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Is it worth it?


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Happy Thanksgiving All!!

I am getting ready to pull the trigger on a complete 650xl setup that will cost me over $1300.00.

What type of savings are you folks experienceing in reloading. I will be reloading 45ACP and 9mm.

I was in a gunshop yesterday where a man was claiming it was not worth reloading?

What do you think and what type of savings should i realize with a complete setup.

Thanks

Pete

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It depends on several things. Some of the major factors are:

1. how much you shoot

2. what calibers you load

3. the price and choice of components.

You'll save more reloading certain calibers. IE: .45 v. 9mm. If you load some 'uncommon' calibers, your investment can pay off very quickly.

Shooting lead or moly v. jacketed bullets adds up fairly quickly.

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I myself reload .45 Colt and it cost me approximately $6-$8 dollars per 50 rounds (250gr lead, Winchester Primers, Hodgdon Titegroup Powder), opposed to $31 for Magtech of the same caliber and style for example. I compete in Cowboy Action Shooting, IDPA, Steel Challenge, and USPSA using that one caliber. I started into shooting sports buying Magtech ammunition and keeping the brass for reloading and have over 2000 brass cases. Minus the cost of buying brass the cost of reloading decreased greatly.

I also reload .454 Casull, .460 S&W, and .223 Remington. In my experience it is worth reloading. I have 5 powders that I use regularly, with Titegroup and Trail Boss being for my .45 Colt. For .454 Casull and .460 S&W I use H110 powder. Then for my .223 Remington I use Benchmark and Winchester 748 powders.

I use a single stage press at the moment, so it takes me longer to reload than it will you with the progressive press. I enjoy the act or reloading and find it relaxing. I also have more confidence in my loads being what I need them to be, as I also chronograph what I load. Getting what you want, how you want it, and cheaper per the same number of rounds manufacturer ammunition is all good to me.

Edited by Blueridge
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I myself reload .45 Colt and it cost me approximately $6-$8 dollars per 50 rounds (250gr lead, Winchester Primers, Hodgdon Titegroup Powder), opposed to $31 for Magtech of the same caliber and style for example. I compete in Cowboy Action Shooting, IDPA, Steel Challenge, and USPSA using that one caliber. I started into shooting sports buying Magtech ammunition and keeping the brass for reloading and have over 2000 brass cases. Minus the cost of buying brass the cost of reloading decreased greatly.

I also reload .454 Casull, .460 S&W, and .223 Remington. In my experience it is worth reloading. I have 5 powders that I use regularly, with Titegroup and Trail Boss being for my .45 Colt. For .454 Casull and .460 S&W I use H110 powder. Then for my .223 Remington I use Benchmark and Winchester 748 powders.

I use a single stage press at the moment, so it takes me longer to reload than it will you with the progressive press. I enjoy the act or reloading and find it relaxing. I also have more confidence in my loads being what I need them to be, as I also chronograph what I load. Getting what you want, how you want it, and cheaper per the same number of rounds manufacturer ammunition is all good to me.

How many times over do you use the brass? I intend to shoot 500 to 800 rounds a week.

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I have been reloading just over a year with a DL650XL. I coughed up the approx $1300, and have not regretted it once. I only reload 9mm and 40S&W.

I had the good fortune to have several experience USPSA shooters that are long time reloaders advise me. Over that time, I found the components that work for me without requiring a huge variety of inventory. I found that I like Zero bullets when I can get them, but can always get Montana Gold and I like them. I will use Winchester, Remington or CCI primers, whatever is cheap and available. I use fired brass - I started by picking up what I found at the range (especially the indoor range), and have also bought in quantity from folks here on this forum. I pick up my fired practice brass, but have the luxury of leaving the brass at matches if it is too hot, cold or wet to mess with it.

I found one powder that works for me with both calibers and in heavy or light bullets (200, 180, & 165 in 40SW, and 147, 125 & 115 in 9mm) - VV N340. It may not be the optimum to some for the calibers and bullets mentioned, but it works for me. It costs a few dollars more than some others, but on a per round basis, it is not much more.

I load primarily for USPSA and IDPA shooting, but also load the self defense loads I keep, though with different bullets.

Having said that, I agree with the others, you can shoot cheaper or more. If you shoot alot, you will amortize the cost of your reloading setup over 24 months or less. There is only a little difference between the reloading costs for each caliber. In other words, 40S&W reloads cost about the same as 9mm reloads.

My last comments - after that one year I have completely changed only my reloading dies. I wish I had bought these at the beginning. I now have a Lee Factory Crimp Die, a Redding Competition Seating die, and a Lee "U" Sizing die. Only slight increase in price, but sure takes care of the "Glock Bulges".

