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Found 11 results
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Who makes good steel plate racks, texas stars and moving target stands. I"m looking for a fast swinging target stand for USPSA practice and currently interested in R&R Racing Inc. Does anyone have knowledge of them and if they would work indoor as well as outdoor. randrrachingonline.com
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Check out this page on how to build a cheap portable target stand! These are crazy durable. Even withstood some withering fire from a full auto SBR. With some minor repairs afterwards. https://www.instructables.com/id/PVC-Target-Stand-10/
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I have a pretty big L- shaped basement that makes a good dojo. Can get up to a 10 yard shot in there but need to improve array variety. Typically put three targets along a big TV stand and then use blue tape to scatter scaled down 1/3rd targets to create the option for longer shots and various arrays. Anyone have good ideas for cheap / adjustable full sized target holders? My kids plastic music sheet holder is great but I only have one. Was thinking of making some out of wood with dowels and clips or something. Ideas and pictures are appreciated!
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Hoping someone can point me in the right direction. I've loaded Xtreme 200gr SWC over 4.9gr of TiteGroup @ 1.230" with great accuracy at 167 PF. I decided to try some Xtreme 200gr Plated RN @ 1.240" but have seen HUGE swings in velocity (+/-40 FPS), and random tumbling. I've tried 4.9gr (154.2 PF) of Titegroup up to 5.4gr to finally achieve an avg 827 FPS (165.4 PF), but the velocity swings are terrible and 5.4gr of TG is WAY too hot. I'm getting lead spirals on close targets, so I know the heat is vaporizing the lead. Any recommendations or suggestions for other powders and/or load data would be much appreciated. Notes: Large CCI pistol primers, I've tried crimping less/more. Firearm is a Springfield Loaded Target .45 government 1911. I shoot 180gr Plated RN .40 over 4.7gr of Titegroup @ 1.180" with +/- 15 FPS velocities. Thanks in advance.
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Hi All, I wanted to discuss one of the areas I believe I really need to focus some training time on, which is how I approach targets that are partially obscured/occluded - either by hard cover, no shoots, or another target (overlapped targets). By reviewing scores from local matches and specifically focusing on stages with vs without partially obscured targets, I've found that I typically end up 10-20% higher in the field/standings on stages without these targets compared to those with them - to me, this tells me I'm doing something wrong. More specifically, I believe I've isolated my issue to simply needing to understand where the best point of aim is on such a target. Shooting production, the B and C zone are a scary place to be, but part of me wonders if it's actually worth taking a faster 2 shots with a point of aim on the perf between the exposed A/C zones (whether that be lateral or vertical depending on the obscuring object) and risking dropping 2-4 points, than taking the time to find the perfect sight picture for the reduced size A zone and/or potentially risking the Mike/No Shoot. I know this all comes down to the HF math and true "time value" of the 2-4 points down on the target vs the potential risk for a mike and extended time to secure a clear enough sight picture, etc., etc., etc., but I'd be interested in knowing how other shooters approach these partially obscured targets, from a mental standpoint of acceptable sight picture, as well as how (if at all) you modify your point of aim. Appreciation in advance Guys and Gals!
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I wasn't sure where to post this..
optimator posted a topic in Target & Prop Design and Construction
I wasn't sure where to post this, so if a mod needs to move it, no butthurt here. Here is my pictorial for DIY silhouette targets. I've never measured them, but they are pretty close to life size. From now on say "Paper" not plastic. Cut it in half. Cut the top to the back. BOOM. Free sorta IDPA targets. -
So I couldn't find ANY info on the internet on this topic, so I'm beginning a new thread. I own a CZ 75 Tactical Sport and do all my own gunsmithing. I've done a lot of work to my gun, all of it myself. I'll attach a list at the bottom of this page. As many of you probably know, through CZ USA and CZ Custom (http://czcustom.com/CZ75SAOTrigger.aspx), you can buy a flat-blade trigger for the Tactical Sport. Pretty cool, right? Well, for dudes like me with monster hands (and/or long fingers) that trigger sits so far back in the trigger guard that my trigger finger looks like a pirate hook to get the pad of my finger tip on the trigger for the perfect "press". It had a great feel, but I can't manipulate the trigger fast enough with my finger shaped like a booger-hook, so I went searching elsewhere for custom triggers for the TS, and the ONLY place to get them (someone correct me if I'm wrong but I scoured the interwebs looking) is on the CZ UB website. For those