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Joe D

So You Want a Sub 2# Glock Trigger

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I have decided it is time to reveal most of the secrets. I have given several of you various hints on how to do this. The first step is to knock out the little pin that retains the plastic finger pad. You will need to support the other side or you will break out the whole side of the pad. I tap the pin a little to mark the other size then weaken that point a little with a grinder. Drive the pin all the way out. Now the pad is free of the bar.

Note where the hole is in the bar. You will need to move this hole up the "leg" about .120". You may have to play with this dimension a little as Glock uses more than one supplier of trigger bars. I have found it to be pretty close though.

The next thing to do is relocate the pivot hole in the pad. This is the tricky part. Where you locate this hole will determine where the trigger bar releases the striker. I have three different trigger pad "standards". These are pads that I use to transfer the hole location from one pad to another. Each causes a different striker release point. Remember those statements where I said one can cause the trigger bar to release the striker at different points without the use of an overtravel stop.

The next step is to bend the trigger return spring tab forward. This does two things. It will limit the pretravel and at the same time put more tension on the spring. Don't bend it too far forward or you will disable the striker safety plunger. You want the little tab on the top of the trigger bar to just be touching the plunger. Be sure to heat the tab or it will break when you try to bend it. I clamp the bar in a vise and use a screwdriver to bend the tab

Next step is to trim back the little safety lever on the plastic trigger pad. It has a little "L" shaped nub on the end. You will need to remove material back to where the nub ends or just before.

I like the LWD connector best of all. If you want a really short crisp 3# trigger use an 8# connector. Use a lwt striker spring and you will have a sub 2# trigger. I you experiment a little you can get a 1# trigger.

Attached is a picture of a relocated trigger pad. Let's get those grinders and drills cranked up.

Why am I doing this? First of all I don't need the money. Secondly there are those that IMO overcharge for their services.

BTW do these modifications at your own risk. Always make certain you maintain sufficient striker/trigger bar engagement.

post-1058-1187744156.jpg

Edited by Joe D

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Forgot to mention - use a little black epoxy to fill the old pin location hole.

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Does this mod then become illegal for Production? TIA

DaG

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Joe: We will have to call this the JoeD mod. You are the Godfather of Glocks! I think Glock will get an increase of sales from your post. I am grateful for your sharing of this info. Thanks, Eric

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Does this mod then become illegal for Production? TIA

DaG

Yup. As trivial as it may be, the NROI has deemed this an external modification.

Now, will it be legal January 1st, 2008? Hmmm......

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Now, will it be legal January 1st, 2008? Hmmm......

according to the draft rules posted in the latest BOD minutes...NO!

edited to add...thanks for posting Joe D.

Edited by driver8M3

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It is not legal for Production. OTOH even that is really debatable. Done properly the old hole location is not visible. One can get a 2# Glock trigger without relocating the trigger pad. Actually a little under 2# if you do it right. A combination of the LWD connector and a little reshaping of the trigger bar nose will get you under 2#.

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Cool stuff Joe. Are you doing this mod in conjunction with a lightened striker and a trimmed OEM striker spring?

Jim

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Joe,

Thanks for the info, but please do not advocate cheating. If it's not in the rules, it's cheating to do it.

Rich

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I have not advocated cheating. Where did you come up with that? I stated it was not legal for Production.

I like the Lightning Strike lwt steel striker. I don't care for the titanium model. I use a 4# Wolf striker spring. I have tried using a shortened stock spring, but the results were not as good. If you use the Wolf spring be sure to use a lwt striker. The stock striker and Wolf spring will pop Federal primers. You will have light strikes on occasion with Winchester and CCI.

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It is not legal for Production. OTOH even that is really debatable. Done properly the old hole location is not visible. One can get a 2# Glock trigger without relocating the trigger pad. Actually a little under 2# if you do it right. A combination of the LWD connector and a little reshaping of the trigger bar nose will get you under 2#.

We have shooters that go on these boards and don't know the rules, or WILL try and get away with something given the idea to do so. You're better than this, so throwing out an immoral opportunity to break the rules in a public forum is advocation.

Rich

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Rich, where in the world did you come up with that logic? My statement had nothing to do with cheating. That is something you read into it. Maybe I was not clear enough so let me try again. I stated clearly that the modification is NOT LEGAL FOR PRODUCTION. The part that I consider debatable is whether or not the filled pin hole should be considered a visible modification. When done properly one cannot tell there was ever a hole there. The debate in not with you, but with the USPSA ruling. Sinced they ruled it is considered a visible/external modification that is OK with me.

I don't shoot Production, only Limited. It is perfectly legal there.

I think one of the CCF frames with a good trigger like this is all one needs to be competitive with the STI guns in Limited. I guess I should make one thing clear about CCF frames as there has been considerable debate over the canted slide issue I and others noticed. I seriously doubt the uneven frame rail problem is wide spread. How many? I don't know. I would not let that issue stop me from buying one of their frames. If you purchase it through Brownells and happen to get a bad one Brownells will take care of the problem - no questions asked. I certainly wish I had bought mine through Brownells.

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Thanks Joe, I had pieced together most of your hints. Like seeing it all in one place though.

Best, Rik

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Post self deleted due to poor choice of wording and attitude on my part. Apology extended to board for posting off subject. Also thanks to kahuna for pointing it out to me.

Rik

Edited by Rik

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Er... I'm pretty sure both Rich and Joe both know the rules pretty dang well. IMO this is a simple communication problem, common in electronic communication media such as this forum. If you do some searches you might find that both R & J are seasoned veterans with tons of knowledge that nubs like me crave. Recommend we keep the tone light so we don't get this thread shut down. I really appreciate the VERY valuable input both Rich and Joe make here.

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Very intreresting JoeD..You indicated there was more in the first post, when will we be worthy of it all, in one post?

I might have to try these mods myself!

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Hi Joe I think you mentioned somewhere in earlier posts that you could taylor length of pull to suit short or long trigger fingers if so would you care to share some tips ??

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...I think... ...I will have to... buy some spare OEM-parts... and... aggghhh... bring out the Dremel again. this looks fun!

:cheers:

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Yes you can adjust the release point for different size hands. It will be difficult to explain here. It involves putting the new trigger pad hole in slightly different positions depending on where you want it to release.

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Joe: I drilled the trigger bar last and will drill the trigger pad today. I will let you know what the trigger pull ends up being. Thanks, Eric

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That trigger bar is pretty hard isn't it. You have to use a good quality bit and turn it slowly to get through it. Remember the hole location on the pad is critical. It took me several attempts to get it right. Got a whole drawer full of ruined pads and bars.

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Joe: The bar drilled with no problem at all. I have drill bits that are older than me that belonged to my dad. Remember Joe I'm a Tool and Die maker (old school no CNC) and can sharpen drill bits ;-) I will play with the trigger pad hole location before I drill it. A dimension would be nice though ;-) Again, I want to thank you for all your help. Thanks, Eric

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