So You Want a Sub 2# Glock Trigger

[vluc]

New to Brian Enos and USPSA in general so forgive me if I'm off topic, but you folks seem like you know triggers...

I have been shooting a Glock 35 stock trigger group except for a lighter striker spring. Went bang every time.

I was having trouble with the trigger weight so I bought a Novak 2.0-2.5 # trigger kit from B&B. Shipping service was great and the trigger group looked fantastic. I'm no gunsmith by any stretch, but I dropped the whole package right in.

However, now I'm experiencing light strikes, with no changes in loads. Any ideas would be appreciated. I like the feel of the new trigger and would love to be able to make this thing work.

what primers are you using?

Winchester Small Pistol.

pm sent

[Big Lau]

Novak kit is advertised as all stock components, polished and modified to reduce weight to between 2 and 2.5 lbs consequently keeping the pkg GSSF legal. It appears to me that all components are polished at critical contact points but I'm not expert enough to be able to tell if any thing was bent, ground, or redrilled. When I hold it up against the stock it looks identical with regard to spring holes and contact point angles and trigger location.

I've got some Federal match primers ordered. I hope that's solves the problem but I'd still like to get it to hit the primers harder, if nothing else for peace of mind.

[atmar]

use a lightened steel striker.

[Big Lau]

Will do. Thanks for the reply. Ordering one from Glockworx this am... May just get the whole fulcrum setup for USPSA... Thanks again.

[WARDOG]

JoeD, any chance for those pics of trigger pads?

It would be very helpful,thanks in advance.

[jobob]

JoeD, any chance for those pics of trigger pads?

It would be very helpful,thanks in advance.

+1!

Also, Joe D. (great name btw!), you've mentioned you grind and change the contour of the nose of the trigger bar. In what fashion is the contour changed? Do you lengthen the curve? Shorten it? Straighten it? Any pics?

[WARDOG]

I drilled some other trigger pads, tricky..tricky work..

It seems that the distance from the original pin hole is somewhat .120, BUT..tolerances between slide and frame plays a big role in sear engagement, so I've screwed another trigger pad...

The quest goes on...

[kframe_mike]

I drilled some other trigger pads, tricky..tricky work..

It seems that the distance from the original pin hole is somewhat .120, BUT..tolerances between slide and frame plays a big role in sear engagement, so I've screwed another trigger pad...

The quest goes on...

You might still be OK.If you're lacking sear engagement,could you just bend the tab up on the trigger bar to get it back?Maybe there would be some surface angle change involved too.Do you have an orange or modified stock slide plate to see whats going on?-Mike

[WARDOG]

Sure I have the orange plate, problem is that you cannot bend the rear tab (sear) easily, that part is ultra-kryptonite hard, it's not like bending the trigger spring tab after annealing it.

If you bend the whole cruciform sear, you risk heavy drag and a heavier and grittier pull, defeting all purpose of the job.

Another problem is that if you go after a minimum sear engagement, the sum of tolerances and recoil lend to sear bounce, and doubling or tripling.

As I've said before, this trigger job thing is higly addictive. It's not like ruining 1911 parts, glock parts are cheap, you can experiment, however it's astonishing how glocks varies in tolerances between specimens.

A trigger job perfect in my g34 is horrendous in my g19. A doubling trigger in my g34 is perfect in my g19.

I'm not a gunsmith or an engineer, and I don't have gauges or micrometers to mesure things other than a digital caliper, so my feeble attempts are a guesswork.

However I'm satisfied that at least ONE trigger job is going wonderfully after 20.000 rds and 2.00 lbs pull!!!

Without this thread I would be stuck with 4.5lbs pull, and GRITTY!

[WARDOG]

Not to bother JoeD in any manner, but what about those trigger pad pics?

I'm like a crack addict...I know..

[Joe D]

Our camera died. Should have a new one for Christmas.

[G17Racing]

Hello to all fellow shooters and Glock "mechanics" on my arrival.

I am new to this forum but by no way to shooting Glocks.

Have been doing a lot of catching up with this topic and I must

say much respect goes out to JoeD, you really know your stuff man.

In my endeavors I have tried most of the mods discussed here, but not

the part about the trigger pads and altering the angle of the spring tab,

I have played with connector angles, rounded safety plungers, reduced/extra power

springs etc. tried it all but this ...at least not yet anyway.

I have in my G17:

1.Titanium striker

2.Titanium plunger modified and rounded

further along with a reduced spring

3.Red. Power striker spring

4.Extra power trigger spring

5.Ghost rocket 3.5

6.Pre travel stop (allen screw in trigger housing)

7.Modified and rounded the nose on the trigger (plunger area, newest mod)

7.Mirror polish

The catch is (and this may sound dumb) but I dont know how to test my trigger weight, correctly.

And i wanna try the trigger bar mod, both the trigger pad adjustment and the trigger spring tad adjustment

to see the effect on my pull weight.

Coming to think of it the trigger pad mod principle is exactly what GLOCKWORX is using as their FULCRUM trigger, no?

JoeD you are indeed the Master Glock Mechanic

JoeD some enlightment ask from you I must...

[Joe D]

I use a digital trigger scale - Lyman I think. I place the hook at the tip of the trigger pad. I would suggest changing a few items you are using. I much prefer the LWD connector or Glock over the Ghost. Use the stock trigger return spring. A lightweight Wolf for the striker spring.