Just my opinions after a year of reloading.

Mark K.

Edited by Mark K
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I got about 12 reloadings with my last batch of 38sc before they started splitting

we started with 3000 new starline ....after 1 year we have lost 2000 and the remaining brass was pretty cooked :rolleyes:

Just got new brass for this year :cheers:

Reloading is the ONLY way to go :)

Jim

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I have been reloading just over a year with a DL650XL. I coughed up the approx $1300, and have not regretted it once. I only reload 9mm and 40S&W.

I had the good fortune to have several experience USPSA shooters that are long time reloaders advise me. Over that time, I found the components that work for me without requiring a huge variety of inventory. I found that I like Zero bullets when I can get them, but can always get Montana Gold and I like them. I will use Winchester, Remington or CCI primers, whatever is cheap and available. I use fired brass - I started by picking up what I found at the range (especially the indoor range), and have also bought in quantity from folks here on this forum. I pick up my fired practice brass, but have the luxury of leaving the brass at matches if it is too hot, cold or wet to mess with it.

I found one powder that works for me with both calibers and in heavy or light bullets (200, 180, & 165 in 40SW, and 147, 125 & 115 in 9mm) - VV N340. It may not be the optimum to some for the calibers and bullets mentioned, but it works for me. It costs a few dollars more than some others, but on a per round basis, it is not much more.

I load primarily for USPSA and IDPA shooting, but also load the self defense loads I keep, though with different bullets.

Having said that, I agree with the others, you can shoot cheaper or more. If you shoot alot, you will amortize the cost of your reloading setup over 24 months or less. There is only a little difference between the reloading costs for each caliber. In other words, 40S&W reloads cost about the same as 9mm reloads.

My last comments - after that one year I have completely changed only my reloading dies. I wish I had bought these at the beginning. I now have a Lee Factory Crimp Die, a Redding Competition Seating die, and a Lee "U" Sizing die. Only slight increase in price, but sure takes care of the "Glock Bulges".

Just my opinions after a year of reloading.

Mark K.

Thanks for the detailed info Mark. I appreciate it.

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The man's claim of not being cheaper to reload used to be true for 9mm, but not anymore. When I started shooting 9mm in my AR carbine, about 4 years ago, it didn't make much financial sense. I could buy 9mm reloads or blazers for about the same price as reloading. Now, however, with the prices on the rise, it does make financial sense.

I just ran the numbers:

CCI Blazer from buyammo.com 22cents per round

Wolf polymer from buyammo.com 17cents per round

MiWall reloads from buyammo.com 22cents per round

If you buy locally, at Walmart or Sportsmans Warehouse, the price is 2x.

My reloads, made the way I want them with Zero bullets, Winchester primers, and Starline brass (reused 5x), are 14-17 cents per round. If you buy used brass, it is even cheaper.

Now, that's about the same price as the wolf, but far superior, since I can control the load, OAL, crimp, and overall quality. In fact, I started reloading 9mm, not because of the price, but because I could make them exactly how I wanted them. I have a supressor on my AR, and wanted heavy bullets that were subsonic. Easy, if you reload, hard if you buy off the shelf.

CCI Blazer in 45ACP are 32 cents.

If you reload, I think they are around 17cents with used brass and Zero bullets.

Plus, you don't have to count the cost of the equipment against you, since Dillon gear holds it value pretty well. You could figure about 4% depreciation per year, but otherwise it is an asset with a value.

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The only factory ammo I buy anymore is Shotgun shells, .22 rimfire, and factory jhp loads for defense.

Everything else is loaded to MY specification and accuracy requirements. I guarantee my ammo will shoot more accurately and cleaner than all off the shelf ammo I can get in these parts. I also have a QC setup so my ammo works everytime when I spend $$$$$ to travel and shoot major matches.

That is peace of mind......... :cheers:

I look at my 1050s and all my accumulated reloading equipment as investments, and can turn them in a heartbeat and get as much as I paid for them or more if I need to. Not many hobbies you can say that about. :lol:

Go for it!

DougC

Edited by DougCarden
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I myself reload .45 Colt and it cost me approximately $6-$8 dollars per 50 rounds (250gr lead, Winchester Primers, Hodgdon Titegroup Powder), opposed to $31 for Magtech of the same caliber and style for example. I compete in Cowboy Action Shooting, IDPA, Steel Challenge, and USPSA using that one caliber. I started into shooting sports buying Magtech ammunition and keeping the brass for reloading and have over 2000 brass cases. Minus the cost of buying brass the cost of reloading decreased greatly.

