So You Want a Sub 2# Glock Trigger

[Aircooled6racer]

Joe: I figured it out. It is alot lighter trigger now. I going to play with the trigger pad hole location a little to see how light I can get it. Under 1 pound? Thanks, Eric

[Joe D]

Like I said it is a little tricky. Moving pin location on the pad has a profound effect on pull weight and striker release point. Moving it too far will not allow the striker to release. Too much in another direction will cause the gun to double. Make sure you check the trigger bar/striker engagement. Too little engagement is not good. You will get a little more engagement when you just rack the slide then pull the trigger than from when you hold the trigger back, rack the slide, then allow it to go forward and reset. Check both.

One other thing to check for is make sure the striker safety plunger "nub" on the trigger bar does not drag on the slide.

Remember with Glocks we are dealing with stamped parts.

[Aircooled6racer]

Joe: I found out that Glock has two different trigger assemblies. One has a light stamped rib and the other a harder stamped rib. I will check the trigger assemble tomorrow. Thanks, Eric

[Joe D]

Glock appears to have whittled their trigger bar suppliers down to two. At one time they had three.

[kevin c]

Interesting stuff.

Being more than a little mechanically inept, though, I'll pay others to do the job right the first time.

[cny025]

Thank you Joe.

[chp5]

Joe, Joe, Joe . . .

What's next - giving out the recipe to Coke?

Some things are better left a secret

[Joe D]

Here's how I bend the tab. Make certain you heat the bend before you try to bend it. Remember don't bend it too far forward as you will defeat the striker safety.

I will be posting details on how to get a Production legal sub 2# trigger soon. I really had not spent too much time working on this as I was more interested in just seeing how light I could get a Glock trigger. My best so far is 14 oz. I think I can go even lower, but there is really no need to.

The Production legal trigger that I worked on today is sitting at a little over 1 1/2 lbs. That is without using an extra power return spring. The only parts that are not Glock are the striker spring (Wolf), lwt. striker (Lightning Strike) and Lone Wolf connector.

[ess45]

Is the purpose of bending of the tab forward to create more tension on the spring? Thanks.

[ess45]

Is the purpose of bending of the tab forward to create more tension on the spring? Thanks.

In addition: If the answer is yes, can i still bend the tab if i am using an extra power spring?

[Joe D]

It puts more tension on the spring and limits forward travel of the trigger. I have never used an extra power return spring.

[jimmy1]

I have three different trigger pad "standards".

I've done this mod before and was successful but the trigger was to short for my liking and the other i made doubled. Can you post pics of your 3 standard pads and what their characteristics are, I would appreciated it very much.

Thanks, Jim

[Suburban Commando]

I have three different trigger pad "standards".

I've done this mod before and was successful but the trigger was to short for my liking and the other i made doubled. Can you post pics of your 3 standard pads and what their characteristics are, I would appreciated it very much.

Thanks, Jim

I'll nudge you in the right direction.

Two possible causes of doubling with a Glock:

- Not enough spring tension pulling the cruciform sear upward, holding it against the firing pin tang.

- Not enough cruciform sear/firing pin tang engagement. The short, orange slide cover plate is used to check engagement.

[Joe D]

I need to hold onto that bit of info. It would be difficult to show or explain. Sorrry.

[chp5]

Joe-

So you just bend the tab forward, but you don't redrill the spring hole in the tab?

[Joe D]

That is correct. I have not found that raising the hole helps lighten the pull.

BTW if you choose to raise the hole just use one of the thin diamond cutoff wheels for a Dremel. Cut a diagonal slot where you want the hole to be. Much easier than trying to drill one. Make about a 60 degree cut. That way the spring hook stays in place. Cutting it horizontal will allow the hook to slide to one side.

Edited August 27, 2007 by Joe D

[chp5]

That is correct. I have not found that raising the hole helps lighten the pull.

BTW if you choose to raise the hole just use one of the thin diamond cutoff wheels for a Dremel. Cut a diagonal slot where you want the hole to be. Much easier than trying to drill one. Make about a 60 degree cut. That way the spring hook stays in place. Cutting it horizontal will allow the hook to slide to one side.

Thanks. So you see no benefit to drilling the hole higher on the tab?

[Joe D]

I have not seen any benefit.

Edited August 28, 2007 by Joe D

[nphd2000]

I used the old cominoli (?) trigger for my production Glock for years. It has the repositioned pin and the edges were smoothed. After the production "ban" of exterior modified triggers I put the Cominoli trigger away now I just smooth all edges, the safety plunger pusher thingy and the bull nose at the back of the trigger bar, bend the spring tab and I skeletonize (?) the entire trigger bar (makes it lighter and it looks cool JMO). I stone all the flat contact areas and polish them as well. Works pretty good.

Edited August 28, 2007 by nphd2000

[chp5]

Joe - when heating the tab before bending, is a heat gun sufficient or is a torch required? Thx.

[Joe D]

You need to use a torch. Heat the tab to a dull red. Look at the picture I posted on how to do this. Angle the torch down so you don't heat the whole bar. Use the screwdriver to bend the tab out. I use an adjustable wrench to "adjust" the tab if I bent it too much.

If you don't use a vise there is a risk that you will also bend the tab up, not just forward. This can cause doubling.

[chp5]

Thanks Joe.

I vote to make this thread a sticky.

[glock10mmman]

You need to use a torch. Heat the tab to a dull red. Look at the picture I posted on how to do this. Angle the torch down so you don't heat the whole bar. Use the screwdriver to bend the tab out. I use an adjustable wrench to "adjust" the tab if I bent it too much.

If you don't use a vise there is a risk that you will also bend the tab up, not just forward. This can cause doubling.

How far out do I bend the tab? 90-100 degrees?

Thanks

g10

[Joe D]

I set mine up between .820" and .840". This is measured from the tip of the nose to the bottom of the tab - just below the trigger return spring hole.

Remember, too far forward will disable the striker safety. Do not disable any safety features.

[jobob]

Joe, mucho thanks for this info! I've been playing with Glock triggers for a few years. but haven't attempted this. So, I have a new winter project! I don't think my triggers are so bad that I need to jump into this today. Great info, though, that should give me many hours of frustration and (hopefully) victory this winter.

BTW, you said you like the Lightning Strike lightened steel firing pin. I bought one of those 3 or 4 years ago. After a couple of dry fires the nose of the pin broke off. Is this common, did I get a lemon, or was it a case of operator head space? That particular gun did the same thing with a Glock OEM firing pin too, so maybe it's something internal in the slide.