that don't know, the CZ corporation can be broken down into three divisions that sell stuff (in regards to competition pistols): CZ UB - (Uhersky Brod) - The CZ mothership in the Czech Republic, where all the cool but hard-to-find stuff comes from. (Like the Tactical Sport Orange) CZ USA - (Kansas, USA) - The CZ distributor for the US. They import from the CZ mothership, and sell much of what CZ UB sells, but not ALL of it (or it's hard to get). CZ Custom - (Arizona, USA) - The "Custom Shop" for CZ. They do business as "Ghost Products". This shop is run by Angus Hobdell, a Grand Master and team CZ shooter and know-it-all (in a very good way). They sell much of what CZ USA/UB sells, plus many products in-house that you can ONLY get there. I've navigated this maze for many months now as I built up my Tactical Sport. So with this topic of "what comes from where" covered, the rest of this will make more sense. CZ UB's online shop sells some really cool stuff, that is ONLY available through their online shop. This includes the custom triggers I'm going to discuss. So they make several different trigger "shoes" (just the trigger itself, that doesn't affect pull weight, etc.) that are apparently designed for different hand sizes and purposes. This is RAD. STI/SVI 2011's are about the only other pistols I know of that you can find triggers designed for different ergonomics. The problem is, you have to order them through the international CZ UB site, and shipping is expensive, and more importantly (for me) was how long it would take to get to me, would the trigger get through customs, etc. Well, I jumped through the hoops and bought one, and holy crap is it worth it. So with that said, here is a link to the shop where these can be found: http://www.shop-cz.com/sporting-parts-ipsc/c-1204/ Here's what they offer, all in a variety of colors: ^This is CZ UB's Straight Trigger. Slightly Different than the one CZ Custom sells. ^This is CZ UB's "Target" Trigger. Has slightly more curve than the factory Tactical Sport trigger. ^This is CZ UB's Aluminum Trigger that is identical in shape to the stock TS trigger, just aluminum rather than polymer. ^This is the "small hands" trigger. It moves the curve of the trigger very far back in the trigger guard, so it's easily reachable for small hands. ^This is the "large hands/long finger" trigger. It has a shape like the target trigger, but moved forward to INCREASE the reach to the trigger, so that the aformentioned "booger hook" isn't an issue, and someone with longer fingers can comfortably use the pad of the finger to manipulate the trigger... like you SHOULD be doing. At the current exchange rate, these come out to about $25! Totally a deal in my book, despite paying for added shipping costs. So I went through the purchase process to get the long finger trigger, and wanted to share my experience so if anyone else out there has considered the same thing but wasn't sure about it, they could at least use my experience to know if it's worth it. So here's what I did: I went to the site, and created an account (which you must do first). I then added the trigger to the cart, and began checking out like you would at any other online shop. I used Google to check what the total was going to come out to before I placed my order. I selected "Worldwide Express" shipping, that was about $50. Considering this is the ONLY place to get these, I was willing to pay this for the trigger. The checkout process asks for everything but payment info when you "confirm" your order. In total, it came in at about $80 shipped. I immediately got an email asking for payment info through a secure online payment site. I entered all the info and hit "confirm". Several hours later (I assumed when they opened up shop on the other side of the world) I got an email confirming everything, and offering a cheaper shipping option. I replied that I did want the express shipping (assuming it would still take weeks). I got a final confirmation email, including a DHL confirmation number. This was on Wednesday, October 7th. To my astonishment, the expensive shipping I paid for was VERY fast. The trigger was at my door on Monday, October 12th. It installed into the gun perfectly. Holy crap was it worth it. It acheived exactly what I was after. In my personal opinion, it was absolutely worth the $50 shipping cost on top of the relatively cheap $25 cost of the trigger. The ONLY thing I would have done different would be to throw a few more things in the shopping cart to get the most of my $50 shipping cost. There you have it. Whether you were aware of their custom triggers or not, or knew of them but weren't sure about ordering from an international online shop, it was painless and the result was great, especially if you consider biting the bullet for $50 shipping worth it to ensure your expensive pistol has the perfect trigger for you in it. Considering my CZ 75 Tactical Sport is worth well over $2,000 at this point, it did not seem too crazy to me to spend $80 on a trigger that "fits" me perfectly... especially since there is only one place to get it. I'll get some pics posted of the finished gun soon, but for now, here's a phone pic of the trigger after I got it out of the packaging.
