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Everything posted by tpe187

  1. Quick answer: Cut one coil off the spring that sits under the ball bearing under the shellplate. This is what many do and it works well enough. Another option is the shellplate bearing kit. Available on Ebay for a reasonable price. It is what I use on my 650. http://cgi.ebay.com/Shellplate-bearing-kit-Dillon-XL-650-/300359068964?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45eecbad24 Tom
  2. Well, tried some of the loads today. Weapon - Beretta M9 Chrono Dist, 15ft Temp 80 degrees Cases - Mixed Powder - Clays 3.7gr Primer - WSP Bullet - MG 124gr fmj OAL - 1.14 10 shots - Hi 1034, Lo 1000, Avg 1021, SD 9.9 ES 34, MAD 7.4 Power Factor - 126.6 Notes - Soft shooting, pressure signs from primer, would not lock the slide back on the last shot. Factory recoil spring @ about 2K rounds Cases - Mixed Powder - N320 4.3gr Primer - Rem 5 1/2 Bullet - MG 124gr fmj OAL - 1.14 10 shots - Hi 1083, Lo 1053, Avg 1064, SD 10 ES 29.9, MAD 7.9 Power Factor - 131.9 I shot 100 rds of the Clays load. Too much signs of pressure to try and bump it up anymore. It appears I have about 2lbs of N320 left. I think I'll just load as many as I can from that and try to get some more. Thanks for everyones help.
  3. Hello All, Well, I'm out of N320 and I have to make about 4K rounds for an upcoming tactical class. These will be primarily shot through a Beretta M9, but what I don't use will be run through a G19 or CZ SP01. Which of the three powders should I go with? I have Bullseye, Blue Dot, and Clays. I also have Unique, but I think only a couple pounds. What is a good OAL for the MG 124 FMJ's? I just got these as well. Had been using Zero 125 JHP's. Thanks Tom
  4. Interesting, I was thinking of doing the same thing. Who was the retailer, if you don't mind? Thanks
  5. I've heard good things about the montana gold bullets and thought the price looked good in the case lot, but I definately don't want to mess with Moly coated bullets. The picture on the website shows a black bullet, but i don't know if this is some propriety coating or just a different picture. Looking to order on Monday so anyone who has some, please let me know. Thanks Tom
  6. Well, just as a little test I took the mainspring out of my Benny Hill limited gun, which has a 2lb trigger pull. I have no idea what the weight of the main spring is, but just using that droped me down to a tad below 4lbs. I'm going to shoot that and see how it feels, as well as test for reliabitiliy. When I added the sear spring from my limited gun, the pull went to 8oz's, so that obviously didn't work. I'm still going to see what the SA custom shop has to say. Again, thanks for the advice. Tom
  7. oops, just missed your post. HK's can take some time to break in. My friend and I both bought P2000's when they first came out. We also split a case of some non toxic ammo. His ran fine with it, mine acted like yours. What I had to do was run about 500 full power rounds through it to break it in. Worked fine after that.
  8. I would say you are probably fine with what you have. Make sure to try some weak hand, with a loose grip with one round in the mag, if it functions fine and locks the slide back, then your good to go. Try this with the gun in the normal way you shoot, ie if you shoot 200rds at the range and then shoot a match without cleaning, do the same with the test. As mentioned, a recoil spring change can fix this if you want more postive ejection, but on 9mm your power factor is pretty close to stock ammo and I would think it should throw them a little further. What pistol are you shooting? How many rounds do you have through it? Might just need a little more break in. Well, those are some thoughts anyway.
