Toolguy

Those that shoot just under major might as well bump up a tenth of a grain and cash in on the points from shooting major.

What would it cost (us) to make more of them? That's the best loader I've seen.

It's hard to tell from the pics, but you might want to check the screw that holds your rear sight on. It looks like it's coming unscrewed.

Maybe they could come with a better pin from the factory, like a Spirol pin or a roll pin.

There is a keyed lock right above the thumblatch on the newer models that allows you to lock the hammer down so the action can't be cycled. In the locked position there is a little flag that pops up next to the hammer that says "LOCKED". I have seen a lot of these guns in matches and shoot a few myself. I have never seen anyone have an issue related to the key lock. They appear to totally harmless in terms of causing problems.

The rimless cartridges use thicker, heavier duty moon clips.

It can easily be done. Use a 9mm chamber reamer and cut it for moon clips. You will probably get the best accuracy if you load .357 size bullets in the 9mm brass.

Hopefully your Vet is up to date on this sorta thang.

Judging from the picture, it looks like anywhere you go is uphill both ways! Thanks for everything guys!

I don't know how to do that. It's in this Brian Enos Forum under the Revolver topic in the CRspeed conversion thread.

The hard part is just making the parts. It's a simple matter to assemble it to the holster with 2 screws. Did you look at the pics and read the whole thread?

I have pics of my holster in the revolver department under CRspeed conversion. It would work great with that gun. It's a Hogue conversion.

My old plate was TRUXTC (single guy) Current one is TOP GUN Girfriend's is 1911GRL

+1 JKSniper. Around here at the big matches They give out the trophies or plaques to the class winners as normal, then the prize table is by random drawing. They have poker chips with numbers on them and each shooter has a number, 1 through as many shooters as are at the match. All the poker chips go in a coffee can and are drawn out one at a time and that shooter number makes a pick off the prize table. Once all the numbers are picked, they all go back in the coffee can, shaken up and picked again. Usually each person goes to the prize table 3 or 4 times. Usually everyone at the match gets back at least their entry fee off the prize table. At one match, part of the entry fee is to bring something for the prize table worth at least $15.00. This can be something you go buy or something you already have laying around unused, as long as it might be useful and wanted by another shooter, and not junk.

AngryReb- I'll make all the conversion parts and sen them up for $125.00 + $10.00 shipping, or you send a holster and I'll make the parts and put everything together and send it back for $140.00 + $15.00 shipping. (It's easy to assemble, just a takes a little time).

Get the -8. The machining is much better, the alloy and heat treat are better. It already has a good action. It is probably a minor thing to fix any play in the cylinder. That's my vote. What do some of you other guys think?

Doh! How many shooters does it take to figure out one power factor?!?!?!

If it's an open gun, the scope could be loose or damaged on the inside. Then try a different scope for a test.

I got 480,200,000 pf.

Welcome. Glad to help.

+1 Trooper! You need chamfered chambers (don't chamfer the star or it won't extract) and roundnose bullets for quick reloads. To eject, get that muzzle up so gravity gets the cases out. To reload, get the muzzle down so gravity gets the fresh rounds in. A lot of people think a 38 isn't accurate in a 357 chamber. Not true. A good 38 load will shoot just as good groups in a 357 chamber as in a 38 chamber.

I use a small cement mixer from Harbor Freight. The trick with the metal ones is to keep a lot of media in the tub so that it keeps the brass in suspension and cushions it and/or get a mixer with a plastic tub.

Home based machine shops are popular in New England - check the internet for model engineering clubs in your area.

I've used DROs for about 30 years or since they first came out (whichever was first). The best ones of all are Accurite. They have several different models. The low end Accurite ones work as well as the expensive ones. Mine reads out to .0002. Most are .0005. Half a thou is fine for almost any project. I don't know about the cheap off brands they have now, they might be OK or might not. To me, this is a one time purchase that will determine the quality of every project for years to come. I would not scrimp on this item. I think you can get a brand new Accurite system in the $800.00 range, maybe better on ebay.

I have 2 550s. One for large primers and one for small primers. I tried the ball handle, but it made blisters. So I made a roller handle with copper tubing as a close slip fit over the steel part and a rubber handle grip over the copper. This was years ago when Dillon didn't have any roller handle. Over the years I've tried different handle grips. I've found that for a long session, the thin ones are more comfortable and less tiring than the thicker more cushy ones. The thin ones also give a very sensitive feel for all operations including primer seating. I get the ATV grips at a motorcycle shop because they are both the same size inside dia. Motorcycle grips have one i.d. bigger than the other. Both presses have this handle. I will NEVER go back to the ball one. All my friends that try this immediately want one, so I've made several more over the years. I have converted Dillon plastic and alum. handles to this with good results. My 2 cents.