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ok now lets talk HOLSTERS


Spray_N_Prey

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Ok I've got my 627 pro on it's way and am planning on buying a 625 JM (anybody have a nice used one ? ) so now I need a holster that will work for both USPSA and ICORE. I am a lefty and want a CR Speed, but the left handed model for revolver is $199.99 and money IS AN ISSUE. I don't really want a kydex type holster like a bladetech, but it might have to be what I get.

Nothing wrong with blade-tech, that's what I use for production, but kinda wanted an open type of holster.

let the games begin........................

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It was my understanding that the revolver CR doesn't work with a bottom feeder gun without changing some part that doesn't come in the spares kit, like the locking lever or something? It has been a while since I compared the two and I don't remember.

I use a CR in Limited and Open, but I bought a Blade Tech DOH for the 625, they all look the same more or less so I don't need to show my gun off and I just wanted a simple no BS holster. The DOH is just that, it works, is as fast as anything out there too IMO as long as the barrel isn't over about 5", if it is a 5" or 6" barrel you can slot the front so you don't have to lift the gun as high without compromising security of the holster.

I am not down on the CR holster, I use a couple of them, but they can be a bit of a security issue on hard turning draws, hard movement before the draw, bumping into a chair as you stand up, things like that. The BT DOH is vastly superior in those instances.

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If you go the Kydex route you are talking about two holsters, one for each gun. I am a lefty revo shooter myself and I use the CR speed for mine. You have to drill out the holster to use for a lefty but that is no big deal. The locking lever wil be on the inside of the holster but i prefer that, it won't get bumped by mistake.

I have a kydex holster that I got for my 8-shot .357 that I don't use anymore. Turned the .357 into my open gun with a shilen barrel and c-more, it doesn't fit. I also have a garcia extreme holster that I do not use any more. It looks like a ghost holster with no muzzle plug. Should work for any revolver. The only thing with this holster is I will not sell the hanger that I have with it. It is from the old garcia's that were aluminum, they don't make them anymore(i think) and they are way more adjustable than the ones that came with the cr speed.

Let me know.

Tom

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I use a Safariland. I modified it a bit so I could clamp it down real tight between stages, but back it off when I shoot. My only complaint about it is because of the muzzle forward, in front of the hip cant, it gets in the way bending down to get your clips.

safari.jpg

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I use a Safariland. I modified it a bit so I could clamp it down real tight between stages, but back it off when I shoot. My only complaint about it is because of the muzzle forward, in front of the hip cant, it gets in the way bending down to get your clips.

I'm using a Safariland with my 686 with 6" bbl, and just got a 625 with 4" bbl. Just how did you modify the holster to "clamp it down real tight"? And with it NOT clamped down real tight, can you do an El Prez start without the gun whipping out of the holster all by its lonesome?

I was looking at switching to the CR Speed Revolver holster, as it looked like it would work with both 4" and 6" bbl revolvers. And I was also considering the SpeedSec 5, which holds on to the trigger guard only. That seems a little sketchy if you hit the muzzle sharply enough. But if I could modify the Safariland to get to similar security [of holding either of the guns] and ease of draw, my Dremel is ready and waiting.

Comments?

Edited by professor
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It's nothing too major. Didn't remove any material.

I'm using a 5" gun in a 6" model holster, so I removed the top tensioning screw and installed it about an inch high on the holster than the original one. Mostly it just keeps me from catching the barrel lug on the old one when I re-holster.

side.jpg

Then I went to Lowes in the hardware section (in the drawers) and bought a threaded knob and a flat headed bolt. (I don't recall the correct name for the bolt type. It's just like a standard bolt only it has a thin, flat cupped head. I hammered the head flat, and inserted it where the old tension screw was. I used a short piece of clear tube on it inside the holster to protect the gun somewhat. Then put the knob on.

top.jpg

I used a little Gorilla glue on the head so it didn't spin when I tighten it.

At "LAMR" I just unscrew it till there' no pressure on the holster. When the stage is done I sock it down tight.

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They're S&W X frame grips (which is the same shape, size as round butt N frame) They're Hogue's, but with a covered back strap. The very top/rear has a small Sorbothane insert that is a little "squishier" than you need for .45ACP's, but otherwise I've no complaints.

Orange

Yellow

Edited by cas
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OK, This is my first post and I need input on this subject. I have a JM625 and am lefthanded. I purchased a Gilmore Holster for it on e-bay because of the cost of CR holsters. I had one a few years back with my 610 and it seemed to work out really well. Anyway, what happen to Gilmore holsters and why arn't they used more.

