Toolguy

Congrats to both of you!

Thanks Tom!

Hi GrandBoule- Welcome to the forums! I have shot S&W revolvers double action for over 30 years, so I will give some opinions. This is not the final word on the subject, as there are many other forum members who are highly qualified to answer your query. I shoot PPC, NRA Action Pistol, and IHMSA Metallic Silhouette mostly plus any local generic "action matches" that are similar in nature to IPSC and have shot Bullseye in the past. I believe the PPC is good for teaching one how to shoot accurately from different positions. I am not aware of any civilian PPC clubs in the country besides our local Kansas City one. If there are others, I would like to hear about them. The NRA Action Pistol is similar to PPC except the time limits are shorter. You have to really be on the ball to shoot a good score, but it's a fun game that keeps your interest and hones your skill. I believe it is better to start out in games that teach you to be accurate in a specified time limit, then move to ones where you just go as fast as you can. Speed without accuracy is pointless. (Pun intended). Silhouette will make you a more rounded and versatile shooter because you learn to do the long shots and not be afraid of them. I shoot double action with a 629. To make it a little more challenging, I do the Big Bore as quickly as possible. Normal time for 5 targets at 50 and 100 meters is 5-6 seconds, for 150 and 200 meters is 10 - 12 seconds. Best time so far for 40 out of 40 is 84 seconds. Everyone else takes 2 minutes for 5 targets. Before shooting Silhouette, a 25 yard target looks like its in the next county. After Silhouette, it seems like you're right on top of it. I think it's a matter of perspective, and what standards you get used to. As far as an all around good shooter, the only thing that matters is getting the front and rear sight lined up with each other and keeping that alignment through the shot. Everything else is peripheral. If you learn to do that really well, you will be a formidable competitor on any course of fire. In the action type courses, practice hard on a smooth fast draw and first shot. The subsequent shots are easier than the first. I have competed successfully against bolt actions single shots and autos. You can do it too. Best of Luck - Toolguy

Often times, a slave pin helps a lot. A slave pin is a straight pin or punch that is just a little undersize and slides thru the hole easily. You get the parts lined up with the slave pin from one side, and put in the other pin from the other side, keeping the two pins end to end until the roll or dowel pin is almost completely in. That keeps the parts in alignment so you're not fighting with that part of the equation, and installation goes smoothly.

I was asking about the one in post #3.

Is that your girlfriend?

If you only bob the hammer and leave the springs original, the reliability will stay the same or be better.

I get the 2 gallon size freezer bags and put parts and hands inside the bag. You can see thru the back side. If anything gets away, all you have to do is pick up the bag and look along the bottom to find the parts. That has saved me a lot of grief (once i finally figured out to do it).

Most reloading manuals show case dimensions for each caliber, including the head size. There are some online places with this information too. Welcome to the Forums Freddie!

41Mag- I made some special demooning tools out of stainless when I got a 627 x 8. I've been selling them for $20.00 locally, but if you want one, I will send it as a gift to help you get started off right. PM with shipping info if you wish. One of these will last forever. Best Regards

Here's Ol' Lightnin' chasing the cat... Actually, that's Daisy Mae (dog) and Sebastian. This is Daisy going for A Ride - Her favorite pasttime.

Zzyzx Motorsports has new suspension systems for Subis and Evos that are being used by some of the Nationals guys. Might want to check them out.

And a sound sleeper too!

You are yelling when you write in all capital letters.

Pride-Fowler Industries has a lot of rifle and pistol scopes. It is John Pride and Mickey Fowler. Some of you may have heard of them. They have high quality stuff. One of their scopes is a Special Ops Compact. It's like a Docter or Jpoint. You can check them out at rapidreticle.com.

Safariland makes them for K and L frame. One place you can get them is the Dillon Blue Press catalog.

One thing I haven't seen addressed yet is that some will cut down or lighten the spring that powers the cylinder stop in an attempt to make the trigger return easier. It does help in that department, but I think it's a bad idea and not needed if the action is properly done in other areas. I agree with the other posts above, just wanted to add 2 more cents.

I get most of my supplies from MSC (mscdirect.com), McMaster-Carr, or Enco (use-enco.com). Enco was bought by MSC a few years ago. There are different kinds of lubrication ports. Grease fittings, or zerks, require a grease gun. Oil will leak out of a grease gun and make a big mess, so you can only use grease in those. There is a kind of oil or grease fitting that's a spring loaded ball in the middle of a brass circle. The whole thing is usually about a 1/4 inch in diameter. Those use a grease gun or oiler that comes down to a point on the end so it pushes the ball in and the grease goes around the ball. That is a straight push, in-line type dispenser. Then there is the oil cup with a spring loaded lid that is filled with a pump oil can. I hope this description is good enough to be of some help.

There is also a grease port on the left side of the head with a pipe plug. It takes a special tube of grease that screws into the hole. You can call Bridgeport about that. They were bought by Hardinge a while back. You can Google to find them.

The epoxy based paints usually last the longest. Check the industrial supply places for machine paint.

The chicken and the spider were probably both being chased by Col. Sanders.

That will change in 23 days Possibly, but.. She likes to Flyfish, and she shoots, so maybe not. But, I am not one to change much, so it may be a test of wills She is probably just waiting until she's the beneficiary of yours.

Doug- A small amount of movement in lockup doesn't hurt anything. You can peen the material of the notches back where it came from with a flat bottom punch and a small hammer. That will tighten things up a bit and you get to start over with the notches the same as new.

You should melt both ends whether you glue it or not. Don't melt the middle part.

I have used just about every kind of DRO made since they first came out. The ones that always seem to stay accurate the longest are Accu-Rite. They are very high quality. That's the only kind I will buy. All Accu-Rite models are good, it's just a matter of what features you want or can afford. The Accu-Rite VUE looks like the best value. It goes to 2 tenths where most readouts only go to 5 tenths (half a thousandth). I paid $2700.00 for my .0002 Master MP abot 12 years ago and it doesn't have a video screen, just 2 number displays. I use it on a daily basis and it shows no signs of wearing out or becoming less accurate. You only need 2 axes, X and Y. The dial on the knee stays accurate because gravity keeps all the slack out of that leadscrew. That is the Z axis.