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Call https://n82tactical.com. They are extremely helpful and have the best and most comfortable holsters I've ever used. Most of them provide cushioned material and leather between you and the grip. This eliminates pinch and also keeps your body from rusting your pistol. And yes I carry a VIP, mostly in the winter with their professional holster which has a retention system.

I look forward to seeing what you have made, holsters, AR parts, motorcycle n truck stuff.. You have an extensive shop for kydex; this should be very interesting esp since I am 30 minutes away

Thanks for the info guys. I'll look into your ideas. The VIP is a great gun but I gotta find or make a comfortable holster for it. Many companies I called have customer service people who do not know what they have and it is so easy then to give you the NO answer since they nothing made specifically for the VIP. I'm going to check it out by measuring but it seems the front of the slide is about the same thickness as the Eagle I have. Then it seems the only other issue is barrel length and the square trigger guard.

Help!! Anyone have updates on who now has carry holsters for the STI VIP ? IWB OR OWB

About the play you have in the handle. On a new 1050 I have about .060" of vertical play in the main shaft on the right side. This means with the handle vertical there is about a 1/4" of play left to right (handle lifts that shaft play up and down). There is no way to tighten this up and makes the whole press movement very sloppy. I looked at this further and find the needle bearing on the right side is so loose in the casting that the bearing moves up and down and the whole bearing SPINS in the casting with each pull of the handle. WTF? I have looked at two friends' machines and find the same thing. What kind of quality control is this? Dillon tells me this is normal. Willfully and I have this sloppy main shaft . Who else has this problem and what press running issues is it making for you. ???

This is the cheapest, most reliable way to speed up your reloading and make your Dillon a Hot Rod - you can double your output. I have had a Mr. Bullet Feeder, previously known as a KISS bullet feeder, for 6 years in two calibers. It has flawlessly loaded many tens of thousands of rounds without any adjustment, breakage or other issues. In fact my sweetheart the other day noted that our bullet feeder was the most reliable part of the whole Dillon 650/1050 set up. I buy direct from Rick at RAK Systems, the Arizona engineer and creator; his customer service is phenomenal. There is not another product I have that works so flawlessly. There is now a new design marketed through Saul Kirsch's Double Alpha company. email -- Rick@MrBulletFeeder.com or check either website for details.

So then the original question really is which is a better gun. Where I live price/value always is part of the buy equation.The Versa Max sounds like a great idea for 3 gun. I am going to have to see who has one to shoot. Are all the 3-gun parts available for it like the mag tube, bolt handle, Arredondo speed loader ramp ?

Wow, I have never seen this before. I would call Benelli. They should send you a new part as this is a defective part if I ever saw one. It does come out by removing the pin. This part is usually way too stiff at the other end [from your crack] making the magazine hard to load and also impossible to unload by pushing on the cartridge retainer portion of it as it says in the manual. Many 3-gunners have been slightly deepening the two notches on the edge that are across from each other making that end of the part more flexible. One of these u-notches is visible in your pic. There is plenty of info here on Enos and the web about this modification. I wish there was a way to remove or disable the little cartridge drop lever on the Benellis. Maybe I'll get used to it eventually but it is a constant source of confusion and PIA for me and others.

"The VM is running in behind a NAT'ed firewall." Could you put this in English with a small explanation, thanks.

My absolute favorite for the ram is STP. It is very, very slippery, thick like honey and stays where you put it better than anything else l've tried. You only need a little bit and it is cheap, like $3.50 for a bottle that lasts forever.

During the heating season in IL many of us have horrible static electricity in our houses. It is caused by a combination of relatively low humidity and synthetic fabrics or wool on furniture, carpeting, shoe soles and clothing. We have a ritual we do before touching anything electrical, metal or even the cat. If you forget you'll be treated to some very pretty but sometimes painful electrical arcs and the cat will cringe next time you approach to pet her. After hearing of this horrible accident I would eliminate any static spark by first touching a bare metal part of the press, making it and me of the same electrical potential or, if you will, discharging the spark. Then while still touching the press use the other hand to place the filled primer tube in contact with the machines' metal primer tube cap. You could run a wire from under a press bolt to a cleaned and greased spot on a water pipe and clamp it there. This would ground your press but you would still need to equalize your potential by touching the press, as I mentioned before, because now that it is grounded you may get an even stronger electrical discharge when you touch the press.

First, Dillon makes good presses and has a very good design. The basic machine is what I am talking about as the attention to detail, which makes a product really great, is sorely lacking. They are at fabulous helping you and their customer service is second to none. The biggest issues on the 650 are exactly what GRIZ says: "On the XL650, the spent primer trampoline and the unused primer ski jump should have never made it into the final product... They are so easy to correct that it's baffling why Dillon lets these warts persist on such a great machine." I hate the snap back of the shell plate. Yes I know, I've called customer service many times; you cut the spring, tighten the center bolt but nothing seems to work for very long. It is really annoying, makes a mess and slows me down not to mention the inacccurate loads. The last advice I got was to hold my finger on the shell plate to provide friction so it doesn't snap back. WHAT !!! How many years has this press needed three grease zirks?? I see they finally have a replacement crank with zirks [two ?] - but what about the zirk needed for the top link arm pin? This is typical American engineering though; once you design and build it why would you want to make it better? or to work properly ? Was it for 20 years the large medallion covering the Cadillac trunk lock hung open ??? I love the design and how the 1050 works but I will NOT buy one as I don't need the grief. I have a few friends that have them and love them. I have far more friends that have nothing but trouble all the time. Some, in an effort to save their sanity, have sold them. They end up taking off this part to get it to be reliable, then that part, then another - reset this, adjust that, file this, bend that. I don't know what happened here but it is almost as though an engineer [not dissing engineers] built it, got it working and then, as far as the company was concerned, the project was finished and they let him go before it was perfected and all the bugs worked out. This may not be the case here but I have seen it happen many times. Come on Dillon !

