cheers623

Gng4life....sorry my bad. Had the Grams and you're right about the design. The thing I didn't like about them was the material. I train around concrete floors and busted a few too easily. Regarding the TTI pads, it sounds like they're going to be the same as Bolens used to be before they got bought by Taran. Keep the input coming and thanks for the replys, Cheers623 DVC

So I've been using Dawson basepads for years and been very happy with them. My only complaint is that they are big-feeling in the hand and sometimes hinder my getting a good grip during a heated reload. I've seen the Taran Tactical basepads and they look well made and possibly much more comfortable to grip on the magazine. However, how hard is it to get them off when the spring and follower are in the mag? The basepads I've tried in the past like Grams and Bolens are a hassle to disassemble because the spring catches in the bottom of the basepads and I'm always having to stick a screwdriver or something to pry the springs up over the lip of the basepad to slide them off. I'm always afraid I'll bend or stretch the mag springs out of shape when taking them off. Reassembly is easy enough but the takedown seems to be a hassle. Any wisdom or tricks to it? Otherwise I'll stick with the ease of takedown with the Dawson pads. Thanks in advance for any info and advice. Oh yeah...if I do buy them, who has em in stock? Looked everywhere... Cheers623 DVC

I had this same dilemma. A pistol that I had built by Springfield Armory has a .115" front and a .155" rear notch. I love that sight picture with my aging eyes and get great hits with it. So, I just took my rear sight to JPL Precision to have him cut the rear notch to .150" and I ordered a .110" from Dawson Precision. It's not going to be exactly the same but the ratio of front to rear sight width should be close enough....I'm hoping. It's not just the width ratio though. I really think that the wider/bigger front sight post is just easier for me to pick up. I'm used to having .100" width front posts on all my guns. Anyway, that's what I'd do. Hope it helps. Cheers623 DVC

Amen to the last post. I've owned and carried an Aluminum framed VIP and I'm a big guy (6'+, 200 lbs) in good shape. I'm not a wimp about carrying a large gun based on weight or size. But, hi-cap 1911 type pistols, while in theory being similar in size to a single stack 1911, are a real burden to carry. You basically have to dress around the concealment rig. You'll have to spend big money on a quality leather or Kydex concealment rig and then dress everyday around that gun and gear. Eventually you'll get tired of it and start leaving it at home. While I am a huge fan of the 1911/2011 platform for home defense and competition, I find that anything more than an aluminum framed 3-4" single stack 1911 is a huge PITA to carry daily. Not saying it can't be done, just saying its a real hassle. Even the 3" officer sized guns can be a pain. I bought a Kahr PM9 and a Glock 26 and ALWAYS have one or the other on me and usually forget they're there. For the few years I did carry the 1911/2011 platform I was painfully aware of it EVERYDAY! I probably spent almost as much money trying out concealment rigs as I did on the various guns. My two cents...for what it's worth. Cheers623 DVC

Perfect way to test it as long as you're making around the same velocity with those two loads. I'll say this about the various bullets I've tried. Generally the lead/moly coated bullets feel softer when loaded to the same velocity as plated or jacketed bullets with plated being the 2nd softest followed lastly by jacketed bullets. The main difference being how hard the bullets are and the force it takes to drive them thru the barrel. However, I've tried many different plated bullets and they seem to vary greatly on their hardness/plating thickness from brand to brand. Some are almost as hard as jacketed! I started out shooting USPSA using Montana Gold jacketed bullets. They're great product, consistent, accurate, well made....but hard as hell and expensive. Then I switched to Bear Creek moly-coated lead. Really soft shooting, cheap, plentiful, and pretty consistent...but smoky depending on powder used and dirty as crap in the loading process and handling....oh, and most importantly my indoor range won't let me shoot them! Then went thru all the plated brands and arrived at Rainier Ballistics plated bullets. They're almost as soft shooting as lead/moly, very consistent, accurate in all my guns, and very clean to handle and shoot along with being very reasonably priced depending on where you get them. I only have to adjust my powder charge up .1-.2 grains max to make the same velocity as lead. Hope that helps and good luck with the testing! Cheers623 DVC