I also reload .454 Casull, .460 S&W, and .223 Remington. In my experience it is worth reloading. I have 5 powders that I use regularly, with Titegroup and Trail Boss being for my .45 Colt. For .454 Casull and .460 S&W I use H110 powder. Then for my .223 Remington I use Benchmark and Winchester 748 powders.

I use a single stage press at the moment, so it takes me longer to reload than it will you with the progressive press. I enjoy the act or reloading and find it relaxing. I also have more confidence in my loads being what I need them to be, as I also chronograph what I load. Getting what you want, how you want it, and cheaper per the same number of rounds manufacturer ammunition is all good to me.

How many times over do you use the brass? I intend to shoot 500 to 800 rounds a week.

Well I have reloaded some of the .45 Colt brass about 5 times (just started reloading about 1 1/2 ago) and have not seen any case splitting yet. I expect to get about 10 reloadings in at least. I have been fortunate to be allowed to recover my brass at even some "lost brass" matches. Since I shoot .45 Colt (and no one else I have met does at IDPA or USPSA) RO's and SO's have let me recover it. :D

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With the economy being what it is and me not working every morning, I go practice when I'm not working and pick up far more casings than I arrived with. I will come with 250-400 and leave with 1000. In that respect, practice pays for itself. :cheers:

So I would say, yes it is worth it. I shoot more, I tailor my loads, and I get free brass as often as I can. :ph34r:

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Another 'yes' vote. Loaded 9mm all this year; soon to work up a .40 competition load.

I cranked out ~11K rounds in 6 months on my 550B (only about 250 are left at the end of the competition season). Both the reloader and the ammo produced worked without a hiccup. There is no way that I could have purchased 11 cases of ammo this season.

The other advantange is that this is my consistent, reliable competition load. I know how it handles. It makes PF ~132-134 regardless of weather. Occasionally I'll shoot off some factory ammo in practice and the difference in flash/bang/recoil bounce is quite noticeable. The flash is especially noticeable indoors or on overcast days outside.

When you can 'tune' the combination of gun, ammo performance and your own kinesthetics, everything is working FOR you, rather than you having to accommodate to something that may be creating an unnecessary 'challenge' for you.

Good luck!

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I load 9mm's for about 10 dollars a hundred 45 ACP a bit more. Depends on the pre-cast bullet prices. Right now 9's are 30 bucks/500 45's are 50 bucks. I can shoot more than if buying factory don't have to worry much about supply and most important loads are tailored to my guns.

I don't have over a thousand dollars in my reloading gear though. Use a Lyman turret press. It's the way to go for switching calibers easily and runs of 200 or so max at one time. Mine is always set up for 9mm & 45 ACP. It's old and paid for years ago but they are often seen at gun shows for less than 50 bucks. In fact it may be possible to get together what you need for 100 bucks. 200 no doubt and load two calibers too. Really retro I keep a True Line JR set up for 38 special all the time. Ever see another for cheap will buy and leave it set for 45 LC too. Turrets old is generaly better than new. Heavy castings and good workmanship.

Nothing against the Dillons for one caliber and long runs they work great, just figure how much you are going to shoot and what caliber before committing. I may buy a 550 for 9 MM if I stick with the caliber long enough. I will say sorting, cleaning & sizing brass, switching out dies etc is the time consuming part of reloading. Seperate the clean and size part keeping a supply of ready to prime cases on hand and it's not a bad job on old fashion presses.

Boats

Edited by Boats
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WARNING!! WARNING!!

There is one down side to reloading - you very quickly morf into Gollum (from Lord of the Rings), becoming attracted all the bright shiny things on the ground - "Oh, Shiny. My Precious. Give to me the shiny."

And you learn to curse the man/woman that shoots aluminum cased Blazer ammo, the steel cased Wolf ammo, and the .22LR shooters. Those shooter trick you into bending only to find it is worthless to you.

You also get very good at what brass is what caliber from the standing position, so as not to bend over and pick up what you think is a 9mm Luger, only to find that it is .380 auto.

I am one that once bent over and picking up my calibers, also picks up any brass within reach. Once sorted the .45s, .38 Super, 10mm, etc go as gifts to friends that shoot those calibers and they reply in kind with 9mm or 40SW back to me.

Have fun with it.

Mark K.

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... I will start another question regarding Bullets after i place my order.

Search first, there are already a 'bizillion' threads on lead vs. moly vs. plated vs. jacketed vs. various brand names.

Good luck. Welcome to the addiction. Don't think for a minute that you'll SAVE any $$, but you will shoot much, much, more. Enjoy!

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