Ccf Raceframe

[Sunuva]

Just got mine together, Man what a nice trigger I love it.

[Glockster35]

Pictures fellas, pictures!

[Carlos]

Saw one in action over the weekend - zero malfunctions. Apparently the way the pins are installed & removed is very important (unlike polymer). Instant trigger job confirmed.

[eric nielsen]

Got my 'real' magwell installed. It's not that difficult to take the bottom of the frame from 1.250" [only at its fattest point - the CCF is not parallel on the bottom] to the normal dimension of 1.150 and parallel. You can do it with a Dremel, files, and emory cloth if you want. If you use the Glock grip adapter, you will have to remove some of the rubber - look at the shape of the plastic OEM frame & you will see where the adapter is wider. Don't round off the front [like me] until you are SURE you need to do that - fit it without the adapter for starters.

Shot it yesterday after our match, side-by-side with another shooter's Edge. Both of us thought that the CCF flips less but kicks harder than the Edge. Which is odd because they are about the same weight. Maybe the CCF kicks harder because it flips less, also no frame flex.

Sandro shot my gun also, he can give you his opinion. I know my original plan to dress this gun up, dial it in, and then sell it to finance a Fat Free is now up in the air. This is a very competitive Ltd gun right now. May be in part because of my recoil 'system' that took a lot of thought:

This is a factory plastic rod, cap removed, factory 17 or 18lb spring, reduced diameter on the coils, probably at 15lb right now. 2 different faucet washers cut the slide travel - intentionally putting the spring at full compression to [barely] stop the slide from hitting the frame. I've been told this is okay with G34/35 or G17L/24 slides, not a good idea with G17 or G22 slides - you could crack the front of the slide right off.

I was gonna use a 15lb ISMI but it is at full compression & more without any buffers at all, in fact the slide barely locks back and the coils bind on the takedown lever, so no ISMI for now. You really want to look for this if you shoot a G17/22. In any case, my gun shoots very sweet with the setup in the photos.

Edited August 7, 2007 by eric nielsen

[Sandro]

I shot this gun yesterday and it was soft shooting. I think the gun being front heavy like the edge does help with recoil. What amazed me most was how easy it was to track and how soft it was.

Sandro

[Joe D]

I have not had a chance to fire mine yet, but one thing I did notice dry firing. The checkering is too sharp for my tastes. Does not hurt my hand but it locks it in place. If I don't get the perfect draw it is difficult to shift the gun. I knocked the tips off the checkering and rounded the outside row on both sides. Gun is much more comfortable now. If my grip is slightly off it is not a big deal to shift the gun a bit.

Glocks tend to recoil straight back rather than flip like a 1911 does. IMO this is good.

Edited August 7, 2007 by Joe D

[GlockSpeed31]

Eric,

Very nice looking setup there. You guys are KILLING me, showing me new stuff for my toys! I need a 2nd job to afford my habit.

[Sunuva]

Here is mine, now what color to duracoat on the frame

Edited August 7, 2007 by Sunuva

[Sunuva]

I have not had a chance to fire mine yet, but one thing I did notice dry firing. The checkering is too sharp for my tastes. Does not hurt my hand but it locks it in place. If I don't get the perfect draw it is difficult to shift the gun. I knocked the tips off the checkering and rounded the outside row on both sides. Gun is much more comfortable now. If my grip is slightly off it is not a big deal to shift the gun a bit.

Glocks tend to recoil straight back rather than flip like a 1911 does. IMO this is good.

I know what you’re saying, been doing some dryfiring strong hand tonight I will be putting some grip tape on tomorrow.

Robert

[Coolduckboy]

I wonder if there is anyway they can make one that is a full dust cover. like an STI edge?

[Joe D]

You can do anything with enough investment. I don't like the extreme nose heavy feel of an Edge.

[rpmwfo]

Got my 'real' magwell installed. It's not that difficult to take the bottom of the frame from 1.250" [only at its fattest point - the CCF is not parallel on the bottom] to the normal dimension of 1.150 and parallel. You can do it with a Dremel, files, and emory cloth if you want. If you use the Glock grip adapter, you will have to remove some of the rubber - look at the shape of the plastic OEM frame & you will see where the adapter is wider. Don't round off the front [like me] until you are SURE you need to do that - fit it without the adapter for starters.

What did you use to bond the magwell to the frame?

[eric nielsen]

Red Loctite, #271. It likes to seep out so you want to wipe the frame with alcohol & paper towel once in a while.

There are more "rubbery" glues out there but they have the disadvantage of filling gaps even where you don't want a gap. If I had any black acra-glass, I would use that to fill the gap in front of the frame. Since I don't, I'm probably going to use black GE Silicone II.

Again, you want to fit the magwell with the backstrap insert OFF of the frame. I had to round off the back corners of the steel frame to get the well as far forward as I wanted it. Then I marked the flat part of the magwell against the frame with a Sharpie, removed the magwell, and shaped the bottom of the grip insert to fit within the marks.

