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size of bird shot to use


lvjeffro

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I have bought my slugs and 00Buck

1 case of 250 Winchester Ranger low recoil 1oz HP foster slugs (RA12RS15)

1 case of 250 Winchester Ranger low recoil 8 pellet 00 buck (RA12008)

But not sure which size bird shot to buy, thinking of

winchester #4

winchester #6

Winchester # 7 1/2

which size bird shot would be the better way to go,or an even better question; what size bird shot do you all use...Maybe I need 1 1/4oz of shot or a bigger dram equivalent???

this will be used in a 930SPX

:cheers:

Edited by lvjeffro
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I have bought my slugs and 00Buck

1 case of 250 Winchester Ranger low recoil 1oz HP foster slugs (RA12RS15)

1 case of 250 Winchester Ranger low recoil 8 pellet 00 buck (RA12008)

But not sure which size bird shot to buy, thinking of

winchester #4

winchester #6

Winchester # 7 1/2

which size bird shot would be the better way to go,or an even better question; what size bird shot do you all use...Maybe I need 1 1/4oz of shot or a bigger dram equivalent???

this will be used in a 930SPX

:cheers:

I have had stellar luck with high base 3.25 dr eq #5's lots of multiples!!!

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I reload #8's at 1150fps and #6's at 1225fps. At our club we tend to have some stages with lots of heavy poppers and other stages with lots of flyers and clay birds- so I can load for the stage. Our club also used to frown on any shot bigger than #6, due to it's penchant for turning lollipops into cereal bowls.

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VagasOPM,

Please don't use words I have to look up in the dictionary like penchant (incline)...how about a laymens term like just incline?

Of course if you are having problem with your poppers turning into bowls then turn the skin around.

Anyhow,

I guess I am an exception to the rule, in my limited/Tactical SG I shoot 8 shot most of the time too but with a light Dram (2 3/4) 1 /18 load from a WW AA hull. At the Johnson 3 gun and the SMM2G last year that is all I used in my Benelli. Some targets take more power but I tend to choke up a little if more power is needed.

Now from my Open Saiga I am using a 7/8 load of 7 1/2 loaded at 1300 FPS to make my comps (2) work and this will also make the target drop faster (instead of waiting to see if the hit really worked or not) and lets me move on faster. Now if I can just get over this broken leg to I can move as fast as my SG!

RLTW,

Scott

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I've just been experimenting with some heavy loads using Longshot powder. I have a 1 1/4oz #6 load at a little over 1425fps...the recoil is a bit heavy, and a 1 1/8oz load at about 1400fps that is a little softer. I plan on using 7.5's and 8's with the 1 1/8oz load and 6's with the 1 1/4oz load. I will be trying a 1 1/2oz load with 6's and 7.5's at around 1200fps to compare reactions/times on steel. I've got to use heavier loads to run my Benelli 100%. [1 1/8oz 3Dram equiv. loads only work about 95% in my SBE, the published velocity of this load is 1200fps.]

EG

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NO No NO

<_< What was I going to say? :unsure:

oh OH thats it . Shotguns throw a 'Pattern' = the shot spreads out. the bigger the choke =more open the choke the more the shot spreads out. a Cylinder choke at 18+ yards and #4 shot will have Holes in the 'Pattern' that a clay target could and Will fit into with out having a single hit on the clay or a 6" metal target may only get on pellet to hit it and not fall.

That is why the 7.5 shot is the most popular = more pellets to fill up the pattern.

The rite choke for the target and the distance and thin the rite shell for the job.

The link you have for the 7.5 shells is :goof: crazy I used to pay $38.00 for 250 shells last year. and the cost of shotgun lead has droped 50% in the past 6 months

Go to Walmart and pick up the cheep ones

Edited by AlamoShooter
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I run the cheap wally world federal. 7.5 oz, 1 1/8 th shell. I do keep a box of #6 with me. I normally will just change chokes instead of shot size. My M2 has run everything I have tried in it.

Mike

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NO No NO

<_< What was I going to say? :unsure:

oh OH thats it . Shotguns throw a 'Pattern' = the shot spreads out. the bigger the choke =more open the choke the more the shot spreads out. a Cylinder choke at 18+ yards and #4 shot will have Holes in the 'Pattern' that a clay target could and Will fit into with out having a single hit on the clay or a 6" metal target may only get on pellet to hit it and not fall.

That is why the 7.5 shot is the most popular = more pellets to fill up the pattern.

The rite choke for the target and the distance and thin the rite shell for the job.

