cheers623

It doesn't touch the sear itself. However it does touch the right-most sear-spring leg that provides positive engagement of the GS trigger bow stop arm. If you're going to disable the GS anyway, sometimes grinding/cutting off that stop arm will help keep the sear spring from moving in the frame channel as much. It's still a better idea to peen the sides of the spring to eliminate side to side play or just replace with a 2011 specific sear spring as mentioned above. Cheers623 DVC

Hope this helps. I've fitted a few of these and am a lefty so want the fit tight and reliable on both sides. I've taken a file or Dremel cutoff wheel and relieved a small amount of metal from the inner sides of both of the outside female tongues so that there is a tiny inward bevel. Then I file or Dremel the male tongue on both sides so that it is flat. Then I use pliers to lightly squeeze them both together and work them in and out while outside of the gun to burnish the parts. Then I fit them and they usually stay pretty tight and functional. Occassionally I'll have to squeeze them back together to tighten them while in the gun but they always work. Hope that helps and wish I had pics I could post to clarify. Cheers623 DVC

It'll help a I tiny bit but not as much as preening the sides to remove the slop. Another suggestion is to wrap the bottom of the spring with masking or electrical tape enough that it won't wiggle and allow the spring to slip off. Try that. Hope it helps. Cheers623 DVC

IPSC friendly range with good selection of rentals. Indoor or outdoor is fine. Just want to take the family out and look for future match possibilities. Plinking, etc. thanks!

Topic says it all. Any help greatly appreciated. Cheers623 DVC

Sometimes the guiderods are machined a little on the plus size as far as length and this can cause difficulty in moving the barrel bushing past it when stripping the gun. I've had this issue with a few guns and have a couple tricks. First, when trying to strip it, place your strong hand thumb on the back of the slide and press forward so that the slide does not move back any while turning the bushing. This will help get maximum clearance of the end of the guiderod if it's a tight fit. Another trick is to pull the slidestop out first and run the slide forward a little bit. This will definitely help clear the end of the guiderod. Third, you can lightly stone the end of the guiderod to remove just enough material to make it easier to clear. Fourth idea, try another guiderod, with Dawson Tool-less being my hands down favorite for any type of 1911/2011! Fifth, yank it out and replace with a G.I. length guiderod. That's the easiest and it's what I do with my single stack gun. One less hassle at matches to worry about. However, I've got nothing against the longer ones. As far as weight of recoil springs, in my dedicated self defense .40 with full power loads I use a Wolff 14#. In my game guns with 172 power factor loads I like the ISMI 12.5# in my 5" slide and 11# Wolff in the 6" slide. Hope that helps, Cheers623 DVC

My wife's gun is the 9mm Trojan. We used 9 round STI mags for years and had zero problems. Then we tried 10 round .38 super Chip McCormicks. Nothing but problems. Then we recently tried Wilson 10rd ETMs and again have had many failures to feed. Just ordered 2 Tripp Cobra 10 rounders and will post how they do. For what it's worth, we got the gun from Dawson's and had Dave super-tune the gun. It has been great until we started with the 10 rounder experiment. She's pissed because she wants those 10 rounds because she's shooting minor Single Stack and has the steel target fever...you know...bullets start magically missing in rapid succession? Oops, did I say that? Don't tell her I said that. Cheers623 DVC

What gun are you using the sear spring in? If you are using a traditional 1911 sear spring in a plastic gripped 2011 type pistol they can occasionally wiggle too far to the left and the left most spring leg will slip off the sear. I believe Dawson makes a sear spring specifically for the 2011 grip or, you can do what I do and others do and take a small punch and dimple the lower outside edges of the sear spring at the bottom enough to raise the material out and take out the wiggle room in the grip. That way it stays put when you install it. Does that make sense you you? Am I describing what what the problem youre having is? Hope that helps, Cheers623 DVC

Awesome thread! Have been struggling with vision issues this year and this explains and helps ALOT! Thanks guys, Cheers623 DVC

I'm getting ready to list one. PM me if you want. Cheers623 DVC

mmm...bacon...

