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Meopta Specific Questions?


dghboy315

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That's what you do to make a Docter brighter

On a side note, I used my Meopta for the first time 3-gunning last weekend, it was a very very sunny & hot day, and I thought the illuminated reticle was plenty bright.

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I don't think the reticle needs to be any brighter either.

But the 2032's didn't work well sliding around. The illumination will cut off momentarily during recoil as the battery shifts around. I had to cut thin strips of duct tape and wrap the tape around the edge of the battery to make it wider. Not the best fix, in my opinion.

Meopta should have made and include a little plastic ring to fit around the 2032s and make them fit the battery compartment.

Otherwise, no complaints about my Meopta, so far.

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I'll be putting my Meopta (non-illuminated, duplex crosshair) on my POF, to replace my Accupoint. The Trijicon is going back to the factory. I tested it a little better at the range yesterday and there is about 2 - 4 inches of parallax at 100 yards. On a 400 yard target it look like the reticle would move a good 6 or 8 inches. No wonder my hits have been 'iffy' on the long shots! Also, the 1/4" adjustments seem to be more like 1"! Not what I would expect from a company like Trijicon. Hope they have good customer service! :unsure:

Edited by jobob
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I don't really "zero" my rifle. I set it up to shoot +1.5" @ 100 yards with 55 FMJBT Winchesters or +2" @ 100 yards with 69 Noslers. Or at lease as close to those figures as I can.

With the Meopta you have a reference point out to 400 yards with the above settings.

With 55's I think:

DOT as reference... 0-325 ish yards

POST as reference... 325+ yards

0-25 yards: Dot at TOP of target.

25-250 yards: Dot at CENTER of target.

275 yards: High 8 ball.

300 yards: Dot's center at the TOP OF TARGET.

(transition to top of POST as reference)

325 yards: Outside lollipop or 6 O'Clock hold.

350 yards: Inserted lollipop.

400 yards: Post at top of target.

I'm very visual so I did these graphical representations.

55_Win__1.5_inches.pdf

69_Nosler__2_inches.pdf

Are these hold-over's at 4x? or are some of them at 1x?

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They are for 4X.

You can get away with a center hold up to say 250 with a 1X hold since the POI doesn't really differ from the center of the dot for most targets that we normally see.

The biggest problem at distance at 1X is that the circle is about 8MOA and will cover most targets making it hard to index.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I'm kindof new to scopes in general and purchased a used Meopta from the classifieds. Looks like it's an earlier model w/ 1/2 MOA adjustments.

I have a paralax question. I read the FAQ at the top of the page to try and see if i have parallax. 1st, I adjusted the eypiece as per FAQ article instructions by setting it all the way out, look at sky w/ eyes relaxed, move scope in front of eye and adjust 'til the crosshairs are just black and clear.

Then, I set the scope on a table and look at something far far away ~ 1/2 mile for me. And I'm not sure, but it seems when I move my head, the recital moves slightly. . . well, actually, there's a bit of lens distortion and i can't completely tell if it's my brain playing tricks on me because the recital lines "bend" a bit when I move my head. Also it seems to me from reading the article that it's physically impossible to have 0 parallax at all distances, and the Meopta doesn't have parallax adjustment. . . . or does it?

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Meopta is set to be parallax free @ 100 yds. Check there first. Make sure your rifle is sandbagged and that you're not touching the rifle as you move your head.

1/2 mile is WAY outside the bounds of reasonability and just by definition, you're going to have parallax at that distance. This isn't just a property of the Meopta, it's of ALL telescopic sights. And there is no (user adjustable) parallax correction on the Meopta. Either it's right or it's wrong from the factory.

No clue on the reticle distortion. It actually might be a distortion in *your* vision.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I switched to the Meopta K-dot from the Eotech this year. The Meopta rocks!

From bright snows days to cloudy days it has not washed out.

I like the eotech better from 1-30 yds probably 10% faster. The meopta really makes the difference past 150 yds.

Real clear glass for the money. The reticle is great for 3gun 200 -350 yd targets.

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I've been using the Meopta with the Z-Plex (duplex cross hairs) on my POF for a couple of months now, and it's working great. I think I prefer the cross hairs to a red dot on the long shots, and I don't think it's any slower on the close ones.

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I duracoated mine to try to be tacti-cool. . . but it's a California legal configuration, so it's never going to be really really tacti-cool. It'll be more weird than cool. I guess I'm never going to be able to sell the scope :cheers: Thanks for all the tips. I bought the scope/mount used on the classifieds here, and it's worked out real well. I figure it's better to buy the right one the 1st time. Now I have to learn how to shoot straight.

I could have used the SPR mount instead of the SPR-E mount that I have because the scope is pushed all the way back on account of the weird stock, but it works, and it's not like I can trade the mount now :)

RifleClassKeepers-28.jpg

Edited by chunger
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I don't really "zero" my rifle. I set it up to shoot +1.5" @ 100 yards with 55 FMJBT Winchesters or +2" @ 100 yards with 69 Noslers. Or at lease as close to those figures as I can.

With the Meopta you have a reference point out to 400 yards with the above settings.

With 55's I think:

DOT as reference... 0-325 ish yards

POST as reference... 325+ yards

0-25 yards: Dot at TOP of target.

