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Fix for the snapping shellplate on a 650


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Had one other thot on the below the shellplate friction topic... I found that McMaster Carr has PTFE film... In fact, they have a 12" wide sheet that is adhesive backed and only .005" thick.... while you'd have to cut and or punch holes for the ball detent and the caming lever, you just might get away with something like that... Basically you cut a round piece the outside diameter of the entire shell plate are (a little larger than the shellplate), then you'put it down and then the shellplate, bearing, bolt...

Only problem is it will take a beating both in compression and in turn/twist... not sure how well it would last... They also have some with out glue that is .002" thick. Not sure how to stick it.

However, what I don't know is if this is even needed... I show no signs of wearing of the shell plate to the aluminum pad beneath it, so I'm thinking the only friction is from the caming lever and ball detent and there simply is no way to minimize those...

Anyway, I did so some checking and found the above.

YMMV,

Alan

So, always searching for that incremental improvement... I ordered a 12" x 12" sheet of the .005 PTFE adhesive back film mentioned above. Got it today.

I debated whether to stick it to the underside of the shell plate or the top of the plate below the shellplate. In the end, I stuck it to the .40 shellplate that I had in there. Bottom line, it works great and provides that incremental small improvement that make this setup able to crank at will and have no snapping whatsoever... Even the bearing alone, arrangement had an ever so slight amount of snap. In reality, this PTFE film probably just lets me tighten the center bolt a smidge more and compress the ball that much more, but non-the-less it was another small improvement.

Now before you go order up some. Here's the rub - the way I did it would be required you to place it on all your shell plates. Not a big deal, but a requirement none the less. Second, this 12" x 12" sheet wasn't cheap... try approx $12 for the sheet. It looks like you need a 3" x 3" square to cover a shellplate bottom, so you can get 16 out of a Sq. Ft.

It was simply easier to cutout all the cuts on the shellplate in your hand than it is to work on the top of the ram with an exacto knife. There is a bit of trimming either way and I don't honestly know which would be better, altho on the top of the ram would allow it to be done once instead of each time for the each shellplate that you'd use.

To help with costs, if you'd like to try a 3" x 3" square on your favorite shellplate, and it might be interesting to do it on a press that hasn't had the bearing mod done. I'll cut up the rest of the sheet that I have and can offer a square to you for $1.00 plus a postage stamp... So how about you send me an SASE (self addressed Stamped Envelop) and enclose a $1, and I'll send you back a 3" x 3" piece. I've probably got 10 more pieces that I can provide and still save a couple for me... So to the first 10 that reply with an incremental count and send me the SASE, I'll send you a piece to try on your shellplate. If someone would try it first, before the bearing mod and report back that would be helpful as well.

So, any takers?

reply with a Count - the first starts at 1, and others increment from there and then PM me and I'll provide my mailing address.

Hope this isn't a PITA, if more want it, I'm fine with ordering another foot or 2 to satisfy demand... So far, this mod has fixed all my complaints about my 650!...Now if Dillon would include this as an upgrade or standard feature going forward, that would be great, course I can dream right... :)

Just figured I'd share... I'll take mine back apart tomorrow and post pictures of what I did...

BTW, final note, I had to raise my seating die by .007" as the shellplate did raise up that much as a result of this addtional material. Buttons still work perfectly and no sign of getting the bolt head too close to the bottom of the toolholder.

Thanks,

Alan

Edited by Alan Adamson
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To help with costs, if you'd like to try a 3" x 3" square on your favorite shellplate, and it might be interesting to do it on a press that hasn't had the bearing mod done. I'll cut up the rest of the sheet that I have and can offer a square to you for $1.00 plus a postage stamp... So how about you send me an SASE (self addressed Stamped Envelop) and enclose a $1, and I'll send you back a 3" x 3" piece. I've probably got 10 more pieces that I can provide and still save a couple for me... So to the first 10 that reply with an incremental count and send me the SASE, I'll send you a piece to try on your shellplate. If someone would try it first, before the bearing mod and report back that would be helpful as well.