  9. Ok, Seems the consensus is to leave it to a pro. I'll talk to SA's custom shop on Monday and see what they charge to reduce the weight. It probably won't be that bad since it already has the tool steel sear, which is something they require for weights below 4lb. I just moved to this area recently and haven't networked with any local smiths, plus since SA built the gun and warranties it, I would rather have them to the work in the event there are any future issues. Thanks for the advice. Tom
  10. I recently purchased a Springfield Armoy Professional to replace a Kimber I had. The kimber had a nice 3 1/4# trigger from the factory. The SA Professional has a 4.5# trigger and I'm wondering if a spring change can get me down to 3.5# pull. I don't want to send it back to the SA custom shop if I can avoid it, just due to down time and shipping costs. If thats what it takes though, I will do it. Anyone have any thoughts on the matter? Thanks
  11. Well, I guess the majority are shooting 230gr over clays so there really isn't any reason to change. I like the 230gr Zero but they are getting harder and harder to get. Might just have to order some Montana Gold and get a couple thousand 55gr fmj in .223 as well. Thanks for all the input Tom
  12. Hello All, I've been shooting 230gr fmj and 3.8gr of Clays forever, but mostly for recreational, non competive shooting. I've been shooting limited for a while but I'm thinking of going to single stack with my Kimber Gold Combat. Since I've got to order some more bullets soon I thought I would see what weight most are using. I'm not really interested in shooting lead, so I want to stick to fmj or coated. Too many problems with leading, lube in dies and smoke for the cost savings to mean enough for me to go back to lead. Also had issues with LSWC with feeding. Currently running a 16lb spring, but might go to 14lb if I move to 185 or 200gr. Please let me know make and weight you are shooting. Thanks for your thoughts. Tom
  13. I don't recall seeing half moon shapes of copper. Its been awhile since I broke out the SVI in .38super. I've been shooting .40 in limited. I really liked the soft feel of Viht 3N38, but I couldn't justify the price and it was not readily available. I found I had to place an order with powdervalley.com, just to make some rounds. Much easier to go to the corner store and pick up lb of 7625. Definately worth trying if you like to experiment a little.
  14. How much did you open up the ports? What other mods have you done? Thanks for the help
  15. Trapr, Did he have to open up the ports at all? I've heard of port sizes needing to be opened up pretty large. Something like .140. Is there a minimum shell he runs, like 1 1/8 at 1200 or up? Thanks Tom
  16. The extrema 2 is an interesting option. I have a regular 391 and it has never failed me on the skeet field. I was looking for something with that kind of reliability. Now that SRM makes mag extensions, it seems like it might be a viable alternative. It would still require some work. I notice that the shortest barrel you can get is 24" and comes in real tree HD. I wish you could get it in regular black. Anyone tried that KO stock system. Seems like an expensive upgrade, but might be worth it. I think I'm still leaning toward the Benelli M2. Oh, the agony of these decisions. Benny, I wasn't questioning the dollar value of your work, just the necessity. There is no question you know about Benelli's and how to make them run. That knowledge is worth the money. I was really just talking about getting away with a few upgrades on your own. Oh well, I guess I'll sleep on it. Thanks
  17. Hello All, Like many before me, I've had it with my Rem 1100CM. When its working, its nice and soft and does everything I could want. However, all too frequently there is something that isn't quite right. Not to mention, the maintenance. So, I'm taking the advice of a lot of people and going with a Benelli M2 Field with 21" barrel. My question is this: Its going to cost me about $1050 for the gun new. I would have to add an extended mag, big safey, light weight bolt handle,an extended bolt closer and 8 shot shell side saddle. That adds $130. If I just send it to Benny it is going to cost me $700. I know he is one of the best at modifying a Benelli, but if they are so great, do they really need $570 in tuning? Are the extra mods like polishing everthing up, enlarging the loading port and cutting back the carrier really worth the extra $570? Has anyone shot their Benelli Stock long enough to offer a comparison between basically stock and having it tuned by Beven or Benny. How light a load can you relieably shoot in the modified guns? I know its a bunch of questions, I'm just trying to see which route I go with. Buy the Benneli and mod it myself, then send it off or just get the full package to start with. Thanks for any advice. Tom
  18. I used to do all the fancy break in procedures, but after a while, its just plain boring and I don't have the patience for it. Also depends on the weapon and intended use. For an AR that is going to see gaming or maybe some home defense, its not worth it. Just shoot it and clean it when you are done. I don't use a brush. If I'm at the range and doing some CQB, I try to run a couple wet patches down the bore every couple hundred rounds. About every 500rds, use some JB bore paste. A good copper remover goes a long way as well. Just don't mix cleaners or you might get etching of the barrel. If its a varmint set up, it might make a difference, but I don't think so. A good quality barrel has all the work done to make it shoot well. I have multiple Krieger barreled rifles and they are more accurate than I ever will be, and I didn't do anything special to break them in. If it was a precision bolt gun, I might do the break in, but it would probably have a good barrel on it already and not need much. In the end, just shoot the rifle and have fun.