Took a small amount of rubber off the back of the insert so now this Heavy35 has the same point as my STI with Wedge MS housing. This points way higher than a standard 1911. I can do mag changes with one gun, then the other and the sights point at the same spot.

I did NOT need to round the front of the frame, that was a mistake based on me not taking the insert off first.

Once I had the magwell [just the aluminum part] on & the Loctite had cured about an hour, I looked at the brass adapter that comes with the Ice: the angle the bottom screw goes into it. I matched that angle and drilled a hole in the rubber insert, then threaded that adapter screw in there. Kindof a pain in the butt since the hole keeps closing down smaller than you drilled it. Once the screw was in there snug, I set the frame upside-down on its rails to cure for 24 hours.

PS - Don't think this gun needs a full dust-cover. It already balances similar to an Edge, and it's bore is much lower. Very easy to track the sights and the flip is a joke - there is almost none.

Edited August 8, 2007 by eric nielsen

[rpmwfo]

Did you end up doing anything to the right side frame rail where it hit the trigger bar?

[eric nielsen]

Dremel, emory cloth, Slide Glide.

[Joe D]

I got a chance to shoot mine today. I shot it with a G34 and G35 top end. There is no sight movement with the G34. The front sight just stays on target. Shooting the G35 top end with some 180 gr 170 pf loads revealed some interesting things. I tried 3 different spring weights - 13, 15 and 17. All were shortened 2-3 coils. The 15 felt the best followed by the 17. This gun is very flat shooting. There was very little front sight movement with the 170 pf loads.

IMO it is just as easy to shoot as my old .40 STI. There is actually less muzzle flip with the CCF than the STI. Add a mag well and you have a gun that is just as competitive as the STI. BTW don't let anyone tell you that you can't get a good trigger with a Glock. I figure a crisp 16 oz. Glock trigger is good enough.

This new dog may hunt. Time will tell.

Edited August 9, 2007 by Joe D

[ormondopen]

received my frame yesterday and started to build my 35 on it, ran into a problem with the kkm barrel lug not passing over the locking block. my 17 and 34 with stock barrels built just fine.

any suggestions other than going back to a stock barrel?

Edited August 9, 2007 by ormondopen

[Joe D]

I stuck 2 LWD and 1 Federal barrel in mine to see if they would function. No problems with any of them.

[Flexmoney]

received my frame yesterday and started to build my 35 on it, ran into a problem with the kkm barrel lug not passing over the locking block. my 17 and 34 with stock barrels built just fine.

any suggestions other than going back to a stock barrel?

Is it the lug, for sure? Take a look at this thread and take some measurements...

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=50468

[rpmwfo]

I have a Caspian G35 slide that I am using with a KKM barrel on my CCF SS frame. The KKM barrel cycles and fires fine. I was concerned with what appeared to be minor peening on the locking block and the barrel. The peening was not consistent with the pattern shown in the link above. There was metal displacement on the top surface of the locking block, but the gun functioned fine. Definitely no binding. So far I have only about 500 rds. through the combo.

When I get home again, I will measure up a stock barrel and the KKM.

As for the Caspian slide- I am unimpressed. Had to clean up the extractor slot so the extractor would move freely. Had to open up the safety plunger hole(plunger would not move freely). No debris hole as previously mentioned. One other item- it appears the hole in the breachface and/or the breachface dimensions for the striker are not quite right. I don't have as much striker tip protrusion on the Caspian slide. I have had a few light strikes that I attribute to the slide issues(I am running a lightened striker). Hopefully Lone Wolf will get the slides right.

Eric- care to share more info on your recoil setup? Length of your washer stack? How did you determine the stack size? I like your idea a lot more than the supplied buffer setup.

[Joe D]

I had to send my frame back today. I am sure they will do the right thing and replace it.

[Kingman]

I am following this despite not shooting glocks, but am interested in this. Why did you have to send it back.

[Joe D]

I had rather not say at this time. The ball is in their court. I feel like they will do the right thing.

[ormondopen]

I stuck 2 LWD and 1 Federal barrel in mine to see if they would function. No problems with any of them.

when I try to put the slide w/ KKM barrel onto the frame the upper binds right after the the take down bar. when I remove the slide there are small gouges on the block.

[Sunuva]

This is off CCF's web page.

A number of aftermarket makers, looking for the same resulting greater accuracy, cut their barrels’ lugs slightly oversized to achieve the same tighter lockup as our raised lock block bridge. However, combining the aftermarket barrel with our lock block, without proper fitting and clearance confirmation, can easily cause your barrel to shear a lug or damage the lock block in your frame! That aftermarket barrel, just because it functioned with your Glock® frame, does not mean it will in your CCF RaceFrame. It could easily appear to clear the lock block in our frame, but cause damage to your new frame over a period of time or a number of shots. We recommend you contact the manufacturer of those components for confirmation of use, applicability and support. If uncertain, DO NOT USE IT WITHOUT HAVING SOMEONE QUALIFIED TO CONFIRM IT’S USE!