I think that mostly applies to Single-Stack pistols where some makers have indeed put spacers in the mag tubes to accommodate .40 length rounds. In these .40 Single-stacks, some people load long and use 10mm mags without the spacers. However, in double stack pistols I don't know of anyone that makes a spacer for .40, only 9mm. I think, at least as far as the 2011/Para platform, that both use the same double stack mag tubes for both .40 or 10mm. If there is a difference at all it might be in the length of the feedlips but I don't think so. Hope this answers some of your question. Cheers623 DVC

I think you can use any ramped 40 barrel in whatever configuration(bull or bushing) as long as it has a Wilson/Nowlin ramp. Hope that helps. Cheers623 DVC

Ok, hate to ask this but I am going to shoot SSTK next season and have an SV on my gun. Would love to see a few pics of the 'business' end of the above poster's competition guns to get an idea. All of the promo shots don't show much. Thanks! Cheers623 DVC

THanks a Million and Merry Christmas! Cheers623

Just to throw out a suggestion. I did a taste-test comparison yesterday with 100 rounds of each of 231 and WST loaded to the same power factor. SLow-fire, bill drills, and timing drills. The 231 was ever so slightly softer feeling than the WST but WAY Dirtier and Smokier than the WST. THey both felt good and metered well. Just liked the cleaner, less smokey way the WST shot. YMMV. Was shooting Vit.N320 before and either of these was an improvement in .45ACP in my opinion. Happy Holidays! Cheers623 DVC

Boy, that was exactly the load I was getting ready to ask about. Competition with Bear Creek 200 RN. A friend of mine let me shoot his load which sounds almost exactly like yours, Duncan. It felt great! I was loading Beat Creek 230RN with Vit. N320 and his load felt MUCH softer. What is your OAL on this load and what PF are you making? Is it in a 5" 1911? More info would be much appreciated! Thanks in advance Cheers623 DVC

Mike, thanks for sharing your observations. I am OCD about trying to analyze things like this in our 'game'. Even though your sample set is tiny it does provide some information. The 'overthinker' in me loves even that small tidbit. However, I have to keep reminding myself that it's the Indian and not the Arrow. An interesting side note, I once read that Rob Leatham had score keepers run his scores both Major and Minor at a few of the MANY SingleStack championships he won. I believe that they found that a few of them he would have won either way when they ran the scores. I guess that just confirms the Indian vs Arrow thing. Thanks again for sharing, Cheers623 DVC

Most of these pistols get a .100" width by .180" height. I prefer more light on either side of the front post so would probably go with opening up the rear notch to .135-140" with a .100" width front OR keep the rear notch the same and get a .090" front width. The .180" height is pretty standard for 1911/2011 setups. Hope that helps. Cheers623 DVC

I've shot one as my main competition pistol for 5 years now. I started off with one from Dawson Precision to be my house gun/ competition gun, pulling double duty. Since then I've purchased another one to be my dedicated comp gun and retired the other one to the nightstand. I've also had JPL Precision build me one with 2 slides, 5" and 6". All three guns feel the same and it is a tremendous feeling of confidence when I grab the one on my nightstand late at night to see what I heard. I've burned up maybe 70-80,000 rounds through these guns and I know I have the skills and muscle memory to make hits when needed. Being that you bought one in .45 I would recommend shooting L10 division because of the reduced mag capacity compared to the .40 cal guns. However, shoot whatever division you want (limited, open) if you just want to run the gun in the heat of "battle". I have run the hell out of mine and love the balance of that light rail dust cover with bull barrel combo. It just feels right to me. Shoot it and enjoy! By the way, Daniel Horner of the USAMU team uses one in 3-gun and steel and may use one in limited division. Not sure. However, he shoots his pretty damn well. Cheers623 DVC

200 Gr. Bear Creek Molys.

The final way you fixed it is the way many of us do. Maybe even try a little more angle on the parts. It makes them tough to take out but they stay together better. Usually they work out just a little and then stay there with your fix method. As far as Ed Browns which are great, youll still have the same problem. I've had this issue with Wilson, Ed Brown, STI, Springfield etc etc. Only other fix is the captured types like Caspian, Kimber, King's, and the new Wilson version. Good luck. Cheers623 DVC

Awesome info guys. Thanks! Keep it comin. Cheers623 DVC

Getting ready to send off my Springfield 5" for some warranty work and new sights. It has the factoryNovak rear cut so am stuck with that configuration. I was thinking about Heine fixed rear .140" width notch and a plain black front .100" width post. Any wisdom? I have searched and found many threads on the black vs. fiber optic front sight debate and will try the plain black front this time. I guess I'm just looking for input on front and rear widths on a 5" SS for USPSA competition. Other combinations or makers suggestions are welcome. I noticed Sevigny won SS using his Warren fixed sights. However, I can't find the widths liste for his setup. Anyway, thanks for any input. Cheers623 DVC

Thanks SUPERDUDE, that may in fact be the problem. I think I read that somewhere too. Probably in the Kunhausen book. I am going to use a new sear with a longer nose and see if I can't get this pig fixed. Any other advice is welcome... Cheers623 DVC