25-250 yards: Dot at CENTER of target.

275 yards: High 8 ball.

300 yards: Dot's center at the TOP OF TARGET.

(transition to top of POST as reference)

325 yards: Outside lollipop or 6 O'Clock hold.

350 yards: Inserted lollipop.

400 yards: Post at top of target.

I'm very visual so I did these graphical representations.

55_Win__1.5_inches.pdf

69_Nosler__2_inches.pdf

Religious Shooter,

Thanks for posting that. I like the 2" high at 100y zero. Do you know a more precise holdover at 25y (or meters)? I have easy access to a 25m range and would like to use that range to get it zeroed as close as possible. Mine's going to be a bit different, as I have the taller Larue 1.93 mount (and shorter barrel, and different twist, and 77 grain bullets), but any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Leozinho

Edited by Leozinho
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Thanks for posting that. I like the 2" high at 100y zero. Do you know a more precise holdover at 25y (or meters)? I have easy access to a 25m range and would like to use that range to get it zeroed as close as possible. Mine's going to be a bit different, as I have the taller Larue 1.93 mount (and shorter barrel, and different twist, and 77 grain bullets), but any help would be appreciated.

+2"@100 yards (@ 2843 fps) with 69 CC Noslers the predicted drop I have @ 25 yards is ~-1".

+1.5"@100 yards (@ 3176 fps) with 55 Wins the predicted drop I have @ 25 yards is ~1.3".

YMMV

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FWIW, Just a data point on this scope and a failure, first I love the scope, mine is the kdot, but it went 100% tits up at a rifle match at the end of September. The rifle was an AR in .223 and it was mounted with a LaRue SPR. This was a 100 round tac rifle match run basically under USPSA rules in Central AL (Steel City club). Next to last stage, the optic became a complete blur and I had to point shoot my way through half of a stage, then it suddenly came back into focus for a few shots, then a blur again for the rest of the stage.

At the end of the stage I looked and it was clear again, so I tried to go ahead and shoot the next and final stage, then 4 or 5 rounds into the stage it did it again and never came back from the complete blur...illuminated reticle never went out but it was like trying to shoot an old Armson OEG from that point on because you could make out nothing through the optic itself...quite comical trying to take a bunch of 6" plates at 40 yards with that mode.

I called Meopta USA on Monday, they said it was likely a loose internal optic, a prism or something, the failure I described and symptoms were familiar to the gentleman I spoke with. They had it by 10/1 up in Hauppage, NY. I received a brand new replacement this morning. So about 4 weeks door to door on the replacement.

I still plan to use this scope exclusively on my 3-gun rifles, great scope, if yours goes out they will replace it, but this experience tells me the process may take a month. I do have serious questions about durability based on this experience. Like any scope, there are some lemons, hope that is all this was.

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Sounds like we need to have some type of evaluation where the scopes get disassembled. It would be nice to know just what price point I need to pay in order to get a 100% scope.

Your out of luck...even S&B's break. :blink:

Edited by HiCapMag
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I wonder if you guys are starting to see why I still shoot iron sights! :D

I have seen them ALL break. ACOGS, Zeiss, Leopold, Night Force, U.S. Optics, etc. No 100% here, nor in iron, except for solid fixed sigts on pistols, HOWEVER I have seen FAR FEWER iron sight troubles than optic troubles! and usually they are operator error not a piece just suddenly "letting go". With that in mind I have neve had trouble with either TA-11 I own nor My Meopta, both My Leopolds have been great, M3 and a VariX 2. I think If you buy a good quality scope it probably will be a good one, if not you will tend to know right away! KURTM

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Eric,

the gears that control lense movements in variable power scopes get a lot more usage (going from 1 to 4, vice versa) in competition than in plinking or hunting. Due to that, they tend to wear or break faster than in other use. I have seen it in other product lines when a scope was first used extensively in 3-gunning. Once it becomes a trend, the company usually beefs up the strength of the metal in the gearing to prevent future problems. And in a lot of the cheaper $100 - $200 "wonder" scopes, nylon gears are used, which is why they fail much faster. Fixed power scopes have a lot less gearing, so they have fewer moveable parts to fail.

No matter the pricing, any scope can and will fail. The length of life depends upon the quality of the parts used and how it is treated. Bumping a scope today can cause a lense to slip out of its channel 2 months from now. There aren't any that are failure proof.

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  • 2 weeks later...

For those thinking about buying one of these 1-4 illuminated K-dot scopes, www.sportsmansguide.com is a Meopta dealer (sort of). They will have the scopes shipped from the factory on your behalf. Took about three weeks for mine to show up...for $665.

Interesting, though, that the invoice from Meopta was for $515 ;)

Alex

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I too drank the Meopta Koolaid, and am glad I did. Got it in a Larue LT-104, so the objective bell sits just above the folding rear sight. Glass is good, Reticle is perfect. Finally got it leveled, my eyes are not level.

I find the sight picture is a lot bigger and clearer than an Aimpoint. Other than the Aimpoint is paralax free and its batteries last a lot longer, prefer the Meopta.

Found 2354 batteries in stock at the local Interstate Battery shop, under their own label. They were about $4, but no shipping, credit card thieves, etc, just cash and carry.

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