While felt recoil is subjective from shooter to shooter there are a few things to think about here. The first and most important is basic physics. For every action, there is an equal and opposite reaction. The faster a bullet travels down and then out of a barrel the more recoil it will produce. Thus, the lead and moly-coated bullets which are softer generally than plated or jacketed bullets will take less engraving force to travel thru the rifled barrel and produce higher velocities. These higher velocities will produce more recoil. The harder the bullet and thus more force expended traveling thru the barrel will result in slower velocities and less recoil. This assumes that you are using the same powder charge weight and bullet weight and only substituting one type of bullet for another. I.e. plated or jacketed for lead/moly coated. Now, if you adjust the powder charge weight so that you drive the harder bullets (plated/jacketed) at the SAME velocity as the softer bullets (lead/moly) you will have to use more powder, which creates more of the "rocket engine" effect of hot expanding gasses coming from the muzzle which will translate into more felt recoil. Thus, generally speaking, jacketed bullets traveling at the same velocity as lead bullets will produce more recoil, assuming you're using the same gun, same spring weight, and only increasing the powder charge weight to drive it the same speed as the lead/softer bullets. Hope that makes it clear as mud. I learned from extensive trial and error experimentation and reading until the light finally went on in my dull noggin. Cheers623 DVC

I've had fantastic accuracy from the MG 200gr flat-nose. They look like truncated cone hollow points without the cavity. However, they are very accurate and I'm using Ramshot Competition powder, 4.7gr, COAL of 1.250", Winchester Large pistol primers. YMMV Cheers623 DVC

CR Speed used to make a muzzle cup instead of the caliber specific nipple platform. Someone might have one of those they'd give you. I used to prefer them over the newer style when I used a CR Speed. Just a thought, Cheers623 DVC

I've seen quite a few shooters (mostly Open) have problems with Aftecs failing. Either the little springs go soft and lose tension or the hook breaks off because of a stuck case or metal fatigue, or crud/ brass shavings builds up inside he tunnel containing it and it can't move enough. I don't think they are any more or less likely to have issues than a properly fit and tuned traditional extractor. I've used Aftecs in both my Limited and Open guns and my main complaint is the little springs getting lost or trying to find one or both of the springs with the "right" amount of tension. Sometimes this required using only 1 of the springs instead of both as well as fiddling with a bag of them to see which little spring was harder or softer. Also, part of tuning/fitting the aftec is to alter/radius the right edge of the firing pin stop to allow the Aftec to move with the case rim. My experience with doing that is that you may no longer be able to get a standard extractor to fit and function properly after this change. Thus you'd need a spare Aftec or additional fitted firing pin stop in addition. I think they are good parts but have long since gone back to traditional extractors and learned to fit and tune them. The cost of one Aftec is as much as 2-3 extractors depending on brand. Most extractor problems arise from poor fitting or lack of tuning that then come to light when using poor quality ammo that's not properly case gauged or beat up brass rims, poor maintenance, chamber issues.etc. etc. Either design will have trouble curing those issues. By the way...a spare fitted firing pin stop is a good thing to have in the range bag regardless of the type of extractor you choose. Hope my $.02 is at least helpful, Cheers623 DVC

I hope this helps. I have used N320 for the last 8 years. Love it. However, with availability being scarce...understatement, and expensive I started testing other powders. I was using N320 for 9mm minor loads for my wife, .40 major for my limited gun, and .45 cap major for my single stack gun. Well, I finally tried Ramshot Competition and it is fantastic! I literally use the same powder charge weight in all of my above listed loads and get 10-20 fps increase in velocity with much more consistent/ narrower extreme spreads. Spending on which burn rate chart you look at they are almost interchangeable. My experience is that they are intchangeable but as always...use caution and find out for your self. Two things regarding it both pro and con. It's much cheaper and much moe readily available. Burns relatively clean too. However, it stinks...subjective..I know. It's a very small/fine powder so tends to stick to the inside of my powder hopper when the air is dry and there is a lot of static in the vicinity of my loading space. I only notice the smell in indoor ranges or when doing stand and shoot stages. I probably couldn't recommend a better replacement for N320. I like N320 but am giving up on it for all the reasons listed. Hope that helps. YMMV Cheers623 DVC

I've used Ramshot Comp in .40. Currently using 4.8gr of it with 180gr Rainier HP plated bullets at 1.180" COAL. It makes 175pf in my 5" KKM barreled STI custom build. For many years I've used VV N320 and have found that you can almost substitute straight across numbers for Vihta Vourhi 320 loads to Ramshot Competition. Of course, you should start low and work up but that's my experience. Currently using in both my .40 major loads as well as my wife's 9mm minor loads. Love the Ramshot! Hope that helps, Cheers623 DVC

