisMechanic

We don’t really mention this, but it’s important to distinguish production/CO vs divisions with a magwell here, too. Open and Limited guys tend toload futher up and out. If you honestly pay attention to the winning production GMs on the national level, quite a few of then load down lower and in closer than you would expect. Ben Stoeger, @hwansikcjswo, Alex Gutt, and a few others come to mind.

It sounds like you’re trying to traverse a sight picture from your fist target to your second, continuing to keep the sights in front of your eyes. If so, no wonder you’re trying to fix slow transitions. Acquire acceptable sight picture on #1. Shoot it. The moment you call a good shot, swivel your eyes in their sockets to lock onto #2. Snap your head to it as you use your hips/thighs to drive your arms and gun over to where you’re now looking.

The Stock 2 defines accuracy in Production guns. It is the best option on the market. I watched Ben Stoeger punch out a 3/4” hole at around 20yd while practicing during a break in one of his classes. All holes touching.

It is. The reason I’m so insistent that it’s probsbly not the gun is because this is a really common problem for newer Glock shooters. The larger frame and snappier recoil *do* matter more than you think.

I pay a local buddy who runs an indoor range $100 per 5-gallon bucket of 9mm once-fired police department brass. Most of the time I don’t bother to pick up brass at matches. It’s barely worth my time to do so at about a penny per case.

Move your new press over at least six inches to the left. I must be the oddball: I use the space to the right of the press more than the left! You will love the starlight. Mine is great. Lightly deburr the small primer hole in the vibraprime tray. I also drilled a small hole in the cover directly above it so that I can poke stuck primers back straight with a tiny allen wrench when they hang up. Winchester primers do not play well with vibraprimes. S&B and CCI go through it like butter. Winchesters tend to sometimes not be quite perfectly round until they’re pressed into a piece of brass. Leave the little primer tube adapter thingy out of your vibraprime and just stick the bare aluminum primer feed tubes up into it and hold them centered. Barehand works fine and it’s faster.

Step one, if you’re convinced this is the problem? Use a 2 hand grip and shoot the gun lefthanded. I bet even momey it suddenly stops pushing shots left.

No one is stupid enough to buy a Stock 2 in 38S for use in competition. Nice try! You’re not fooling us. The best thing about shooting 9 is not bothering to pick up brass unless you feel like it.

How many rounds on the gun (the frame?) A likely cause is the sear cage shifting/deflecting enough for the hammer hooks to slip off the sear. The shaft of the safety is the only thing that really retains the sear cage.

All Glocks shoot left. For the first year. Over time they astonishingly enough begin to shoot closer and closer to dead center. This is a tongue-in-cheek reference to your consistent trigger press issue with the larger grip and stouter recoil of the .40, which will slowly go away with routine practice.

If it comes to that, smooth the edges with 120 then 200 then 400 grit sand paper on a wood block to flatten the edge out perfectly straight, round the corners over... Then take a dremel polishing wheel to it. I often trim or radius the corners on a carry holster somewhere or other, and that leaves it looking slicker than factory. Just FYI.

True. My mistake.

A small little tripid for your phone with legs that can be bent and wrapped around one of the bay’s walls or stood up on a barrel is far more useful. In most stages you can get all the movment in video, or the place where you know youre most likely to do something technically challenging. Or have a buddy film you. First person video is great for “did I pull off that target early,” “how did that malfunction happen” and not much else.

Maximize friction. You have a steel ski on a slick surface. Drill the corners for some rubber feet like these: https://www.zoro.com/zoro-select-vibration-isolator-50-lb-max-14-20-2npe4/i/G2062952/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIyYOSh9jV2QIVjsDICh1cnQNVEAQYCiABEgIVFPD_BwE I’m not offering a guess here, either. I built a swinger for a local indoor club and doing this stopped it from walking across the floor.

I would definitely look at PCC as an option. The optic means less frustration for older eyes that don’t want to focus on irons, and your right wrist isn’t taking any of the recoil.

Correct. And with the SIG X5 and Glock Gen5’s coming with built-in magwells you don’t even get to feel guilty about it anymore.

Paging @Kingman to see if red hill can do one... I loved the way his Tanfo body fit my Stock 3. Why do you want an open bottom? Idle curiosity.

If your bullets and brass play well together and you arent finding more than a handful of sizing failures per 1,000 rounds loaded? Keep on rocking what you have. Shoving a long 147 deeply into a tapered wall 9mm case will often cause many times the faiure rate as if you don’t press the bullet in as deeply, or switch to a shorter 135 or 124.

Ultra long handloads for .40 are a 2011 thing, in order to get the guns to feed reliably. I don’t know that you’ll see a Tanfoglio owner doing that - for one, they magazines won’t tolerate the insanely long OALs that STI/SVI tubes will.

Nerds.

I also think playing with gun position is very underrated: angle the grip is canted at, muzzle up or closer to level, a pinch further from your torso, etc

The hill is your issue. Remember that just like a man throwing a ball, it leaves at an upward trajectory and then falls in a graceful curve until it intersects with your target... placing the target well above or below the origin point affects where along that ballistic arc the bullet impacts the target. To put it simply: If you are shooting noticeably uphill OR downwhill, you must aim low in both cases. Anyone who’s missed a deer on a mountainside is familiar with this phenomenon. It sounds wrong, but do some googling. It’s true. Expect the bullets to always hit high if you’re shooting on any kind of incline/decline. And do all of your sighting-in on flat ground: If you’re sighted in at 12-15 yd then your rounds should hit lower at 20-25 on flat ground. However it’ll be a miniscule difference, perhops 0.5” or so. Unless you’re exceptionally accurate you might not even notice it. I sight in at 15yd then verify it with a 10rd group at 25, personally.

No, they’re OWB. Sorry, I missed that request. I’ve always carried gun IWB and mags OWB. Shield mags pose no problem with concealment; they are smalle enough that it’s a lot like hanging a bic lighter off your belt.

This. Synthetic high-temp bearing grease out of a tube meant for a grease gun, and plain old motor oil. Works every bit as well as anything else, at 10% of the cost.

Fixed! We’ve all been there and done that: we know why your second hit is going wild because we did the same thing. Adding 1/10th of a second between shots will feel like an eternity, but would be a huge benefit to you in terms of how many points you’re racking up.