Moving the hole location on the pad and trigger bar will yield the most improvement.

[G17Racing]

What does the LWD connectors offer over the Ghost, as I am using the Ghost for overtravel control as well.

Recommendations...?

Also the variences with the stock and extra power trigger return spring. As I was of the opinion that if I use

a more powerfull spring it would assist in pulling the trigger to the rear when pressed, thus reducing felt, perceived

pull weight.

Am I incorrect with this principle?

Oh and my striker spring is actually a lightweight Wolf spring.

If you can send some pics of the three trigger pads and their properties I can start tinkering once again.

Wanna try this mod badly as well as adjusting the trigger return spring tab and shaving/ reducing the curve

at the end of the trigger bar. Dont wanna make any mistakes as I'll follow your lead to the letter.

Any more info will be much appreciated...thanks again Joe D.

[memberonly]

I have been following this thread since the beginning and tried it out myself. All credit to Joe D. Thanks Joe for sharing this information with us.

Note: due to the different tolerance between each Glock, exact dimension won’t mean much from Glock A to Glock B. These pictures are only for visual reference. There will be lots of tries and errors but the end result is pretty amazing. It didn't make me a better shooter but it sure feels a lot better

1. new hole on the bar. This is an old design and it’s ~0.12” straight up from the old hole. The tip has been grinded down a bit so the trigger pad can rotate freely.

2. sear engagement. View from the back with back plate removed. Connector is visible to the right. I have not had any doubling with this amount of engagement.

3. Pre travel and striker safety engagement. Barrel removed and view from muzzle. The trigger tap just touched the safety. Pull the trigger all the way and pay attention to how much the safety moves up. Adjust your pre travel without disabling this safety feature (1st safety). Double check drop safety (2nd safety) as well. Also watch for the tap hitting the slide (small triangle area under extractor in this pic) just before return to battery. Check both trigger positions forward and rearward.

4. trigger in most forward position. Factory trigger pad hole is plugged and the new hole edge is barely visible in this picture. Trigger safety (3rd safety) has to be trimmed back. All 3 safeties are still functional.

5. trigger in most rearward position. 3 marks in the trigger guard is for forward, reset, and stop.

Edited November 20, 2008 by memberonly

[memberonly]

3 & 4

[Joe D]

Looks good to me. You should not have any doubling issues with that much engagement. I do grind off the excess material below the new hole in the TB.

[G17Racing]

Hey memberonly how far up the pad did you drill the hole?

And how does the pin stay in place in the new holes...epoxy?

Looks good, great pics...your trigger positions are very similar to mine but my

adjustments were done via hex screw; so just waiting to try it the right way.

Also Joe D please refer to my previous post...thanks.

[Joe D]

G17R, just use the pad location I posted on the first page. It is the best all around location. I don't use a trigger stop per say. The TB does not move very far once the striker releases.

There is nothing about a Ghost that I like. I will not install one.

There is no need for a stronger trigger spring. I can get a pull below 1 lb with the stock spring. I generally set my triggers in the 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 lb range. To go below that requires altering the TB nose. The pull is not as short and chrisp with the altered nose.

Bending the spring tab forward is the easiest way to adjust pre-travel.

[memberonly]

G17Racing,

With Joe's method, I didn't have any set screw using the location similar to the pic in the 1st page. This particular on is about 0.12" from its old location. Pre-travel is adjusted by bending the spring tab. I use a bit slightly undersized for the new hole so no epoxy is needed.

Hope this help

[WARDOG]

I drilled the trigger pad with a 2mm drill point, it did stay put no matter what.

[G17Racing]

"Houston we have a problem" ... I broke of my trigger spring tab while adjusting it, apparently it cooled way too fast and broke at the hole for the spring.

Recommendations, remedies...?

I tried drilling a new hole just above it; no luck I used a Dewalt titanium coated split point DW1304 bit and it just slid all over the place not even a dimple to show for it.

Joe, Wardog, ne body any suggestions... I was thinking of using one of the Dremel diamond tips to put in a new hole will this work before I go out and buy one.

I read previously that Joe mentioned something like that but he said a diamond wheel, clarification...

[Joe D]

A carbide bit will do the job. Just don't spin it too fast. 200 - 300 rpm is enough.

Edited November 25, 2008 by Joe D

[G17Racing]

Went out and got an ACE Cobalt 1/16" hard metal bit and a punch, before I saw your post.

Used the punch to make a divot and used the drill very slow; went straight through in about a minute.

So now I'm not that adamant about taking on the trigger pad now that I see how easy it is to drill through.

Thanks anyway Joe; you da man!

[hal1955]

I need a bit of advice. I did the trigger work as described above and drilled the trigger bar .140 up the leg, center to center from the old hole, and drilled the trigger pad as per JoeD's pic. It all works fine with the 5# glock connector but the trigger will not release when I use the LWD 3.5 # connector. I can reach in with a probe and release the trigger bar and the striker will fall, so that means that the trigger bar is not moving back far enough to release the striker. Any advice or comments?

Hmm......now I can see that the nose of the trigger bar is not behind the raised angled edge on the connector.....hmmmmm and I have the trigger safety removed so that is not what is hanging up......

Edited November 27, 2008 by hal1955