tpe187 Posted June 21, 2008 Share Posted June 21, 2008 I recently purchased a Springfield Armoy Professional to replace a Kimber I had. The kimber had a nice 3 1/4# trigger from the factory. The SA Professional has a 4.5# trigger and I'm wondering if a spring change can get me down to 3.5# pull. I don't want to send it back to the SA custom shop if I can avoid it, just due to down time and shipping costs. If thats what it takes though, I will do it. Anyone have any thoughts on the matter? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BSeevers Posted June 21, 2008 Share Posted June 21, 2008 Find a qualified pistolsmith and have him do a trigger job. Or you could monkey around with it yourself and end up usually regretting it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z40acp Posted June 21, 2008 Share Posted June 21, 2008 Springfields have heavy main springs in them. My son changed his main spring housing and put a main spring from an Ed Brown pin and spring kit in his. It is now about 3 lbs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aristotle Posted June 21, 2008 Share Posted June 21, 2008 You spent over 2K in a 1911, it deserves a properly fitted trigger job, especially if you don't know what you are doing. You won't regret getting it professionally fitted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HSMITH Posted June 21, 2008 Share Posted June 21, 2008 With proper geometry in the hammer and sear a 2 pound change on the mainspring will have a 4 ounce or less change on the trigger pull weight. Changing the mainspring isn't going to get it. Provided the hammer and sear geometry is right you can adjust the sear spring and take the weight out, if it isn't right you could have a gun somewhere between full auto fun and downright dangerous. Trigger work on 1911's is pro work only IMO, I would encourage you to see professional help whether that be a local 1911 smith or sending it back. A gunsmith can't help you, you need a 1911 smith if you look for help locally. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoMiE Posted June 21, 2008 Share Posted June 21, 2008 So say the hammer and sear geometry is correct, is it safe to reduce the mainspring otherwise? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HSMITH Posted June 21, 2008 Share Posted June 21, 2008 Yes, a 15 is about as low as you can go with complete reliability, and that is only if everything else is perfect. A 17# is about as light as you need to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Gundry Posted June 21, 2008 Share Posted June 21, 2008 A pro will get you the best results, but IMHO, most out of the box production 1911's need some slight tweaking - i.e. 17 or 19lb mainspring, and properly tensioned sear/disco spring leafs. The mainspring is fairly easy to do, but to tension the sear spring, you need a decent trigger pull guage (lyman digital works well for me). You don't need to ship it back to Springfield - just find a competent 'smith in your area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bwit Posted June 21, 2008 Share Posted June 21, 2008 (edited) In the several I have, I've only gone a 19# or 17# in the hammer then the firing pin strikes very lightly which may affect your reliability. So this helps a little but get a good book and be careful or better yet get some GOOD help from someone who REALLY knows what they are doing. This isn't like working on your car. A lot more is involved, it's precise and you or someone else can get hurt [or worse] even if it seems to be fine but it isn't done properly. It'll get you when you least expect it. And how would one know if the hammer and sear geometry is correct in the first place?? Some of the people who do work on guns are really competent and some are no better than some of the idiots working on your car - - scary thought, huh! Edited June 21, 2008 by bwit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wide45 Posted June 21, 2008 Share Posted June 21, 2008 The easy way is to get it to a good pistolsmith. There are many other ways. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tpe187 Posted June 21, 2008 Author Share Posted June 21, 2008 Ok, Seems the consensus is to leave it to a pro. I'll talk to SA's custom shop on Monday and see what they charge to reduce the weight. It probably won't be that bad since it already has the tool steel sear, which is something they require for weights below 4lb. I just moved to this area recently and haven't networked with any local smiths, plus since SA built the gun and warranties it, I would rather have them to the work in the event there are any future issues. Thanks for the advice. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aircooled6racer Posted June 21, 2008 Share Posted June 21, 2008 Hello: Try a 17lb mainspring first. It should drop it down a little bit. Then adjust the sear spring the rest of the way to get your 3.5lb pull. Do all the tests to make sure it does not go auto or have hammer follow. You may like a 4.5lb trigger once you get used to it. Thanks, Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tpe187 Posted June 22, 2008 Author Share Posted June 22, 2008 Well, just as a little test I took the mainspring out of my Benny Hill limited gun, which has a 2lb trigger pull. I have no idea what the weight of the main spring is, but just using that droped me down to a tad below 4lbs. I'm going to shoot that and see how it feels, as well as test for reliabitiliy. When I added the sear spring from my limited gun, the pull went to 8oz's, so that obviously didn't work. I'm still going to see what the SA custom shop has to say. Again, thanks for the advice. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam B Posted June 22, 2008 Share Posted June 22, 2008 Find a qualified pistolsmith and have him do a trigger job. Or you could monkey around with it yourself and end up usually regretting it. man is that the truth, the other option is to buy this kit, it has worked great for me http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/Pro...R%20PULL%20KITS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darrell Posted June 24, 2008 Share Posted June 24, 2008 You don't need a new spring, if somene has a trigger pull guage, do the following, this info is also on Brownells website. I have a jig and usually do the sear first, but you don't have to. Try this and it should get 3-3.5 lbs. Disassemble the frame, take out the sear and hammer, leave the trigger, install the disconnector, sear spring, and mainspring housing. Measure the pull weight of the trigger while pressing down on the disconnector, Bend the middle finger till you get a reading of 16 ounces. Next install the sear with the disconnector and measure trigger pull again make sure you are activating the sear and not going all the way back. Bend the left finger till you get 32 ounces or 2lbs whaterver your scale reads. Now assemble the gun, put a snap cap in it and check the trigger pull. Drop the slide stop and be sure you don't get hammer follow. Take to range and test fire. I usually don't go lighter than 19 lbs on the mainspring if I ever do replace them. Hope this helps. I did an Armscor the other day and actually got a pull of 1.5 lbs had to increase tension to set it at 3 lbs. Most of the other guns I do usually end up between 3-3.5 lbs with the above mentioned info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cave_canem Posted June 26, 2008 Share Posted June 26, 2008 One thing that I found on both my S&W 1911's was that the trigger was bone dry from the factory... I disassembled the guns, used Shooters Choice Hi-Tec grease on the trigger and put it back together. It did not change the trigger pull, but it slicked up the trigger so much that I decided not to have trigger jobs done on either gun. You probably already checked/did this, but if not make sure you have some grease/oil on the trigger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SharonAnne9x23 Posted June 26, 2008 Share Posted June 26, 2008 If you do not have the tools to do a proper trigger job then it will be MUCH cheaper to send it to a competent gunsmith. If you want to keep it then I support using the Brownells' kit already mentioned. Tweaking the mainspring without a GOOD trigger pull gauge is asking for trouble. Doing ANYTHING with the sear or hammer hooks without the proper tools and TRAINING is asking for BIG trouble.Dollar WISE, send it to a gunsmith. Having had work done by George, I suggest EGW. Blessed Be SharonAnne Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedy169 Posted June 26, 2008 Share Posted June 26, 2008 tpe187, You may check out millcreek rifel club in Desoto, KS. They have a Wensday night bowling pin shoot that has a couple of good 1911 pistol smiths. I personaly like Randy B. He has worked on several of my guns. Here is a link to thier web site. LINK It is a real good group of guys out there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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