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OK, This is my first post and I need input on this subject. I have a JM625 and am lefthanded. I purchased a Gilmore Holster for it on e-bay because of the cost of CR holsters. I had one a few years back with my 610 and it seemed to work out really well. Anyway, what happen to Gilmore holsters and why arn't they used more.

Don't think there's anything wrong with your Gilmore, truth be told I forgot all about 'em !

IIRC they have a great locking system, little bulky for my tastes, saw a few of them back

in my bowling pin days.

The biggest reason you don't hear about them I would guess is that they're not made anymore.

Wear your Gilmore proudly, just might want to try a few quick-to-prone practice drills to find

a good location on your waist.

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  • 3 weeks later...
Ok I've got my 627 pro on it's way and am planning on buying a 625 JM (anybody have a nice used one ? ) so now I need a holster that will work for both USPSA and ICORE. I am a lefty and want a CR Speed, but the left handed model for revolver is $199.99 and money IS AN ISSUE. I don't really want a kydex type holster like a bladetech, but it might have to be what I get.

Nothing wrong with blade-tech, that's what I use for production, but kinda wanted an open type of holster.

let the games begin........................

Check out the revolver rig photos we collected on the following thread:

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...c=78722&hl=

It shows a bunch of different holster / moonclip holder combinations.

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+1 for the CR Speed.

I just got a 627 Pro (4") also.

Am I Production legal in a Blade Tech DOH? My CR Speed is good for L10 but I have to shoot minor beacause you have to be .40 cal or larger to shoot major? They clearly never thought about someone shooting a revolver when some of these rules were made.

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I have a CR Speed and like it because the draw is fast and all but I've had my 625 fly out of the holster before.

I was running the timer for another shooter and had to stop fast and my gun made a somersault. Now I know to hold the timer in the left and the gun with the right hand but I'm sure that's happened to others, too.

Other revo shooters around Houston seem to like the Safariland and the BladeTech mostly.

Personal preference, I suppose.

If I had to chose again, I'd get a BladeTech - it'd be more like drawing my Production gun.

My $0.02.

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After I accidentally knocked my loaded 625 out of my CR Speed holster and onto the ground (it was a crazy start deal where you started out kneeling and had to jump up and throw a grenade) and received my first and only match DQ, I now use a Blade-Tech DOH for USPSA. I used it all through 2008--I don't really think it's all that much slower and it's definitely more secure.

For steel shooting (which are always stationary starts and where you draw the gun multiple times on each stage), I may continue to use the CR Speed rig. I like the CR Speed, but like any of the true race holsters, it does get a little scary when you have to start from a seated position, etc.

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The holster was unlocked. I knew that even unlocked, the holster would hold the gun in place just fine during the process of jumping to my feet. What I didn't factor in was my arm bumping the gun when I was winding up to throw the grenade.

I also had one occasion at a MN Sectional several yeas ago when I accidentally left the holster locked and although the gun came out, I practically yanked my belt up under my armpits trying to break the gun loose from the holster. It was a situation where we shot two stages on the same bay, keeping the gun hot while moving from the finish of the first stage to the start position of the second stage. Of course I had locked the holster out of habit while walking along, and forgot to unlock it.

I also remember a stage at Area 7 a couple years ago when you had to move from the start position about 10 or 12 feet, then hit the lever on a chicken launcher (I shit you not) with the strong hand before drawing the gun. With the CR Speed, the quandary became whether to gingerly move with the holster unlocked, or take extra time to unlatch the holster after launching the chicken.

After the DQ, I finally just decided the miniscule speed advantage of the CR Speed holster is just not worth the risk and the hassle--for me, anyway. If I decide to shoot one of my 6.5" 25-2s one of these years, I may break it out again.

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  • 7 months later...
I use a CR in Limited and Open, but I bought a Blade Tech DOH for the 625, they all look the same more or less so I don't need to show my gun off and I just wanted a simple no BS holster. The DOH is just that, it works, is as fast as anything out there too IMO as long as the barrel isn't over about 5", if it is a 5" or 6" barrel you can slot the front so you don't have to lift the gun as high without compromising security of the holster.

I am thinking of doing what you describe above for a 5.5 inch barrel 625. How deep of a slot did you cut into your bladetch holster. Looking at the holster it looks like I can cut about 1.5 inches down and even with where the frame meets the barrell? Does that sound right?

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  • 3 weeks later...

I just got a JR Revolver holster . You can either unlock it and draw or you can have it locked and draw, the lock-unlock leaver is positioned so that when you draw your gun one of your fingers unlocks it. I think they make a left handed version and they are only $130 . I really like it alot its my new uspsa rig

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