  19. A pictures worth a thousand words! Thanks Flex. Hadn't thought of making 6ft walls. We can definatly do that. Yes, lots of old paint around here, but not like the old days when you had to paint rocks We do have a good bit of old officer funiture that we can get hold of. Should make for some interesting scenarios. Now all we have to do is get range control to allow for more than 15 degrees for the field of fire! We just have to be creative to get around some of those. Thanks again for the help.
  20. another very good idea. My problem is that we have the plywood and 2x4's and don't have any of the construction fence. We also don't have any funds, other than our own and the wood if free. Well, I guess taxpayers pay for it, so its not free, but on hand anyway. Thanks for the idea!
  21. Thanks for the suggestions. I'm afraid all I have right now is the plywood and 2x4's, but I'll see what I can come up with. Thanks for the links also.
  22. Hi Guys, We are trying to getting started with matches here on post. We have purchased a decent amount of steel targets and target holders, now we have to build the stages. We have access to a fairly unlimited number of plywood and 2x4's. I'm interested in some general construction guidelines. For example, I can make a great wall out of 2x4 and plywood that would be a great 8man lift but I"m looking for flexability in stages as well as easy transportation. They don't have to go far, only a 100 meters or so for storage. Is there a particular way to set up 4x8 walls that are modular or interlocking? Should every wall have a port and then cover with a piece of plywood if not needed? I'm really interested in the one barricade used by Matt Burkett in the AR video where it had an open area about 10" high all along the bottom and then could use either kneeling or standing, left side or right. A couple of those would be good for AR and Shotgun. Thanks for any idea's or links to designs Tom
  23. I used the exact same recipe except for loading 4.5gr of Titegroup, at 55 degrees on Sunday and got a PF of 167.6 out of a glock 22. All guns are different, so make sure you chono your load before going to a match and finding out the hard way. Also remember to chrono at roughly the same time of day, as close to the same light conditions and test at the temperature ranges you might shoot them at. This is why most people aim for a 170pf for a little fudge factor. For limited guns, loaded long, I found the the magazine was the limiting factor in OAL. The rounds would feed at 1.20 but I would get stacking in the mag toward the bottom and could only fit 18rds rather than 19 with an OAL of 1.185 Just something to look into.
  24. Hodgdon and Speer manuals both list Titegroup loads for 180gr bullets in their manuals. On the bottle of Titegroup, the recommended load for 40 S&W is 4.7grs with a Hornady 180gr XTP, WSP primer, OAL of 1.125 Both manuals list 4.7 as the max load, so my 4.5grs seems to be ok. On Jeff Maass site under 40 loads he states that loads for 1911 pattern guns will often benifit in feeding by using longer OAL's allowed by those type guns. Pressure isn't an issue, I'm getting "Major" velocity, feeding doesn't seem to be an issue. I have yet to test accuracy, so that might be a deciding factor. I'm just trying to avoid having to load for different guns and possibly mixing up the rounds. Does anyone out there just shoot standard OAL's in their 1911 type guns? Did you notice FTF's with shorter OAL's? Thanks for your thoughts
  25. I just called Dillon, to see if they had heard any of the problems that people were having and to see what they recommended for my 650. The person I talked to said they had heard a lot more complaints over the last year with winchester primers. He asked if I was shooting any revolvers with light trigger pulls and I told him no. He then said I might want to give Remington primers a try, since they had been the most dimensionally consistent primers they had measured recently. Thats good enough for me. I was leaning toward the Remingtons anyway.
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