Wow, I am amazed at the damage at 400 yds on armor plate. I would also think steel cased or steel containing bullets would be more of a safety issue ricocheting off of targets and larger rocks. Does anyone know ???????

The most common and I mean frequent reason I have seen for short stroking is insufficient lubrication of the bolt carrier. I learned it this way. I had two new rifles that worked well but all of a sudden started failure to feeds and death jams which puzzled me; why all of a sudden, what went wrong? The magazines had been working flawlessly and it was BOTH rifles. Some friends at the range said oil so I pulled out the bolt carriers and fingered on a light amount all around. I happened to have synthetic motor oil which I use for all my gun needs. Without question it is the best and least expensive "gun oil" you could use.This solved the problem instantly. Of course, there are many other reasons why an AR short strokes but I always start with this simple trick first. Be cautious with how much oil you use. It seems to work like beer. You always get out a lot more than you put in.

Thanks for clearing that up and the link. I wonder why Brian's Store doesn't sell Seeklander's book ???? I still love real books. It is easier to find things, easier to take notes, go back over parts I need and they stay where I put them. Don't get me wrong I love my computer but I hate that you can "sneeze" and something disappears -If you know what i mean. Sounds good, I am buying the book.

So now I am confused. Mike Seeklander earlier said: The drills come in the book: Your Competition Handgun Training Program. "Competition Handgun Training Drills" (as per the description), is just the drills without the program and other chapters. Then per Boyglock we have : Your Performance Logbook [spiral-bound] & Your Performance Logbook: Correct Design and Perfect Execution (Volume 1)? FOUR products?? I also want the answer to boyglock's question. Which best compliments "Your Competition... ?? "

I have what I think is an older Armalite comp on an Armalite gun although I don't see it in their current line up. The three angled ports are set level to the ground and work great. There is no reason to consider clocking it.

Does anyone have any history with Alliant's new AR-COMP powder now that it has been out a while? Maybe some good load data for .223 ?? Any metering issues ?

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PM Jamie Foote for info on the 223 hole distance visibility.....but whilst RO-ing at larue, I played with 1 on the 1000 yard range for about 3 days...and you could read a magazine cover at 1000 yards. My 30 round magazines came with no covers. So would this still work for me ????????????????????

It seems a lot of people are UNDER protected. I am amazed at some of the cheap, ineffective, bad fitting and /or improperly worn hearing protection people wear. I read the above, looked up the MSA products. They look nice and I love the gel ear pad idea but the protection rating I found was 18 to 22 dB, NOT very much. I shoot a lot inside with Pro Ears 33dB [which is a whole lot more protection] and I don't think that is near enough so I use plugs also.

I will not buy Wolf primers anymore [or anything else]. Many rejects that do not fire. They have a product Guarantee on their website but will not honor it - even talked to a supervisor. I have the product and a receipt. Performance Guarantee WOLF is the only ammunition company that provides a 100% Performance Guarantee. If you are not fully satisfied, WOLF will refund your money on the unused portion of the ammunition, including and freight charges.

Belt sand the flat outside sides of the Tec plastic bracket approx. 1/16" on both sides till you can easily get it on the M2 receiver with the Arredondo bracket. Sand a little at a time as you want a slightly snug fit. Mounting it by itself you will see the Arredondo bracket lines up with the receiver holes just fine but when you add the TEC bracket you can't get the pin in. Only use the Arredondo pin. So then there is a LOT of figuring out where the TEC bracket is holding the Arredondo out away from the receiver and removing that plastic material till the pin will easily fit. CLUE: In your hand insert the TEC bracket into the Arredondo and observe how tightly the two fit together, especially at the front and rear points you will still be able to see when both are on the receiver. When you mount both to the receiver and the pin hole is close to lined up, check those same areas and you will find that at some spots the parts are farther apart than before. This will give you an idea of where to start removing plastic till they fit tightly together and the pin will go in EASILY. It is not necessary to remove any metal from the Arredondo bracket. It's pretty much ok if you mangle the Tec bracket some as it will still work fine. You probably bought two pair of Tec loaders so you will have a spare bracket if you really mess it up. I suggest sending the wife/girl friend on some frivilous errand while you are working on this project. I figured it was a 20 minute job and four hours later I was done. Now that you know the easy way I expect you'll be finished much sooner, say three hours, fifty five minutes - just kidding. It should not be this hard but it is - I wish you the best of luck.

This is also an issue with the Docter and the Arredondo Benelli rib mount I have. The adapter plate is provided and fits both the scope and mount tightly but the provided screws for mounting the scope to the base are larger than the mounting holes in the Docter. I assume they are larger because they are the size for the J-Point?? Frankly I think it would be fine and I am going to to drill out the scope holes as even if they ended up being a little larger than the screws, or say slightly off center, the round head screws with the flat under their head would still hold the scope to the adapter plate and mount which are tight fitting to start with. To further explain, the screws only need to hold the scope down as small bumps and matching sockets actually do the locating for all three parts. My conclusion: Not ideal but seems to be a good, easy fix. It does annoy me though and I think when you buy something it should fit properly ---- shame on Arredondo for not addressing this in the first place or responding to you 9MX.

There are many others too. Nordic, Briley who both make mag tubes, GG&G and there is even a titanium one. Can you say Google? AND if you haven't spent enough go for the titanium mag tubes, in natural yellowish or two other finishes.