So, any takers?

reply with a Count - the first starts at 1, and others increment from there and then PM me and I'll provide my mailing address.

Thanks,

Alan

I'll be #1.

PM Sent

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I found someone selling the "Kit" ( 2 washers and the bearing ) on the bay. My friend and I each have a 650, so I ordered 4 washers and 2 bearings from McMasters. The price from McMasters was HALF ( including shipping ) of what 2 kits on the bay were. Thanks for the Great Mod Tip. Ron

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it'll come pretty well greased up for the first round... After than any "grease gun" type grease, used sparingly should be fine... Just remember great and powder don't mix so just just a smidge on the bearing and an extremely light coat on the washers.

Alan

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  • 2 weeks later...
Need help here !

The stores mentionned above won't ship abroad.

Would anyone, who is about to order his own kit, be so kind to order a second one for me and ship it to France ?

Of course, I'll Paypal the money for the kit and shipping.

Thanks :)

+1, but to Belgium

i tried local supliers, but couldn't find it, or a imperial measurements alternative. :(

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Forum member Walter from Canada helped me out and sent me one kit. Thanks again Walter :)

In the meantime, forum member MI Packer sent me a link on Ebay, and it seems that they ship worldwwide: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...=STRK:MESELX:IT

As long as you don't mind paying more than double what it's worth. :surprise:  

I'm going to be placing an order with McMaster Carr sometime next week.  Anyone interested PM me.  I will charge $6.00 USD, plus shipping.  I will need some advice on the best / cheapest way to ship internationally.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'd been having problems with powder spillage, particularly on loading 9 major. So after a particularly frustrating reloading session last nite, I did what I should have done long ago - take a look on the forum. And sure enough, there was a posted fix. So I ordered the parts this AM. Will report my results. Thanks for sharing the fix.

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Due to the added height, I find that the ejection wire now doesn't engage the hole as much and tends to pop out. Has anyone else had this problem, and if so, what have you done about it?

I encountered the same problem. I bent the ejection wire downwards where it cleared the top shim (so that the "long leg" laid closer to the shellplate) and "twisted" the "long leg" so that the vertical bit that goes into the hole on the platform was square to the "loop." Solved the "popping out" problem - and a problem with my .223 setup where the ejection wire was hitting too high on finished rounds and jamming the shellplate rotation.

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after setting up my 650XL i decided it was time to fix the snapping shellplate issue, after reading the thread i ordered the parts and will try it on the 650s and 550s. can't wait for the parts to arrive.

thanks Adam for the great idea and attention to detail, ordering the parts thru McMaster-Carr was painless and effortless.

Update: parts came in and installed, what a difference it makes, nice and smooth, now time to put it on the rest

Edited by abcd
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I'll look in the morning, but I assume this will work with a 1050 too. I'm tired of "slow" loading my 9major match ammo.

Did anyone ever try this fix for a 1050? I have the same problem with 9mm Open. It would require a much larger needle thrust bearing, but It seems like it might work?

Edited by sidnal
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  • 2 weeks later...

I gave the fix a real test yesterday. My girlfriends 21 year old daughter came over to load up some ammo for today's match. She's been known to be a bit "hammer handed" when dealing with mechanical devices. But in less than an hour, she'd loaded up 400 rounds with no powder spillage. All I can say is what a difference!

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i just set-up my 650 last night.. so all parts were in (finally after 2 days of reading the manual and making everything is on their right places), so the first on my to-do list is to do my powder measurements.. lo and behold.. as i crank on my upshift, powder was flying all over the plate. ill read the OPs first post once i get over deciphering names on those parts that needs work. thanks for sharing!!

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For anybody in Australia who wants to try this.

My local bearing supplier didn't have them in stock but got them withing 24 hours.

Part numbers are

Timken NTA 815 for the bearing

Timken TRC 815 for the thrust washers.

Note: Those thrust washers are 1/16" thick. They did have 1/32 (.032") available but I forgot what I was supposed to be buying:wacko:

Peter

Brisbane

Australia

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