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Target Acquisition Speed - What is it and how can we train to improve our speed? Something I got today, from again listening to Enos' Audio book while reloading ammo, was his statement that what really differentiates the top shooters when all is said and done, with respect to speed, is Target Acquisition Speed. Wow! I have been dancing around this for two weeks or more (for years tangentially), trying to figure out what I needed to work on to shorten my performance times on the clock. All the usual, and appropriate areas were reviewed including gun handling, movement skills, keeping gun up and ready to shoot sooner when appropriate to do so, and I ended up settling on needing to speed up the SHOOTING parts of my game. Well, obviously, with my actual splits of between .14 and .21 on 90% of targets and match speed draws of between .95 and 1.25 on 90% of targets - these were not places I could gain a lot at this juncture, and certainly do not explain my time difference with the top shooters. So I KNEW it was going to be related to transitions, so I tried to muddle my way thru breaking transitions down into the many aspects of which transitions are composed. Here I mean, besides the all important time wasters and gains due to efficient body movement, being ready to shoot at the earliest possible time and recruiting the legs for swinging from target to target instead of the arms and upper body, trigger prepping, etc. BUT aside from all of those aspects of transitions, the 800 pound gorilla not yet mentioned here in this list, is VISUAL TARGET ACQUISITION speed. And this is what Brian made me think about today. It is clear to me that this is where much time is gained or lost in our performances. On the extreme dullard end, which I actually did on at least one transition in my last match, the Florida Open only two weeks ago, is keeping essentially a sight focus during transitioning the gun from array to array. You know, where you maintain your upper body triangle and rotate mechanically eyes/head and gun TOGETHER! Slow and hard to find or land on the next target. Well, the other end extreme is to move eyes to next target before or while still shooting the last one! We have all done that on close targets and hard ones alike, and then are "amazed" to discover we had mikes when scoring the stage! " I had a perfect sight picture"!, Yes, but NOT when we released the shot! So between these extremes, there is a large continuum and spectrum of varying capabilities and speeds among shooters. And this, I believe, as Brian said, is what differentiates the top shooters most in their performance times. Obviously, we all, at least intellectually, understand that we should move our eyes to the next target AFTER completing the last shot on the last target having given whatever follow thru that particular target/shot required. And THEN the gun follows slightly BEHIND the eyes moving towards the next target. On any given transition and array, different shooters will have different capabilities and speeds associated with this target acquisition. And it is all complicated further by each shooter's ability and judgment and skill in instantly determining when they see what they need to for the transition shot. A top shooter can do this much quicker than a beginner or even an intermediate shooter. Not just the optical part of the process, but the MENTAL part especially. Many of us often WASTE time over-refining our "sight picture" beyond what was actually necessary to shoot an A. An A is an A, both are 5 points, right? NOPE! Not if one A took 1.2 seconds and another shooter got the same A hit on the same target in .70 seconds. Right? HF? Assuming the faster shooter won the stage, then the slower shooter only gets 58.33% of the winner's stage points or 2.91 stage points for their slower A. Man, target math is important. This is empirical evidence that the speed of that transition matters HUGELY in scores and match performance. So we want to be able to speed up transitions, the target acquisition aspect specifically as we are discussing here. Well, this is what I want to figure out, specific to my own individual capabilities and limitations (age, eyesight, etc) - How can we TRAIN ourselves to SEE FASTER? And this presumes, as I truly believe, that we CAN in fact do so. I will research this and report back what I find and learn and figure out. I am anxious to hear from anyone with thoughts on this subject!
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I remember seeing something about this a long time ago but I cannot find the thread. Current setup: CZ SP-01 Shadow Target with factory FO front and BO MAR adjustable rear CZ SP-01 CZC Accu Shadow with HAJO rear and CZ Custom front FO sight. I would like to change the setup on both guns to have a Dawson FO front and CZ Adjustable BO MAR style rear sites. I like the current setup on the Shadow Target with regards to sight height, I just like the Dawson front better. The intent is to have a training gun and comp gun with the same sight setup. The rear sight part is easy and I have a local shop for the LPA cut but the front is more complicated and I'd like to get it right the first time if possible. What I need to do: Accu Shadow: remove my existing HAJO rear and CZ Custom front site and replace both Shadow Target: Just replace front sight These are the parts I want to use: Dawson Front site: https://www.dawsonprecision.com/ProductDetail.jsp?LISTID=80001716-1388518374 CZ adjustable BO MAR style rear: http://czcustom.com/trtchampionlpacutts.aspx So what I'm looking for: 1) What height Dawson sight do I need to replicate the CZ factory FO sight off the Shadow Target. Dawson measures their sights differently than CZ so its not just a math the specs kind of deal. 2) Since the Target has a front sight roll pin and the Accu does not, can the same model sight be adapted to both guns. What parts/tools do I need to fit a sight to the Accu shadow? Thanks
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Still trying how best to aim with the open gun. For those who have read BE's book, you know about the different shooting focal points. These all make perfect sense for guns with iron sights. Should this change when shooting open with a red dot? Take 'Type 3' focus for example, where the idea is to focus on your sight and not your target. When using a red dot, is it better to focus on your dot, or should you always focus on your target and the dot just "appear" on the target?
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Have you guys tried to use the SIRT training pistol with any of the laser-activated targets, like the Laserlyte targets? If so, do they work well together? Thanks!