The link you have for the 7.5 shells is :goof: crazy I used to pay $38.00 for 250 shells last year. and the cost of shotgun lead has droped 50% in the past 6 months

Go to Walmart and pick up the cheep ones

Alamo, that is the MSRP from winchester, If the 7 1/2 3 dram 1 1/8 is what i need then yes walmart has them for 23.00 per 100 which is about 60.00 for 250 shells but since I have been advised to use everything from #4 to #8 to just use 00buck and I have no idea what to buy...

So I guess I will just have to buy some test boxes and try them out and test the pattern until I find one that works well with my gun...Not like picking handgun ammo is it...HAHA...I was hoping to buy a flat or 2 so I can get the ammo a bit cheaper but will experiment first to get the best pattern possible before buying flats...

I don't think the 930SPX has a choke at all??? just open barrel I believe but I don't know much about these things yet...I am learning...

Thanks to everyone who replied, this shotgun business is not like other guns it seems, alot of information to obtain to make an informed decision...

I appreciate all the help, I should be ready to battle it up on the 3 gun scene soon...

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80% of what you shoot at the Wall mart stuff is fine 3 dram 7.5 $60 a flat

Having size 6 is good and 4 and the required Buck shot and slug.

many things effect the cost of the shell, like our hand gun reuse = the empty hull is worth .05$ each

The compo nets in the shell like the Shot it self and the wad. Most of the higher cost shell are made a bunch better. than the cheep. But 3 gun targets do not fly at 70mph when we are trying to hit them.

For a Sporting Clay event of any size I would not shoot the Walmart shells even if they were free. <_< well Free at the old price.

It would be real strange if any new gun did not have interchangeable chokes.

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I'm with busyhawk on shot size. In fact, even smaller. I've been shooting #9, 1 1/8, in eiter 2.75 or 3 dram loads in IC choke for everything needing birdshot. Used it in the last 2 Ironman matches. I was worried that #9 may not take down the steel, but I shouldn't have. Ironman has a reputation of tough steel to take down, but I've had no problems at all. And #9 really smokes the clays! If I can't get 9's, then 8's are it. Smaller numbers of heavier shot do not take down steel any better in my experience. It's still the same amount of lead on target.

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I've used 7.5 or 8 with both 3 dram & 2.75 dram loads, in 1oz. & 1 1/8 oz. loads for years on steel. IC choke mostly, cylinder for up close, & on rare occasions light Mod. for longer distance for steel that's set on the heavy side.

Most matches won't let you shoot 00 buck, but will let you sometimes shoot #4 buck if you feel the need.

Choke it for your need is my best advice & you'll be fine.

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The mossberg has a cylinder bore choke and no ability to interchange chokes. since I can't change chokes for different scenerios;

which shot would be best for my 930SPX 18.5" barrel w/ cylinder bore choke and only a cylinder bore choke...

I will probably have my barrel threaded to accept chokes but that won't be for a while

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I have found that the Winchester value packs of #8 (1 1/8 oz.) work for me and are reliable in my Benelli M1. I use Remington reduced recoil slugs for two reasons. Reason #1 is I can get seven of them in the magazine (will hold only six winchesters), reason #2 is that they are green and my shot loads are red. This helps me not to mix them up at the wrong time on those stages that require both. I also use a modified choke tube, I have not had any problems taking down steel with the #8s yet.

Now, if I could just find shells that load themselves faster :roflol:

Hurley

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  • 4 weeks later...
The mossberg has a cylinder bore choke and no ability to interchange chokes. since I can't change chokes for different scenerios;

After three matches where I could not take down some sort of steel due to either distance, partial cover or how heavy it was set, I sent out my Mossberg barrel to get threaded for chokes. It was probably the best money I have ever spent in this game. Have not had a problem since.

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The mossberg has a cylinder bore choke and no ability to interchange chokes. since I can't change chokes for different scenerios;

After three matches where I could not take down some sort of steel due to either distance, partial cover or how heavy it was set, I sent out my Mossberg barrel to get threaded for chokes. It was probably the best money I have ever spent in this game. Have not had a problem since.

What MFG of choke and what type did you end up going with and who did you send your gun out to to have the work done? Also how much did it cost and how long did it take???

I have thought about doing that but wanted to wait until some others did it and see how it worked out for them...

So, it is working well for ya huh???

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Remington 1100, 21" barrel , remchokes. Default choke tube is "IC".

7.5 for 95% of the targets. Cheap Federal for practice, Remington Nitro 27's for

matches. My 1100 LIKES Nitro 27's!

I keep a box or 2 of #6 and #4 field loads for hard set or distant steel, and if it

still doesn't want to go down I screw in a "extra full turkey choke".

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