caspian guy

I use the wolf springs in my old style caspian mags. http://www.gunsprings.com/index.cfm?page=items&cID=1&mID=13

Yep... Shame about the recticle though.

Find one of the german police trade in H&K P7s. They generally have good triggers and shouldn't be that expensive. (maybe a bit large though depending on the intended carry method.)

Might check the diameter at the back of the cases in question, I believe that the 9mm being a tapered cartridge is a bit fatter at the back. I had an open gun once that was originally chambered in 9x21 then was re-chambered to .38 super if I remember right it worked fine but the brass got bulged a bit at the back. I have a casepro so I could roll the bulge back out but might be something to think about. Maybe it could be reamed to 9x23?

I am dropping Robert's and mine in the mail tomorrow.

Neil Keller would be a good choice (he is in decatur,in). He does great work.

Probably not the full story... http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/STI_International I guess you could always call virgil and ask him.

Yes you probably need spacers. I like the steel "Joey Hardy" ones you can get from Shooters Connection. As you suspected that calls for a different follower. I prefer the grams fks-11 or 13 spring and follower. There are reports of old style SV mags running 9mm without spacers but I haven't tried it.

There is a rib on the bottom of the slide in most self loading pistols that holds the top round in the magazine slightly depressed when the pistol is in battery. If you take the slide off, flip it upside down and look at the back section on the bottom behind the breach face you will see it. To watch how this works take a mag with a single round in it. Insert it with the gun in battery with an empty chamber. First thing to notice its that some effort its required to push the mag home till it locks in. That comes from the rib pushing the round down and compressing the spring. Next while watching from above the ejection port, slowly retract the slide and watch what happens.

Physics dictates that it can't occur instantaneously... A simplistic view of the forces at work are: gravity acting on the mass of a full stack of bullets, the friction those bullets have to overcome as they start to move (due to contact with the inside of the mag body). The force to overcome that comes from the mag spring. The stack can't start to move until the rail on the bottom of the slide comes clear of the top bullet in the stack, once that happens the slide continues to move rearward for a short distance before it bottoms out and starts moving forward. When the breach face of the slide comes forward even with the rim of the case the top round in the mag must be in position. The motion of the slide dictates a short window during which the force of the mag spring must accelerate the stack of cartridges up the mag body to get them in place to feed. many factors can impact this: strength of the mag spring, smoothness of the inside of the mag tube (seems to matter more for double stack guns), length of slide stroke (e.g. if you added a thick shock buff). It all boils down to F=M*A...

Mine shoots about 2 moa if I do my part with surplus m80 ball. It has the stg58 barrel in it and dsa did a trigger job on it when I bought it. Vandenberg custom (vandenbergcustom.com) makes a very nice muzzle brake for the fal. Ed also works on FALs as well should you need some smithing done. (ed also sells a nice free float tube)

They did make an aluminum grip saftey and an aluminum msh, not sure if they still do. Which version of the mags are you using? I wonder if the old style is any lighter? You could probably lose some weight out of the front strap as well (maybe slot it internaly if that is allowed dont know what the rules say about that these days so best check first).

I believe the guy that built my guns suggested federal or remington. I have always used federal for a preference.

55 gr hornady fmj over h335

Thanks for the heads up Steve I just updated the version on my phone. I had intended to talk to him about adding it after I got the data for the reticle from meopta, but just never got around to it.

Depending on how long those big sticks are you could mill out the dimples at the bottom of the mag and get an extended base pad from egw. That would probably get you up to 28 rounds. You'd have to check with it a gauge to make sure it was legal, but I was using a weld up mag from Fred Craig that I had modified as I described until I got one of Jim's.

Both of my guns started out life as 38 super. One was converted to 9mm with a barrel swap, on the other I put on a new top end to convert it to 9mm. In either case My mags (old style) work with either 9mm or 38sup with no issue.

I've yet to slo-mo a dot that didn't leave the scope, no matter what it looks like to the naked eye. Figure 8's and loops and such are quite common and usually grip/stance/timing/flinch/push-related. Here's one of me shooting a plate rack at 600 fps. Shred, What kind of camera did you use to capture that video?

Well done. As an aside my best classifiers always come when I just shoot and am not anxious about the results...

+1 on getting a 9mm ar instead. I like the hk94 I have and got a good deal on it (and a bunch of mags) but if I were to do it again and I wanted a 9mm carbine it would be the ar.

So your options are some what limited. The nicest option would probably be a real HK 94,however they are usually quite expensive now days. Several folks have made clones at one time or another. Search for bobcat arms, vector ams, coharie arms. I believe all of them do or have at one time made an hk94/semi-auto mp5 clone of varying quality. I think american tactical (made in turkey I think) makes a semi sorta clone (said to not be parts compatible)... depends on why you want it as to what to look for. For some lite reading go check out the forums on hkpro.com. Kinda the enos forums for all things hk. If you could live with a pistol or were willing to do the paperwork for an sbr you might look at http://www.hkparts.net/shop/pc/viewcategories.asp?idcategory=290

The Corsairs

Nice going.

I'll take a look at mine later this evening and see if I can come up with anything...

Remember to factor in 130 bucks for a set of dies (assuming dillion still has them in stock). Or maybe you might get lucky and find someone who still has a set? You will probably also want to use new 10mm brass to form the cases (I never had any luck even with once fired 10mm forming without splitting.) Not sure what powder you'd use for an un-comped gun? For hunting I'd guess you'd want a fairly heavy bullet maybe a 147gr like an xtp? In a comp gun I used a hefty charge of either vit n110 or hogdon h110 on top of a magnum large pistol primer with either a 115 or a 124 grain bullet on top.