They have no web presence at all. Only telephone and that's hit or miss. I don't have the number on me right now but will try and post later. If you do get ahold of them...place a big order. Make it count. It can be weeks between a lucky strike or not with them answering the phone. If lead-moly is your thing they make great bullets. I've fired 10,000s of them. Great product. However, due to joining an indoor range along with some other shooting revelations I'm switching to plated...whenever I can find em. Good luck, Cheers623 DVC

Everything james57 just said. I just got one from my Cabelas and it is fantastic. Best decision I ever made. Also, bolt it to the floor. Cheers623 DVC

The GI style ones should be no problem. The only thing to watch for with full length is that they aren't too long and will allow you to turn the barrel bushing without binding. Otherwise you're good to go. Cheers623 DVC

Tried Wilson, Chip McCormick .38 supers, Wilson ETMS, and Dawson's. The first three worked but where inconsistent and needed tweaking. The Dawson's have been perfect from day one with no issues what so ever. They're spendy but worth EVERY penny. YMMV Cheers623 DVC

Dawson Precision, front sights, tritium. That's where to look for exactly what you need. Cheers623 DVC

Here's my dual-slide .40 SW built by JPL Precision in WA state. I wanted to try both 5" and 6" guns. I ended up liking 5" better. Great guns built by a great guy. Enjoy... Cheers623 DVC

When you say the trigger didn't reset do you mean the hammer did not stay cocked? If a 1911 trigger is set up properly there's nothing you should be able to do to cause that. The exception being if you have an exceptionally light trigger. Say lighter than around 2 pounds. Even then, a quality trigger job will hold if done correctly. So, if this is a factory stock trigger pull you shouldn't be having trouble. More info please. Cheers623 DVC

All in all the .40 is simply the most versatile gamer round. Regardless of the game you shoot. Pretty much the above statement is the really best reason. Recoil impulse, cost, convenience, etc. is all subjective to the individual. However, .40 is just about the most versatile round to experiment with for both major and minor PF over multiple platforms.

I went with another "well known", "great guy", gunsmith a few years back and got hosed as well. Same deal as yours, tried being polite and respectfully check in via email and phone every 6-8 weeks when I was originally told 3-4 weeks total. After about a year I received the gun with no notice and surprise, the work was not what I had asked for. I presented this "great guy" with all of the email correspondence and he threatened to blacklist me with other gunsmiths if i told anyone. At least he refunded my money...minus parts cost! The above is why I went with my local guy, John Larson of JPL Precision for my next build. He truly is a great guy and great gunsmith AND, I could go to his shop. The old adage is as true now as ever...BUYER BEWARE!

That's a smokin deal if the gun is low round count and in good shape.

Thanks! I love it!

Here's my JPL Precision 5" Tactical .40 Limited gun. I'd been shooting a factory STI Tactical for years that pulled double duty as my home defense gun and just liked the way the gun balanced and so wanted a premium built version. It's not your blinged-out race gun but it's got all top-shelf parts, tight-ass lockup, and accurate as the day is long. I settled for a business black Duracoat finish. While I absolutely love looking at all of the pics on this thread of the Space-Guns, my personality is just suited towards a straightforward weapon that I can compete and train with and avoid any extraneous frills. John was great to work with on the project and had the patience of a statue working with me. I wanted to get more Glamour shots of it but I couldn't wait any longer to start beating on it and ruin the finish. THANKS JOHN! Cheers623 DVC

Awesome!

When I bought my first 2011 from Dawson Precision, the first thing I asked was ability to use factory ammo. Dave said "get the super tuning" package. I did and have on every 2011 I've bought from him since then. They all run factory ammo with no problems. I think that most problems came early on when the feed ramp angles that STI was putting on the barrels was too steep i.e. feed wall. Now, however, they are cut differently and should run factory ammo with little or no tuning. For peace of mind, I always have my feed ramps polished and check and tune the extractors but this should be SOP on ANY 1911/2011 pistol. The other important factor is to ensure that the mags you use are within spec and feed lips in good shape. If they are, you shouldn't have problems running any factory ammo. My nightstand gun ONLY gets factory ammo put in it and it's never had a problem. To be clear, I'm talking about 9mm and .40 caliber. I've never had experience with their .45 double stack guns. Cheers623 DVC